HOW do you explain it�s presence everywhere? From the hallowed and authentic �Chinese-Chinese� restaurants to the roadside vans! Even restaurants respected for their own special cuisine, like Trishna, offer a Chinese menu. So do most fast food joints and some Udipis. Then can you blame Colaba�s Baghdadi or Bandra Station�s Yadgar for putting this mandatory cuisine on their menu? In fact, you�ll find that Chinese cuisine tangos with all kinds of palates. That�s why you have �Gujarati Chinese�, �Punjabi Chinese�, �South Indian Chinese� and even �Jain Chinese�.

No wonder some restaurants serve Chinese dishes garnished with kothmir, rings of onions and even curry pata. I have been keeping a close watch on this cuisine for the past 20 years and I find that adaptability is the name of the game. Even so, there are many great Chinese restaurants that have dug their heels in and retained their flavoursome character. These are some of my favourite ones.

The Great Wall

Definitely my most favourite Chinese restaurant in suburban Bombay. It has it all... a master chef from Beijing, special Chinese wine made of dragon eye grapes and festivals galore... �Crab Festival�, �Lantern Festival�, �Vietnamese Festival�. Could anyone ask for more? Not me, not if I can sit by the huge window looking on to the waterfall that trips into a limpid lotus pond. A cheerful airy place, graceful and carpeted, just perfect for lunch.

All three styles (Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan) are masterfully cooked and elegantly served. Evident in the thin-skinned, perfectly steamed Suimai or the Chicken with Plum Sauce or Steamed Fish. Even the jasmine tea is fragrantly perfect.

The Great Wall,
The Leela Kempinski,
Sahar, Bombay 400 059.
Ph: 6911234.

China Garden

Who says history doesn't repeat itself? The incredible chef-owner success-story is back and humming in Haji Ali, after having been demolished in Kemps Corner. Chinese silken curtains, bronzes, antique gold and ivory finish chairs welcome you to this large new space in the Crossroads shopping mall. So does Nelson Wang.

Nelson's fans are delighted with the fact that the popular dishes taste just the same; they have just the flavours which dovetail with the local preferences. Be it the punch of the garlic in the Gin Chicken or the bite of the chilli in the Cheun Chu Prawns. Full-bodied and brilliantly adapted.

I prefer to stick to the superlative �Sea treasure� menu and the fabulous value for money �Imperial banquet�. I always ask for special off-the-menu dishes and love the cook-it-on-the-table Korean barbecue and the Mongolian Steamboat here. Both make for a leisurely and unique dining experience. A suggestion; go really early if you want a relaxed meal, because the place can get noisy later on.

China Garden,
Crossroads, 28,
Pandit M. M. Malviya Road,
Haji Ali,
Bombay 400 034.
Ph: 4955588/89/90.

Ling�s Pavilion
Revealed... the city's best steamed-fish restaurant. Yes! I know it's known for its crabs and its value-for-money buffet lunch. But for me, it's the unerringly steamed large pomfret which is so self-contained, that it requires no adornment but shines well in the concert too. Delicate and understated, it is heaped over with mushrooms and chicken and steamed to coax the most amazing flavours. Accompany this with the pot rice, lightly done kankung greens spiked with garlic, drizzled with some sesame oil and you're on your way to heaven.

Heaven being the Colaba restaurant with a high ceiling (painted like the sky), the small bridge leading to the lower level and the pond with live fish all adding to the charm. Done up on two levels (like a pavilion), it is always teeming with Chinese, Koreans and Japanese, homesick for the authentic stuff. Go for the pipingly fresh seafood... whether lustily flavoured with garlic, or blisteringly spiced with chillies, or brilliantly rendered in black bean sauce.

Ling's Pavilion,
19/21 Mahakavi Bhushan Marg,
behind Regal Cinema,
Bombay 400 039.
Ph: 2850023/0024, 2824533.

Sampan

I enjoy most things about this large and popular eatery. It's patterned ceiling, it's salmon pink tones, the sense of privacy on each table! I also enjoy the food, the Chinese speciality silver-plated flatware and the blue and white crockery from Thailand.

Chef Pempa Tsering's wok magic is legendary and he specially flies in ingredients from China. I have always had consistently good meals here, plump dimsums served with interesting sauces, fragrantly spiced Chilli Pepper Prawns, masterfully-cooked Chinese greens and more. Sunil Dutt drops anchor regularly for the Ginger Chicken, Honey and Pan-fried Noodles. Jaya Bachchan enjoys Crispy Potatoes and Chicken Dumplings. While it's Chinese Greens for Mahesh Bhatt. Chef Picks: Chilli Pepper Prawns, Sampan Special Chicken.

Sampan,
Holiday Inn,
Juhu, Bombay 400 049.
Ph: 6904444, 6704444.

Kamling

This is where Karan Kapoor introduced me to the delicious and nourishing meal of the Chimney Soup. This is where I like to linger over it as the coal-fired brass container brims gently over with soup, meat, fish balls and veggies, which simmer and cook gently on the table. Venture here only if you enjoy the pure flavours of meats and fish done in the homestyle fashion. Set up by 54 Chinese weldsmen and sailors in 1938, it was bought over by the Thams and Chens, who continue to maintain its authentic character. Sure! They've facelifted it with red tasselled Chinese lamps and comfy seating. I also home in here when I am looking for a for a very late lunch or early dinner, or even a dim sum evening.

