Staying On
Jennifer Bramble gave up Europe to live in Goa, “happily and with no regrets”. She shares her story with UpperCrust. Goa has been a hot spot for international travellers for years. The sun, the sand, the food and an easy life have served well, the escapist trait that exists in all of us. Foreigners get so lured by its charm, they often stay on. One such person is Jennifer Bramble. On the way to Coco beach, where guests are given a warm welcome by five friendly dogs, is this beautiful bungalow named Halicarnassus Quinta, hidden behind old trees. The bungalow has a strong influence of Italian, English, Goan and Parsi architecture. "I was born in England, lived in Rome for about 20 years, then fell in love with Goa when I visited it the first time," says Jennifer. The dignified gracious lady,  with a deceptively stern disposition, makes her way into the middle of the sitting area, where she settles down comfortably to chat with us. The 20th century columns in the centre of her house allow for natural light and add a dramatic touch. "It took me one year to conceptualize the house and two years to build it from scratch. I have been living in Goa for the past twelve years and spent ten of those glorious years in this very home," she says proudly with a smile.On the walls of her living room,hang hang paintings of famous Goan artists and some from London. "I help promote local artists by showcasing their works in galleries close by. My favourite Goan artist is Kanhaiya, who has exhibited his works at the Calangute Art Chambers and Galleries," says Jennifer pointing to one of Kanhaiya's paintings. However, he shares space with her other favourite Goan artists, Mohan Naik and Suhas Shilkar. Amidst the photographs of Jennifer's brother Roger, ex-Mayor of London and Godfather to Princess Diana, are bookshelves, stacked with books,both old and new. "I love to read," says Jennifer. The shelves display books on the history of Indian politics by authors like Mark Tully, a collection of Rudyard Kipling, T. S. Eliot, Robert Ludlum and the much loved J. K. Rowling's Harry Potter collection.  She and her brother wanting to escape the extreme winters of Europe decided to shift base. While Jennifer contemplated settling down in Jaipur, the winters were a deterrent, so, at her brother's suggestion they settled down happily in Goa. "I was born in Bombay. My father, Lawrence, was the acting Governor of Bombay and my mother's family served the Indian Navy for many years. I spend eight months in Goa and run away either to Italy or Britain during the monsoons." she informs, adding that she does this to avoid the insects that create havoc during that time. Having discovered Goa, Jennifer inititally started conducting in-bound tours for Italians. Her groups were hosted by the Taj. She continues to bring Italian and French groups to Goa. "I organise dinners and lunches for locals as well. The group needs to be a minimum of 20 people," she points out. Her tours cost about Rs. 1500 per head and include wine and a dolphin-spotting trip at the bay using fishing boats. Guests also have the choice of going out for a day of bird watching. She organises wedding receptions too! "The porch is ideal for about 150 guests”. The house, with five bedrooms at her disposal, is rented out to visitors. "We serve guests a variety of cuisines like Goan, Italian, Thai, Continental and a bit of North Indian which would include Rajasthani food," she  explains. Jennifer enjoys her pajata (pronounced payata). This Italian dish is prepared using the intestines of an 'un-weaned' calf, i.e., fed only on its mother's milk. The intestines are cleaned, but the milk is left inside. When cooked, it coagulates and creates a sort of thick, creamy, cheese-like sauce. It is served seasoned and grilled. Jennifer takes pride in and enjoys whatever she does. "I love cooking, Thai and Goan cuisine. Portuguese pork and clams go well together with Chinese black bean sauce," she says fondly patting Yumyum the youngest of her four legged friends. |
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