THE Maruti Esteem rolls tiredly into the cobbled driveway of The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra, exhausted, no doubt, from the heat and dust of the National Highway No. 2 that brought us into the city from New Delhi. It is close to a five hour drive. A drive sustained by mineral water and nothing else. The dhabas along the way are of the kind that do not encourage anybody but the most hardy truck-drivers with robust constitutions and cast-iron stomachs to stop by and catch a bite. The car halts and gently, audibly, sighs. Taken aback, perhaps, by the magnificence of Amarvilas� colonnaded forecourt that waits in welcome. And the smartly attired staff that spring to life and unload us into the property.

As it turns out, we are fortunate we stayed hungry, for Allywn Drego, Executive Assistant Manager at Amarvilas, has planned an elaborate menu for our lunch at this luxurious property of P. R. S. Biki Oberoi. Checking in is swiftly done. Then, a smooth ride to the room in the express elevator. A fumble at the door with the key that takes getting used to even on the last day of our stay. And, once inside, the view... breathtaking, of the Taj Mahal right there in front of the Amarvilas! Undisturbed by anything. Rising shyly though majestically from amongst the greenery as if to take a peep at its 21st century neighbour of classical designs, elaborate gardens, terraced lawns, fountains, reflection pools and pavilions that is as much a tribute to the architectural legacies of the Mughals as is the Taj Mahal itself.

For this view of the Taj Mahal from its every room, The Oberoi Amarvilas stands head and shoulders over all the other five star properties in Agra. Then comes everything else. Like the grandeur of the property, its impeccable service, The Oberoi Spa run by Banyan Tree, and the fine, exquisite dining at its restaurants Bellevue and Esphahan. General Manager Sandeep Talaulicar, a cigar in mouth, takes us on a quick recce of the Amarvilas and with the air of Escofier uncovering a platter containing his latest culinary masterpiece, opens doors of rooms, suites, the lobby, bar and tea lounge. They all offer spectacular views of the world�s most famous monument. Incredibly, the Amarvilas is located just 600 metres away from the Taj Mahal. And its golf carts, running on battery so as not to pollute the air, drive guests from the property to the east gate of the monument. There, an Amarvilas guide takes over and gives you a tour of the Taj Mahal.

Amarvilas has 105 rooms including 38 deluxe rooms, 60 deluxe rooms with terrace, and seven suites. All the rooms, we repeat, offer grand views of the Taj Mahal. You may wake up to the glorious sight of the monument bathed by the first rays of dawn; watch her sparkle by day as the sun shines on her architectural perfection; allow yourself to be swept away by her romance at dusk; and, let the nights be filled with the magic of the Taj Mahal by moonlight. The view apart, the rooms and suites all have spacious marble bathrooms with separate shower stalls. They have personal bars, satellite television, laser disc player, two-line phones with dataport, in-room safe, tea and coffee making facilities. Outside the rooms, there is a large swimming pool set in a magnificent terraced garden that comes alive with flaming torches at night. And where for private dinners, musicians perform the tabla and sitar softly.

What deserves special mention also is The Oberoi Spa by Banyan Tree. Trained therapists with personalised holistic treatments based on ayurveda, ancient Thai and western techniques awaken the senses with stimulating beauty and body treatments in exquisitely appointed spa suites where the Taj Mahal shimmers as inspiration outside the window. But that is hotel jargon.

The treatments, the massages, sometimes really defy description. Lovely, gentle, soft-spoken Thai girls use their palms and fingertips to stimulate blood circulation, iron out the knots and kinks in the body, soothe jangling nerves and induce a state of total relaxation. There are a number of body massages, traditional Indian beauty treatments, a salon offering spa manicures and pedicures, hair care, waxing, threading, make-up, speciality baths and complete spa programmes that last as much as three hours and turn you out a new person, cleansed in body, soul, and mind as well.

Now the food. Ah, the food! Agra, unfortunately, does not have a cuisine of its own. But Amarvilas has an Indian restaurant called Esphahan (which is the name of an old Persian city renowned for its culinary ingredients and which was part of the Spice Route traders used centuries ago) whose menu is like a guided culinary tour across the India. From the majestic Himalayan ranges to the sun-baked Malabar coast; and from the rivers of Bengal to the Rann of Kachchh. And Chef Siddhartha Chowdhry of Amarvilas, mindful of the absence of a regional cuisine, has been experimenting in his kitchen with flavours more than spices to create a fusion food that is acceptable to all. His Indian cuisine is not with the Awadhi spices of nearby and the North Indian masalas. It lacks chilli. But makes up in cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and saffron.

�Foreigners and Indians have both appreciated and preferred the flavours in food to spices,� the chef says. �If you increase the chilli in a dish, all the other tastes get subdued, you only taste the spice. This camouflages the talent of a chef.� And his experiments with flavours have led to create dishes such as Sunerha Jhinga, which are tiger prawns flavoured with lemon grass and the kafir lime; the Chandni Murgh Kebab, chicken nuggets flavoured with mace and cardamom; the Tandoori Bateir, which is quail with mustard and garlic; and, the Ajwaini Jhinga, tiger prawns again, but in carom seed gravy. Amarvilas gets its seafood from Bombay, its meats from Delhi, and a lot of its the produce locally. Chef Chowdhry is constantly researching what flavouring agent goes with what meat and fish and vegetable. His clientele likes to indulge in his fusion Indian food.

For them, he has a Shahi Tukda for dessert on his menu that is sinfully rich and in keeping with Agra�s royal past: he soaks bread pieces in thickened saffron milk, stuffs them with rabdi, and garnishes them after baking with chopped almonds and pistachios.