Avatara

Everything on Sheikh Zayed Road is larger-than-life. If you look down from Voco Hotel’s top floors, you will think you’re in an episode of The Jetsons with the swanky new Museum of the Future transporting you light years ahead. Gastronomically, Avatara that sits on the second floor of the same hotel, is just as large in its delivery, its service and its creativity. Albeit it transports you back in time, to the roots of Indian ingredients and simple flavours reincarnated for the vegetarian soul. Soulful Indian food, that’s Avatara.

Trust us when we tell you to keep your stomachs ready for the delightful onslaught of food that belies its portion size. A little really goes a long way at Avatara where Chef Rahul Rana creates magic in his kitchen and at your table. The Olive & Indigo import, from Delhi, has been at the front of this Michelin Guide restaurant for a while now as its Executive Chef. He brings all that he has imbibed from his six years in Dubai to the fine-dining vegetarian, 16-course affair that is Avatara. This sets them apart. His creativity equally so.

“I use the least favourite ingredients in the dishes you see before you,” smiles the young chef, “those which people might not expect at a fine-dine. It’s pure vegetarian, no meat substitutes (a vegan menu is at your service as well), no paneer, no onion, no garlic, no mushrooms.” That leaves us with what exactly? You would be surprised. Among our favourites were the Naivedhya – a holy offering to start your meal off on a sweet note – with makhan malai, panchamrut and mishri; and the Kaurvelvilas – yes, karela (bitter gourd) ghee-roasted served with mango sambhar gelato in a dosai crisp flower. Pretty, and a burst of flavour. The root chips with a tempered chana mash and pomegranate chutney is the perfect snack, one that can keep you munching away. So, be aware, for the array that makes its way to you must be done justice. The chef and his team have laboured and how!

The presentation of the food and drink sets the mood for any discerning diner. Fret not at Avatara, they’ve got you covered. The Petal Drop is a gimmicky cocktail with Hendricks infused with rose petals, spice syrup and peppercorn bitters jazzed up with flavoured smoke and a machine gun petal dropped on top. Keeping it simple, you could hold your Lady in Love with the lemon grass-macerated Ciroc Vodka served with elderflower, apple juice and Perrier sparkling. Sip slowly as the Dal Vada with Carrot Kanji and Black Lemon Pickle and the Momo with Sea Buckthorn Thukpa and Black Rice Crisp. This one’s made of jackfruit, mind you, distinctive in its taste so you know what you’re biting into. We’re not sure how we feel about a bhel made of strawberries with passion fruit and guava added in, so we’re going to leave that to you.

Game-changers are the dessert, we must concur. Madhuram presents a beautifully-done bal mithai with a chocolate rosette and wild java plum sorbet. Paan-i-poori is an enjoyable palate cleanser in a way before you end with the Jasmine & Lychee Tea. Soul-soothing.

Second Floor, Voco Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Rd

Ph: +971 58 143 2867

6 pm to 11 pm.
Open on Sundays for lunch