It was love for food and the desire to overcome all odds to indulge in it that prompted Naini Setalvad to shed weight. She was a shocking 160 kilos which, with determination, she brought down to a mere 60. As a result of which not only has she become a nutritionist today, but she also understands the business of food from a different angle. Coming from a family of foodies, Naini is proud to say that she has always eaten the choicest of foods made at home. And now, here she was, getting all set to share some unique dishes with UpperCrust.

It can�t get any tangier than the Raw Mango Spicy Vegetable Pickle.

�These are time tested recipes handed down from my grandmother,� she starts. �And to go with it all, we always had a huge variety of pickles and chutneys. I loved them. In fact, I was always either dipping into the pickle jars at home or gorging on those sold outside my school,� she reminisces.

A self-confessed junk food eater, Naini would consume all kinds of rich foods, without a thought, until she realised one day that she just had to stop and turn the clock around. �You can say that it was the pickles that did it,� laughs Naini. �I wanted to eat them as I grew up on them and they had become a part and parcel of me. But as my weight grew to alarming proportions I realised I could no longer afford to do so. I mulled over the idea of eating these pickles without oil and began to think of ways of re-doing these traditional recipes without oil and white sugar, which are the real culprits.�

Mango Kairi in Methia Masala with ghee and khichdi makes for a delicious combination.

Today, Naini�s signature pickles and and drinks are so sought after that dinner guests at the Setalvad home at Napean Sea Road ask for all the varieties to be served! Whether it is the Aam Panna, Spicy Mango Pickle, Mango Dahi Raita or the sweeter Chhoonda variety. �Each is unique with its own distinct flavour,� Naini adds. �I�ve had a penchant for cooking since childhood and just watching my grandmother and mother was, I guess, a great learning experience.�

Ask her if she has any cook books that she swears by and she disapproves. �I don�t follow any recipe to the T, but I go by my instinct and just improvise as I go along.�

Raw Mango Raita that goes well with vegetarian and non-vegetarian gravies.

�To tell you the truth,� continues Naini, �it�s quite simply the smell and taste of a sweet-sour kairi or raw mango that drives me mad. I think nothing else tingles the taste buds quite like it. It made me think that there has to be some nutritional benefit to the fruit and so I delved into the study of the fruit. I found it has a high nutritive value as it�s packed with vitamin C. It fights the heat, keeps the colds and sinuses at bay, is good for constipation and nausea. In fact, during summer there�s no reason why one should not eat a raw mango everyday, and there are so many different varieties to choose from too! I eat raw mangoes during the entire season, which is from April till July.�

Jaggery and Mango Pickle makes a sweet delight.

It�s easy to see that Naini�s home d�cor reflects the persona of its mistress . Vibrant and warm, it suggests all the mannerisms of a woman on the go. Naini points out her consulting room which is a brightly lit area just as you enter the house. You can�t help admiring a pretty Japanese corner in the hall with a laughing Buddha and delicate frames that bear good tidings. An expansive open verandah has an antique cane armchair and is one of Naini�s favourite spaces where she plans her day. �I love dinner parties and having guests over and if given the chance, I�d do so all the time. But with a busy schedule it�s just not possible,� she regrets.

Red hot: The Spicy Mango Chutney!

As she leads you into her well-stocked kitchen, you see that it is full of goodies. �I love to buy fresh organic spices and herbs. From mustard to turmeric, to pepper, saffron, basil and parsley - you�ll find it all in my kitchen. There�s also a load of fresh vegetables and fruits that I get from my weekly trip to the Grant Road and Breach Candy bazaars. You know, I also like to chat with the vendors and if I don�t go to the market for too long I miss that,� she admits with a twinkle in her eye. Among other essentials, the cabinet has beautiful bowls and other china - all bought by Naini on her trips abroad.

Mango Curry, a la Naini, tempered with the right amount of cumin and curry leaves.

Tall French windows let in the natural light as she hustles about adding finishing touches to a platter of freshly prepared Mango Kairi in Methia Masala. �Every true Gujarati house is sure to have its own recipe for this masala,� says Naini. �Just mix the pickle in your rice or khichdi, add a little ghee and the end result is amazing.� The Raw Mango Dahi Raita, I learn, goes very well with spicy vegetarian as well as meat gravies, due to its alkaline content, the dahi raita neutralizes the acidic content present in the meat. That�s good news for the health conscious!

In addition, a simple cold glass of Mango Panha or Bafla, which is delicately spiced with raw mango and mint can be absolutely invigorating and Naini explains, ideal to fight sunstrokes. �It�s a perfect summer coolant, the pudina (mint) and zeera (cumin) in it being excellent digestives�.

Great thirst quencher: The refreshing Mango Panha.

The best part is that Naini�s pickles are made with just one teaspoon of oil, denouncing the concept that using a large quantity of oil is an integral part of the pickle making process. �I�m also a strong advocate of organic food - from the haldi (turmeric) and red chilli powder, to the zeera and methi (fenugreek), everything I use is from certified organic brands,� she adds.

Naini also believes that certain foods work best only in their appropriate season. While summer is the time for mango pickle, �Come winter and it�s time for turnip, cauliflower and lots of ginger and garlic. Unfortunately today, most people have forgotten the traditional way of eating with the season and cooking vegetables that are climatically suitable. Adding to diet woes, she says, are processed foods that are on all the supermaket shelves today. It�s important to realise that the old fashioned way of eating as per the season is ideal for one�s system. For example, eating mango pickle will not have the same effect on your system as it would in summer,� she explains.

For a lady who loves food, swears by it, constantly re-invents it and offers the best advice on it, every day poses a new challenge and takes on a new meaning. �My day starts at 5: 45 am with a brisk walk and yoga. Breakfast is a light affair, consisting mostly of fruits or bread. At times there will also be south Indian snacks like upma, poha or saboodana. I also love having dry fruits and tender coconut kernel. Then it�s non-stop work. �We always have a full-on Gujju traditional lunch with kachumbar, pickles, curds, rotis and dal - the works! The important thing is to eat right and in moderation,� she advises.

With diet consultation taking up most of her time, Naini admits that it�s tough to cook full-time. She however supervises all the meals and often, from just the smell and flavour of the food, can tell what ingredients are missing, if any.

While some people love to shop for shoes or clothes, Naini keeps her eye out for books on cuisine - you�ll find them all around her home. Her other love is travelling all over India and abroad, which gives her a chance to sample a variety of food. �Whenever I go out of town I make it a point to try the local food. Do you know that you get the best vegetables in Ahmedabad during the winter?� she informs. �Also, I have had the most exotic salads in Switzerland. Lettuces, avocados, baby carrots and artichokes - saut�ed to the right degree of crispness.