THE best Swiss fondue you can get in Bombay is not at Apollo Bar at the Taj Mahal Hotel, but at C-48, Mayfair Gardens, off Little Gibbs Road, Malabar Hill. This is the residence of Max and Rose-Marie Heller.

He is the consul general of Switzerland, and they are as Swiss as the fondue is, probably more. Once a month, the Hellers invite friends over for a fondue evening, and Max Heller takes over the kitchen to do the cooking. "Fondue is a man's business," he says, "and it is the easiest thing on earth to do, probably that's why the women trust the men with it in Switzerland!"

He describes fondue as a pot of cheese melted in white wine and flavoured by a clove of garlic, some nutmeg, freshly-ground peppercorns, mixed with cornflour and a dash of kirsch. The pot is kept to bubble happily on a small candle burner.

When it is hot, small pieces of bread are dipped into the pot with a long fork, swirled around, drawn out and eaten. If the fondue is too hot, it will burn the tongue, but if it is less than hot, then the cheese will turn lumpy and the fondue cannot be used as a dip for the bread. So, maintain a delicate control on the heat. The fondue must be creamy enough to coat the bread well.

When the Swiss get together over a pot of fondue, the idea is to interact informally. Four to six people share a pot, the forks dipping in simultaneously, and it fosters a feeling of togetherness. "It brings out the community spirit," explains Max Heller.

"Sitting together and eating from the same pot is very convival, you do not expect that from the Swiss, because we are so stiff, so formal. Whereas fondue is casual, it is fun! And every time a man loses his piece of bread in the fondue pot, he leans over and kisses his wife or girlfriend. That's not punishment, that's tradition."

Q: Where does fondue come from?
A: From the French part of Switzerland, from Lake Geneva Region and Valais. The French produce the best cheese and wine in the world. Probably that's how they hit upon fondue.

Q: Could any kind of cheese be used for fondue?
A: Absolutely not! You use Gruyere or Emmental, or a mixture of both. These are the most famous cheeses and the one the Swiss like best. Gruyere has more taste, it is more spicy, whereas Emmental has a higher fat content. It makes the fondue heavy.

Q: What about the wine?
A: It will have to be a dry white wine. A dash of Kirsch is also added. Kirsch is cherry schnapps. It adds a strong, bitter taste to the fondue. Kirsch produces a good marriage between the white wine and cheese.

Q: Could fondue be made from Indian wine?
A: Perhaps, if it is dry and white. Fondue is also made with some Californian and German wines. But this will not be the same as having it with Swiss wine. Know the difference between a French wine and a Swiss wine? When you have too much of French wine, you start seeing double, and when you have too much Swiss wine, you start feeling single!

Q: What about the bread, would any type do?
A: Hmmn, I suppose so. But the best variety is the French baguette. The bread should be fresh, white and crispy.

Q: Is fondue only a cheese and wine food?
A: The basic ingredients are cheese and wine. In the US, they make fondue with beer and chocolate. Ugh! I personally think that is decadent. And the Chinese make a fondue of meat.

Q: Is fondue a seasonal food?
A: Yes, most Swiss eat it during winter. It is most enjoyable then.

Q: Is it a lunch or dinner food?
A: The best time to have fondue is after a day spent skiing or trekking. You come back home tired with friends, and prepare the fondue in the kitchen. When you are hungry, it tastes out of this world!

Q: Can anybody make fondue?
A: But of course! You don't have to be an expert chef to do fondue. The beauty of fondue is the participation of the men in its making. People are always in a happy, carefree mood when preparing fondue. Fondue creates a good, leisure atmosphere.

Q: Do the Swiss have it often?
A: Often enough, but not less than three times a month.

Q: Is fondue a meal by itself?
A: It can be, though it is preceded by an entree and followed by a dessert. Or fruits.

Q: Could any drink be recommended with fondue?
A: Yes, the same dry white wine that goes in the cheese pot. This could be the Swiss Fendant, Dorin or Perian. Fondue could even be had with black tea. It is all a matter of taste. Tea is compatible with fondue, but coffee is bad. In the US, I understand they drink Coca-Cola with fondue. I would never do that!

Q: Is fondue famous worldwide?
A: Yes, tourists want to eat it all the time. There are restaurants that serve only fondue and raclettee in Switzerland. These are very popular, though there aren't many of them. Fondue is famous, even more than Swiss banks and chocolates!

(Note: Fondue pots, burners and special forks are available at kitchenware shops like Saria Stores at Lohar Chawl, Crawford Market, in Bombay. The Gruyere and Emmental cheeses are sold in cheese shops and department stores in all metro cities in India. A good dry, white Indian wine could be used for fondue, these are available off the shelf in every liquor store, but the French and Swiss wines you would have to buy for a price from the bars of five-star hotels. The French baguette is made by most modern bakeries in the country, but the crisp Irani brun pav is also recommended for fondue. However, the easiest way to make fondue is to get a fondue sachet from the duty free shop at any airport and follow the instructions.)

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