Pine N Peak

And Peace on the River

Pahalgam evokes a sense of serenity. You are, after all, in the heart of nature in one of the world’s most tranquil spots. And Welcom’s Pine N Peak hotel, with the charming Lidder, flowing alongside is just perfect

Text & Photographs: Farzana Contractor

There are some hotels where you don’t feel the need to get out of the gates, once you have got in. WelcomHotel Pine N Peak is one such. It’s got such an aura of calm and peace and quietude, all you want to do is stay put. Sink into the cushioned sofa in your verandah, take deep breaths and just sigh.

For me, it was like being in heaven. Bombay and its bustling life was a far cry and I was happy to not think, just be. And look at the world around, through dense pine branches, which for the time being was only the river flowing by, the lovely Lidder.

My room, in an independent cottage with a total of three bedrooms and a sitting room with an equipped pantry was tastefully designed. If you are travelling with family, as I was, this set-up is perfect. Nice and cosy, on two levels, all under one roof; separate, yet together. That there was a jacuzzi in the master bathroom also helped. What more could I want, I asked myself as I soaked in the tub, watching the monkey watch me, as it sat placidly on the pine tree just outside the huge picture window. Hmm…

Welcom Pine N Peak is an ITC run hotel. And it shows. The staff is courteous and the service impeccable. The overall feel is old-world charm meets modern standards of luxury and comfort. Just what Pahalgam needed and didn’t have right until a year ago, which is when the ITC association began.

Well, this hotel, known as Senator Pine N Peak formerly, has been around since decades, run successfully by a trustworthy team of people who have served the owners, the Burza family, with love and loyalty, some for over 30 years. Why then would they want to tie up with a chain? Not that I am complaining, I like the culture of ITC hotels…

I find my answer through Asif Burza, the young and congenial owner, whose baby the hotel is and who considers the real worth of his hotel in terms of the age-old trees on the premises, the river flowing by, not its real estate value. “You know, it is a fact that when we signed with ITC in 2012 we were at the peak of our success. Guests loved our hotel and we were not short of custom. But for me, I was travelling in the country and abroad, and seeing how top professional hotels were being run. I wanted to bring that kind of standard into this part of the world. I wanted to expose my staff to that kind of culture and who better than ITC? I am very thankful that we associated ourselves with such fantastic people, who run such a fantastic chain. Mr Nakul Anand, Mr Puri and of course Mr Dipak Haksar who is such a fine gentleman, from whom I have learnt so much. We share a relationship which goes beyond owner and a brand.”

It took Pine N Peak four long years to spruce up, renovate, refurbish come in line with the ITC requirements, all with stunning results. However and more important is the fact that every old staff member was retained. They were re-trained, re-educated and re-incorporated in the new scheme of affairs. Either on the premises or by being posted to other  properties in the ITC chain. “Of course, it could not be another way. Why, I remember Nasir here when I was two or three years old.” says Asif. Nasir being the manager from yore, who sweetly walks around the premises, offering info and guidance to anyone seeking it.

The General Manager, Roop Pandita is as polished as ITC managers go. What is really nice is that he is a Kashmiri, a Pandit, who returned ‘home’. He opted for this post once the opening showed up. “Oh you can’t imagine how happy I was to return to my soil. I literally wept when I came here. It was that emotional. There was no way I was going to miss the opportunity of coming to work at an ITC hotel in Kashmir. It’s like a dream come true.”

One can get goose pimples engaging in such a conversation. And I was so happy for Pandita that I found myself saying to him, the next thing he should do is build himself a house and get his family here. “Hopefully!” he beamed.

Well, it’s not just the manager or the general manager or Asif Burza that I found to be wonderful people, but quite literally the entire staff. Their smiles were not plastic and they truly wanted to assist, be of help.  Not in the 5-star manner of trained courtesy, but genuinely so. Whether you talked to them about the food you wanted to eat, the market you wanted to visit, car you needed to rent to go visiting the local sites. They were totally at ease, making suggestions with simplicity and sincerity.

There are 80 rooms on the premises but you couldn’t say there were that many. The dense pines act as privacy shields. Rooms are in three categories; deluxe, suites and the cottages. The décor is tasteful, with common areas displaying with pride, the art and craft of Kashmir; walnut wood carvings, papier-mâché, embroidered velvet bed runners, cotton curtains with bold needlework in wool threads.

Which reminds me, the little in-house gift shop at Welcom Pine N Peak has some exquisite things, at only very marginal increase in prices from local bazaar shopping. But the quality difference is immense. Worth taking a look. I came away with papier-mâché hangings which I plan to pin on my Christmas tree this year.

The lawn runs parallel to the river and sitting out there under one of the arbours is a pleasant experience. You have come to Pahalgam, after all, to just sit still in the lap of nature and wind down. This is the best spot. And if you sit still long enough, eyes closed, you will hear the river sing, no kidding.

But for those who are dictated by other sounds, like the rumblings in the stomach, let me give you some good news; the food at Pine N Peak is to die for. All of it. By which I mean all the cuisines, not just Kashmiri. Though I have to state, the Rogan Josh I ate here is among the best ever that I have eaten anywhere, within or without Kashmir.

So the kitchen, which is efficiently run by Executive Chef Anil Kumar has separate teams for Indian, Chinese and Italian. And since all meals of mine were here, I had the opportunity to try all of them. The Kashmiri gets full marks. For mutton eaters, the chunky pieces of Tabak Maaz would send them reeling to heaven. As for trout, which you get 100% fresh in Pahalgam, I ate on three occasions, loved it. Once it was just lightly spiced and deep fried. Different. Nice. When fish is fresh, you need to do very little to it. What was really interesting though was the way the Chinese chef cooked up the lotus stem. Tossed in sweet and sour sauce, it came crunchy and was simply delicious. They can spoil you silly at tea time. The most amazing pizzas, the most amazing sandwiches; grilled chicken, oozing with cheese… ah, paradise!

I can’t get off the subject of food without telling you how amazing the kahwa served here, is. Now you may say, why should there be a difference, a kahwa is a kahwa. But no. Whether it was the quality of the saffron, the quantity used, or the finely cut almond, or the timing of the brew, search me. All I know is I loved it. And every night, after dinner, a pot of it was brought to the room while we were shrieking and laughing playing a silly card game I had just been taught, called Good Morning Ma’am.

Pahalgam sure did regress us into our happy childhoods!