And there is the third cusine of Mangalore, the non-vegetarian cuisine of the Kerala Muslims. The members of this community are called Moplahs and they come from Kasargod district, which is on the border of Karnataka and Kerala, half in Mangalore half outside. The cuisine is distinctly Muslim, though unlike the Muslim food, of say, Hyderabad and Lucknow, it is wholesome rather than rich. Moplahs are descended from Arab intermarriage with local Kerala women. Not only is their cuisine influenced by this intermarriage, but also the way the community dresses. The men, for example, wear a kind of headgear that is more like a turban Arabs would wear in the desert during sandstorms. Like Anwar Manipaddy, one of the most eminent Moplahs of Mangalore, does when he is at home. He is an advertising man, he works in the city proper, but has a house in the hills of Kasargod district, a good one hour drive out of Mangalore. This is where Mangalore's Moplah community lives.

Moplah cuisine has a lot in common with the other foods of Mangalore especially in its dependence on coconut and coconut oil, but the Arab influence is there in its chicken, mutton and beef preparations. The chicken is always country, and the Moplahs do a very daring stuffed and fried chicken curry called Koi Poingya in which the chicken is stuffed with boiled eggs, and then cooked in a coconut milk. They also make a chicken in rice ball curry. Mutton is always kid goat, or sometimes lamb, and there is the Mughlai Korma and Chaap on the Moplah menu, but there is also a Kerala Mutton Barle, a simmering chilli hot preparation cooked in ghee, which is the Malayali touch. The Mughlai influence is also apparent in the Moplah Biryani, white and yellow and made on dum, with plenty of green chilli and ginger.

The cuisine of this community is spicy and hot. Its base is rice. And Moplahs make a ghee rice called Neichoru that is almost like their signature dish. It is unlike the ghee rice of any other Indian cuisine because the Moplahs use a lot of cardamom, cinnamon and cloves in the Neichoru. They make a chicken or mutton coconut milk curry to go with the Neichoru. And they cook beef, the most popular dish being one with grated coconut and red chillies, it is quite like a chilli fry, but not quite. Moplahs make a rice chapati called pathiri that is as popular as the multi-layered wheat Malabar paratha. And their desserts, again, are rice and milk-based. Like the Kaiadai. The famous Kerala banana is boiled, then ground into a paste, soaked in the yellow of egg and cardamom, rolled in a dough made of flour and banana, deep-fried in ghee and then soaked in sugar syrup.


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