Kamling, Nagin Mahal,
82 Veer Nariman Road,
Bombay 400 020.
Ph: 2042618, 2853137, 2848184.

Emperor�s Court

The stunningly beautiful lakeside location draws me to this �Emperor�s court� and Chef Lee�s wok magic keeps me there. So, does the high-ceilinged stately ambience. Solid wooden pillars, intricately woven carpet and large windows embrace the lake view. Having honed his skills in leading Asian and Far Eastern hotels, Chef Lee has a firm grasp of his cuisine. He combines exquisite presentation with a superb cooking style. The two hottest sellers, the �Lobster in XO Sauce� spiced with pepper, rice wine and flavoured with ginger and garlic and �Salt and Pepper Prawns� are a must try. Whatever you do, you must try the small, creamy mango sticky rice pudding.

A distinguishing feature of this restaurant is that the menu serves up it�s dishes in two sizes small and regular. So, it enables me to try a lot more dishes and pay a lot less. Even the �Yum Cha� or the �Moving buffet�, �Eat as much as you can� option every Saturday and Sunday lunch is a major draw for me.

Emperor�s Court,
Renaissance Mumbai Hotel and Convention Centre,
#2&3B, Near Chinmayanand Ashram, Powai, Bombay 400 087 Ph: 6927777.

Pearl Of The Orient

There are two no ways about it. It�s the view. It brings to me to the Pearl of the Orient again and again. I love to perch high above (125 feet to be precise) my beloved city, amid a spirit-lifting, light-filled ambience and watch the shimmering sea and expanse of the city glide into view, as I luxuriate in this revolving restaurant. Sometimes, I�ve had inspired meals, sometimes not-so-inspired, the Korean and Chinese menus are somewhat reliable. The Japanese fare is not up to much. But the view never fails to take my breath away! Pearl Of The Orient,
The Ambassador,
Veer Nariman Road,
Churchgate, Bombay 400 020.
Ph: 2041131.

Oriental Blossom

Can�t quite put my finger on it. Comfy elegance? Smiling service? Subtle earth colours set off by black and white? Conspicuous subtlety? Mix of Szechwan and Cantonese cooking styles? What makes dining here a pleasant experience? Probably a little bit of everything, in this first floor Chinese restaurant.

Uncluttered appearance and fresh ingredients mark Chef Huang�s cooking, and amongst other dishes, it is the Roast Chicken which is always superb. I have always experimented with different dishes each and every time I have been here. I am happy to report each time, they have been up to the mark. If you are in a group, then do make it point to check out their VFM set menus for eight. Oriental Blossom,
Hotel Marine Plaza,
29 Marine Drive, Bombay 400 020.
Ph: 2851212.

Mainland China
Located in Saki Naka, (the last place you�d go looking for an authentic Chinese meal), this flagship of India�s only stand alone Chinese restaurant chain has got itself a new look. It has also got two authentic new menus and a brand new �period room�. The �Moon gate� entrance enchants and so does the gold and blue �floating ceiling�. Warm tones, gleaming surfaces, wooden tables and yet another moon gate leading into a brand new room, all add to the charm of this reopened restaurant.

Food from Inner Mongolia and Shantung forms the backbone of this cuisine. I love the entire spectrum of flavours from the succulent and Skewered Barbecued Lamb to the subtle and sliced fish in Shauxiang wine sauce. Even the Shredded Duck with Beansprouts is a masterpiece in contrasting textures. Prawn stir-fried with Asparagus in Crabmeat Sauce, the Crisp Quail with Herbal Salt are worth a try too.

Mainland China, Saki Naka Junction,
Andheri-Kurla Road,
Ph: 8578656/4984.

Ming Yang

Lunch time is gorgeous in this large, split-levelled restaurant when the large glass walls let in light and cheer and the view of the Arabian Sea. The feeling of energy is palpable in the carpeted, pale jade green restaurant done up with Chinese screens and brush paintings. At night, there is drama and romance, rows of lights glimmer and the mood is more celebratory. Each table offers a sense of privacy.

Their Chef Yui Kwong from Hong Kong is a maestro at balancing hot, sweet, sour and bitter flavours, and the crunchy and soft textures. Every single dish has its own distinct flavour. The Chinese tea-flavoured Smoked Duck Szechwan style is unique. So are the chef�s original sauces (XO, Malha and Imperial). And whatever you do, don�t forget to ask for his superlative Crispy Fried Milk dessert.

Ming Yang, Hotel Regent,
Land�s End, Bandra,
Bombay 400 050. Ph: 6441234.

Golden Dragon
India�s first authentic Szechwan restaurant is still holding its own and I still can�t remember a time when I have been disappointed with the food. This carpeted and wood-panelled restaurant may have lost some of its sheen, but it has kept up its standards of food. Peking Duck, Scallops, Soft Shell Maryland Crabs are served here. Over 190 dishes on the menu and a large chunk is vegetarian. Good vegetarian too. I have a string of old favourites... Golden Prawns, Conji Crispy Lamb, the famous Peking Duck (served in all its splendour), Asparagus (imported Dutch) Cakes, stuffed Shitake Mushrooms, stringless Haricots (imported from Kenya)... Chef Shi Xi Lin has it all here for you.

It�s my favourite place to celebrate too and if given advance notice they can put together the most amazing dimsum display, sorbets, silver cutlery, fancy crockery... the works. Is it any wonder that their guest list includes the Ambanis, and the Wadias and the Godrejs, not to forget the film stars?