It was along with a trainfull of noisy students, that I first saw the Taj Mahal. I was 15. In those days Mr Lala, God Bless his soul, used to be this fantastic school tour organiser who used to book special trains to take a mixed lot of Bombay school children to various parts of India. Agra was one such. Since then, I have seen this beautiful monument depicting eternal love six times, the last being the visit to bring to you the Gourmet Destination of this quarter. In spite of these numerous visits, the fabulous architecture still evokes in me the same awe it did so many years ago. For me the Taj symbolises love. And the legendary story that goes with it lends it that mystical aura which will never allow its importance to diminish in the eyes of the world.

I have seen it at various times of the day but never at dawn or by moonlight. When it is magical, I am told. As a photographer I can visualise it� through a soft salmon pink filter and silvery blue. Well, something for the future. Gives me reason to return. Food in Agra is a Mughal mix.The Jama Masjid area is dense. With people and shops. It's the heart of the city. Over here is where you go to buy the best Pethas, Gajak and Dal-Moth. I always meet interesting people when I travel upcountry, Agra was no exception. Among others is Ghanshyam Mathur, a well respected figure, who traces his lineage to 400 years ago when his forefathers were the jewellers to the Mughal Emperors. His possession of an awesome collection of precious stones and embroidery works of art make him the envy of a lot of well-to-do Indians.

The place to stay in Agra is the Oberoi Amarvilas. In that royal environment I came very close to feeling like Mumtaz Mahal. It�s grand. Immaculately appointed rooms, and all have a view of the Taj. Ten out of ten to Mr. B K S Oberoi. He has changed the way the world looks at India. I discovered Osho's writings only lately. There is so much wisdom in his words. All based on simple, common sense thoughts. It�s love that matters, laughter that�s important, being natural and staying in touch with our inner selves that saves us in this chaotic world. Well, I just had to go to Poona to experience a Wellness Program at the new Osho Meditation Resort. Kept an open mind, came away with good vibrations.

There are certain kind of people I am always happy to make the acquaintance of. Tony Wheeler is one such. He and his 600 Lonely Planet guide books have done for the travel trade what six million fancy, glossy, coffee table travel books wouldn't. I, a staunch user of these guides, was pleased as punch to get his autograph in my well-thumbed, well-travelled India guide.We are honoured to feature him as an UpperCrust person.

International travel took me to Toronto, where everyone seems to have at least one relative. I do, too, along with umpteen number of friends. School buddies, mainly. No, not that I studied there � they migrated. Are they happy there? You'll be surprised at the answer. Nonetheless, Toronto makes a great destination. Modern, friendly, it has it all. Great shopping, great food, fabulous restaurants and then there is the Niagara Falls!

Mark Manuel decided to go the opposite way. Where buildings don�t scrape the skies. Where there is only sun, sea, sand, and Soneva Gili. Maldives is currently the hotshot destination on the jetset circuit and seeing how beautifully blue Pages 159 to 164 look, I am half inclined to go there and bring in 2005!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, folks.

Farzana Contractor