As you walk up the muddy slopes of Matheran, tall, short, black, white and brown horses welcome you with their noisy neighing. Cars are prohibited beyond the famous Dasturi Point (we bless the soul who devised the rule) and so the army of about five hundred horses, with loyal masters in tow, awaits the enthusiastic tourists. The backbone of the flourishing horse businesses in Matheran is its horsemen. While sipping a cup of masala chai on a luxurious sofa, in a hotel room at Matheran, your heart reaches out to the tough world of these simple people. Horsemen often dedicate their lives to horses and tourists.

One such horseman is Salim Mujatwar. He is the uncrowned king of horses here. A faraway look in his eyes reflects the charm and history of Matheran as one has never seen before. A cheerful, young gentleman, whose warmth envelopes you at first glance; Salim exudes a passion for the business.

Salim is one of those who began quite modestly as a boy, about thirty years ago. Starting with a single horse and only word of mouth to market himself, his persuasive voice has carried him a long way. Salim�s sincerity and friendly disposition fetched him clients from the once famous Rugby Hotel. Over the years his popularity soared and he has built up a repertoire of wealthy clients from swanky South Bombayites to foreigners and holiday enthusiasts. Today his business boasts four trained horsemen and ten horses. The horses were purchased from the farms of Nashik at alarmingly high prices. In an era of sliding tourism and exploding maintenance costs, Salim�s monthly turnover of fifty thousand rupees is barely enough to break even. Despite the meager revenues, Salim�s spirit remains intact. It is endearing to watch the genuine togetherness prevalent in his team of four workers. They feed and care for the horses, accompanying them on their journeys through Matheran. The amalgamated revenue is collected and distributed as salary to his team and used for the business. A tiny portion is kept by the humble horseman himself.

Salim Bhai, as he is fondly called, struggles through each day, making an early start, much before dawn. From supervising his men who feed the horses with gram seed, wheat rusk, carrot and grass, to preparing his horses for the rides ahead, to client servicing, everything is masterminded by the multi-tasker himself. Marketing executives could be put to shame with his simple strategies. His persuasive voice beckoning passersby for a joy-ride is hard to resist. The illustrious horseman is also in charge of the marketing and finances required for managing the business. Although he lives with his family in the hilly Matheran, he frequently visits Bombay. His trips are related to his business. Meeting prospective money-lenders and banks for loans needed to maintain and expand the trade is his responsibility. The enterprising yet unassuming horseman wins you over with his rustic charm and absolute honesty.

Matheran through his horse rides is a novel experience altogether. One conversation with him and you could be left spellbound by the intriguing historical stories surrounding Matheran. Salim Mujatwar does come across as a simpleton. He knows the place well and promises every visitor a joy-ride through the quaint little Maharastrian hill station.

Whether it is capturing the enigmatic beauty hidden in the peaks of Matheran�s hills or galloping through the muddy slopes to catch a glimpse of the splendid bungalows that enchants you, Salim knows it best. "Madam, aapko Sunset Point jaana hain? Aaeyey na, please" he pleads, as he waits at the apex of the market�s slope, scouting for prospective clients. If you are the kind to enjoy horse riding, Salim has some exclusive riding lessons just for you. His team conducts riding sessions in the coveted Olympia Racecourse just behind the St. Xavier�s School in Matheran. Salim and his team have customized tours offering you the chance to maximize your stay here.

The free spirited horseman spends his day graciously chatting with varying tourists, giving insights into the life of Matheran and also learning a bit about the ways of the world. At the end of the day he returns home to his life � his family. It is indeed touching to watch this modest horseman gallop through each day with a song in his heart and a new story to narrate. It is the simplicities and enthusiasm of people like Salim Mujatwar that moves our soul only to make holidays special and worthwhile.

Salim Mujatwar - 02148 202620.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY FARZANA CONTRACTOR