As the sun descends through the dusty haze enveloping the evening in a purple hue, the lights of Matheran's eateries and restaurants in the main bazaar road, glow like bright amber coals. It would seem this is where everyone comes for the night repast. But the bazaar is not where all the action lies. For, off the main road, in a leafy avenue that runs parallel to the bazaar, a small dhaba wakes up to serve the tastiest delicacies. This is Shabbir Kasam Mahapule�s dhaba. Word has it that once you have eaten food here, you will never forget its taste.

The eatery itself is quite small, with bamboo fencing, to cordon off the six tables. There is an option to eat inside as well, with four large tables. The specialty of the house are the thick parathas, made with wheat flour and fried in ghee to give them the melt-in-the-mouth softness. Equally delicious is the Mutton Fry and the Chicken Tikka Masala. If you have a problem deciding where to make a start, ask Nazir Noor Mohammed, who manages the dhaba and is Shabbir Bhai's nephew. It is normally Shabbir Bhai who pays a visit to every table, enquiring if the meal is satisfying, but this being a Saturday night and, that too, a bank holiday, the dhaba is bristling with customers and Shabbir Bhai is attending to some of them, a few tables away. On one side, two large vessels are being packed to the brim with piping hot biryani. It is just off the coals, and being sent to a family who is staying nearby and who had placed an order earlier in the day for a home delivery from the biryani specialist. Yes, that is also possible - a take away.

"My mother always cooks the Special Chicken so well," prompts young Nazir. We remember meeting her earlier. A lovely lady, tall and elegant, Roshan was married to Shabbir when he started the dhaba way back in 1979 and it is her culinary expertise that has created the taste the dhaba maestro is so known for. Though young Nazir is actually her nephew, he regards Shabbir Bhai and his wife as his parents. Out of respect for Roshan, we taste the Special Chicken. It is thicker than normal gravys, quite like a korma actually, with the delicate pungency that evokes flavour of the meat ever so gently. Also, the Special Chicken has, well� a special decoration. It comes with sliced boiled eggs and a blend of onion and mint leaves and is all too affordable at Rs 65. The vegetarian fare is delicious and very reasonable too, with dishes priced between Rs 25 and Rs 40. Great value for money!

Just as we start eating, Shabbir Bhai saunters up. He is delighted to see that the choice of the evening is his wife's specialty. "Didn't you also try the Paneer today?" he asks, "it's very fresh." Shabbir Bhai personally undertakes the buying of fruits and vegetables for his eatery. This he does in weekly and sometimes bi-weekly trips to Bombay's Vashi Market, where he loads a tempo with grains, pulses and the freshest of market produce and makes the journey back to Matheran's Dasturi Point by sundown. From there, he carts his buys onto horseback and brings them up to his dhaba. At 62, it is no mean feat but is one of the things that keeps Shabbir Bhai happy and puts the twinkle into his eye. It must take hard work and dedication and above all, a good, kind heart, to be so successful and provide substantial competition in the face of rising commercialism in the hill-station. "I'll tell you what the secret to it all is; I pray hard five times a day," smiles the affable man. This also means he is disciplined in his habits, for he would have to get up much before the crack of dawn to offer the fajr prayers. A long time hand at running his business, Shabbir Bhai has also imparted the right training to Zahir, his son and his nephew Nazir.

Like most other old-time dwellers of Matheran he feels that while Matheran is good for the business, it has certainly lost its charm. "Way back in the 80's we didn't use fans here, now people want air-conditioners at every place," he says. With his fame and good food, one wonders if he ever thought of opening an eatery in the big city. It would undoubtedly do well, we tell him. "Never," comes the vigorous reply, "I dislike Bombay, it has lost its values. Matheran is so different, so laid-back. I am quite satisfied here and my customers come back year after year for my food, some even after a gap of seven years. They remember what they had once eaten and discover that is still on the menu and with the same taste. That is something that gives me the greatest pleasure," he admits.

We come away feeling that even if Matheran is inundated with many more changes, Shabbir Bhai will remain here, undaunted, serving the same delicious cuisine in his homely dhaba.