Atlantic Canada

Charming and Quaint

Text & Photographs: Farzana Contractor

Very few tourists find their way to the east coast of Canada. It’s the west coast, with Vancouver beckoning, that attracts all the attention. But believe me it’s the east, Atlantic Canada, that I find beguiling. In any case, it’s the quieter, more peaceful part of Canada. Also more simple and rustic. Where you go salmon fishing on the Miramichi and moose-hunting in Brunswick – but only in allocated forest area and during a stipulated time, with proper license in hand.
Atlantic Canada comprises of Newfoundland, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, together known as the Maritime Provinces.
The region is rich in many ways. Beautiful coastline, great beaches, spectacular vistas, rolling hills, varied seafood, organic produce, clean air, green surroundings and a very small population – just over two million – enjoying the unpolluted atmosphere.
St John’s, the capital of Newfoundland is like no other. It’s the unique architecture, a distinct style, that sets it apart from the rest of Canada. It was here that the early settlers, British sailors, landed. It was also an outpost for European fishermen and, therefore, it consisted mainly of homes for fishermen, sheds, storage shacks and wharves all constructed out of wood.
In St John’s, you end up discussing the weather more often than you do in London. Simply because the weather here changes hourly!
Romance abounds at every turn. In its harbour, with cruise ships parked, in its streets with names like Duckworth and Water and villages like Quidi Vidi where they brew super beer with the purest of water from floating icebergs which they harness. With its outposts like Cape Spear, historical sites like Signal Hill and Battery, with its colourful Jellybean Houses. Then there is also the unusual looking museum perched atop the hill, simply called The Rooms, looking like a cluster of barn houses.
Across the harbour is Cape Spear where are two beautiful lighthouses, the seascapes are phenomenal. Wild waves crashing with happy whales leaping in the air, frolicking! It’s so far removed from our normal existence, it feels weird to see locals dismissing off the pantomime, with a lazy wave and a smile!
A must visit when in St John’s would be Newfoundland Chocolate Company, for the most delectable and bespoke chocolates, Bacalao for dinner with its game food; moose and caribou as well as the local speciality, the salt cod. And the Rocket Bakery, run by Kelly, an extremely amazing woman who gave up a high profile ad agency job in Toronto to head here and bake bread!
Halifax in Nova Scotia is not what I imagined; a large, crowded, bustling city… I mean it does have over 400 restaurants and it does have a fun nightlife with 100s of pubs, even a casino, and dozens of art galleries and live theatre, but it is still laidback and comparatively not as loud as a big city should be.
To qualify as a city worth living in there ought to be a good farmers’ market and Halifax does not disappoint. In fact, it is the oldest one in Canada, having started in 1750. It is a huge one with about 300 vendors. And no, you don’t jostle for space, it is well-laid out. They sell all kinds of produce, homegrown or home-made everything! Organic fruits and veggies, coffee, maple products, chocolates, free-range poultry, the best local lamb, fish, seafood, cheese made from milk produced by grass-eating cows, along with a line up of natural yogurts, all laid out for tasting and purchase.
The place to stay when in Halifax would be The Halliburton, a distinguished, heritage property with just 29 charming rooms, each unique in size and layout, individually appointed. Some with fireplaces, some with private balconies…
Prince Edward Island – PEI, as it is locally known – is also popular as the Gentle Island of Rejuvenation. Life here is known to move at a rather relaxed pace and it strikes a good balance between providing a restful vacation and myriad of activities, if you so desire. But what comes as a pleasant shock is that this island, just 224 kms. long and 6 to 64 kms. wide with only 1,40,000 people living on it, has over 500 restaurants! Charlottetown, the capital city has some of the country’s best chefs. It also has a vibrant arts community that includes many successful artists, writers, actors, filmmakers and musicians. However, the food industry is the single most important contributor to its economy. The island’s primary activity is farming and fishing and ‘fresh’ is the operative word when it comes to food experiences. PEI is famous for its oysters and mussels, as also potatoes. On the island, the ‘100-mile diet’ becomes the ‘10-mile diet’ as the lobster in your plate may have been harvested on the fishing boat at the dock right outside your window and the salad made up of herbs and greens from the garden in the backyard of the restaurant.
Fairholm Inn in Charlottetown is where you should break your journey. Built in 1838, an era which allowed prominent families not just gracious living, but also a luxurious one, this was the house that Mr Thomas Heath Haviland built. An Englishman who rose from the ranks going on to become the Mayor of Charlottetown. I got to sleep in the master’s chamber, named what else but T.H. Haviland Suite. It features an impressive king bed, original to Fairholm, gas fireplace, inlaid hardwood floors, antique writing table and curved glass bay windows. Charming, all of it.

The Charming Tait House

Quidi Vidi Beers

Kelly Mansell, Rocket Bakery