TIGERS still roam the jungles of Jamuva Ramgarh, 60 kilometres outside Jaipur, where the Rajmata Gayatri Devi has a 70-year-old lodge that used to be the royal family�s camp when it went hunting there. She still goes there often enough, but not on shikars, those are now out; there is a polo ground nearby, and the Rajmata is a patron of polo. No big match can be played anywhere in Jaipur (or even Rajasthan) without her gracing the game. When the Jamuva Ramgarh polo ground plays host, then she stays overnight at her old lodge.

The drive back to her palatial residence in Jaipur is over two hours long and over terrain that God forgot to complete. Making an up and down trip in one day is too much of a hassle. Especially for an 82-year-old Rajmata. Besides, why should she, when she can break journey at Jamuva Ramgarh itself and stay at her fully-staffed home. Next time you are in Jaipur, try and get her to take you along, or make the trip yourself. The lodge is certainly worth a visit, if only to see how the royals �roughed� it out in the days of their raj.

It is in absolute jungle area, this lodge, and the only thing that can save you should a tiger decide to investigate your presence in Jamuva Ramgarh, is the local deity. The Jaipur royal family�s Jamwa Mata Di Mandir, a 1,500-year-old temple, still exists in the wilds. Invoke the Goddess� blessings before you embark on any adventure here. Or better still, make a pucca reservation to spend a night at the Rajmata�s jungle lodge.

Happily, it is now a Taj Group of Hotels property, and appropriately named the Ramgarh Lodge. Bookings can be made from the Taj offices in any of the metro cities. Or at the Ramgarh Lodge itself. The caretaker�s name is Peter D�Sa. He�s been there for ages. No, the tigers haven�t got him as yet, though they must have planned on having him for lunch several shikar seasons ago. D�Sa is extremely careful in Jamuva Ramgarh area.

He locks himself in when he goes to bed at night and will not investigate strange sounds around the lodge for love or money. His number is (014262) 217. Tell him when you are coming, then watch the reception he organises for you. It is the kind of stuff the royal family�s stays there were full of, that much I can assure you.

The lodge is perched on the banks of the old Ramgarh Lake, the jungle forms the backdrop, and there still stands an old machan here from which the royal parties used to bait and shoot tigers. The voluble D�Sa points out, though, that the last time any serious hunting took place here was before Independence. And not since then, though the lodge is the final resting place for much of the game that the Jaipur Maharajahs have killed. Their trophies adorn the walls.

There�s more. Swimming is not advised in the Ramgarh Lake, because there just might be crocodiles, though the oarsmen of the 1982 Asian Games took their chances when they rowed their boats all the way over here from Delhi. But D�Sa swears the waters are now placid, and offers to organise boating, a good book and a packet of sandwiches for recreation.

Still, the water is always icy cold, that�s the general climate at Jamuva Ramgarh, and there are better things to do at the lodge. Like imbibe the lurking presence of the royal families in the old world charm of its wood panelled walls, its 18 large rooms and three spacious suites, many of which offer an excellent view of the lake.

I mentioned the reception D�Sa might organise for you. Typically, it�s called the Jungle Theme. A cart drawn by camels, and led by traditionally dressed Meena tribals from the nearby Cholai Village, picks you up from a kilometre away. The tribals carry flaming torches, because you will be picked up after sunset, and they make the distance to the lodge dancing and singing all the way.

Rajasthani musical instruments are played, drums are hammered, and peculairly-shaped trumpets are blown in your ear. But your attention will be rivetted by the performance of a hellish-looking, semi-naked young man dancing the tandav with swords and a buxom (fully clad!) woman. The procession will end at the Ramgarh Lodge garden, where a fine outdoor banquet has been laid out.

This is authentic Rajput food. Soole Ke Kebabs sizzle on a brazier, an aromatic meat biryani simmers in a dum-sealed handi, and D�Sa, now in the role of chef�s assistant, offers all kinds of grilled, roasted, tandoored and salt-dried meats. There�s also Dal Batti Churma with an assortment of Rajasthani breads. And Gulab Jamun, Rassogolla and Gajar Halwa for dessert. Don�t drink too much of the alcohol they offer, you will need to sprinkle it on the bonfires they have lit to keep the flames from dying out. And when you finally go to bed, beware the... lizards.

Ramgarh Lodge, Jamuva Ramgarh, Jaipur 303104. Tel: (014262) 217. Fax: 0141 381098. Rooms all AC, attached bath, hot and cold water. Dining room offers Indian and Continental meals. Season: October to March. Reservations can be made at all Taj offices.