I MUST say at the start, I got the recipes for the Cherry Brandy and Plum Rum out of the mail. A reader by the name of Adi Katrak (to whom you are going to be grateful for life) sent them to me with the suggestion that I make both the spirits in July or August latest, and then wait to have them until Christmas. Why Christmas? Because the fruit in both the spirits has to mature for four to five months at least. And at the end of this fermenting period, what you will have is a beautifully-transparent, burgundy-coloured Cherry Brandy which will be far superior to any branded product; plus, a terrific and rich, hard-hitting Plum Rum. Also, the fruit that you have used for the spirits will be dehydrated and wrinkled with the alcohol. Remove the pips, puree them in a blender, and refrigerate. They make an excellent filling for Christmas cake and pudding. Or as a topping for vanilla ice-cream.

The first thing to do, is get yourself a kilo each of cherries and plums. 'Tis the season for them. On street corners and in fruit markets, you will find vendors trundling carts overflowing with both. A happy picture of red these vendors make too. The preparation method in the recipes for both the spirits, the Cherry Brandy and the Plum Rum, are identical: only the ingredients are different. I will guide you through them by taking you step-by-step through the Cherry Brandy recipe for convenience. The cherries you buy must be of a dark maroon colour, only then is the fruit guaranteed to be ripe and sweet. (Likewise, the plums.) Buy the best quality because you are going to be making a brandy and rum that you will be proud to serve. What you need next is a 750 ml bottle of excellent brandy (and one of rum) and 750 gm of sugar.

I got the most trusted names in the market: Doctor's Brandy and Old Monk Rum! That done, we move into the preparation stage of the recipe for Cherry Brandy.

Wash the cherries thoroughly and then remove the stems from the fruit. Dry carefully with clean and soft cloth. Keep the fruit under a fan for a couple of hours until you are certain that the cherries are absolutely dry. Next, put the cherries in a stone jar (what is known as a billor ni barni in the market) that is otherwise used for pickle with the brandy and sugar. Tightly screw on the cap and keep the jar in a cool and dark place. Note the date on which you did this. One month later, open the jar and with a dry, long-handled wooden spoon, stir the contents for a while. Close the jar tightly and return it to its cool and dark corner. Let the brandy ferment for at least five months after that. One week before Christmas, when the postman starts calling with the season's festive cards, open the jar and strain the contents out into a decanter using a conical net strainer that is sold in general stores everywhere. Strain the contents once more. Then stand back to admire the beautiful burgundy brandy that you have made. Its rich and fruity bouquet will fill the house!

When you are making the Plum Rum (and you must make it the same day as you do the Cherry Brandy, not a day before or after), select good, firm, blood red plums. The rum is, of course, Old Monk. As fine an Indian product made by my friend Rocky Mohan of Mohan Meakin as is, say, any Jamaican rum. These are the basic ingredients. The procedure for the rum is the same as that of the brandy. At the end of the maturing period, when you have strained the rum twice, and you look with wonder at the rich product settling down in your decanter, you will have a rum that is terrific. It will be full-bodied and potent, but velvety smooth and like an extremely fine port or claret on the tongue. In the winter months, a peg of this rum in the evenings had neat, provides the warmth in your belly and a hearty and happy glow in the body and mind. Not to mention an astonishing appetite. But remember, the Cherry Brandy and Plum Rum are ready to be strained only when the fruit is dehydrated and wrinkled with age and fermentation. Don't throw away the fruit. Do like I said. Remove the pips, puree them, store them in the refrigerator, and then use them as a dessert in the Christmas cake or pudding.