Relishing the Chutney

In Indian cuisine, chutneys play an important role as companions to the food and as taste enhancers. Gautam Anand relishes this staple food with focus on Delhi and shares unusual recipes that you must try at home

Let food be your medicine and the kitchen be your pharmacy

In the vibrant tapestry of culinary delights, few condiments boast the versatility, flavour complexity, and timeless appeal quite like the chutney. As we embark on a delectable journey through the rich history of this culinary gem, we seek our cultural heritage to guide us through India’s incredible cuisine and relishes.

Good digestion is the basis of good health, according to our hakims and vaids. And good digestion starts with a combination of health and taste.

Zaiqa and Sehat

In India, taste plays a big role in food selection. The six tastes are: sweet; sour; salty; bitter; astringent; pungent. Each one has a different effect on our metabolism.

Historically, Indian relishes do serve as meaningful and healthy enhancement to occasionally bland or monotonous meals.

The concept of combining fruits, vegetables and spices to create a zesty, tangy accompaniment has been a culinary tradition across cultures.

In ancient times, the relish was a culinary alchemy − a magical touch that transformed humble ingredients into a symphony of flavours. It was a testament to resourcefulness, turning surplus produce into delectable creations that could be enjoyed long after harvest season.

A Symphony of Flavours

As the culinary landscape evolved, so did the varieties of gourmet relishes available to choose from. From the sweet and savoury chutneys of India to the tangy pickles of South Asia, each culture added its unique twist to this condiment.

We focus today on the National Capital, Delhi and no, by no means are we limiting the national love affair with chutney.

Once Upon a Chutney

When it comes to relishes, chutneys have a role to play as both companions and taste enhancers. These delicious accompaniments, blending tradition and innovation, have become a part of every home. In Delhi, a city where history intertwines with diversity, the evolution of chutneys represents a journey that highlights centuries of influence, adaptation and creativity.

In the heart of Chandni Chowk, amidst its maze of streets and bustling markets, the Neher e Faiz or the canal system silently flowed, reshaping not only the city’s geography but also its dining culture. This remarkable water network was meticulously revived by visionary engineers with assistance from experts in medicine and ancient texts. It played a role in shaping Delhi’s scene. As the Neher meandered through the city, it set off a chain reaction that sparked a revolution.

Over time the water from the Neher acquired a hint of arsenic − a challenge that became an opportunity for ingenuity. To avoid it, inventive chefs and cooks embraced pungency to infuse unique “chatpata” flavours into the city’s cuisine. The unique and captivating spiciness adds a layer to Delhi’s identity subtly yet distinctly.

The consonant diagraphs CH are such a remarkable coincidence. Or is it? In the tapestry of cuisine, where languages, cultures, and traditions intertwine like sand in an hourglass the sound is CH. It is remarkable for binding chaat, chatpata, chutney, etc.

Chutneys exemplify India’s diversity, with languages like Hindi, Bengali, Tamil, Punjabi, Kannada, the list goes on. Chutneys harmoniously bring together all these dialects. The melodious presence of CH, in chutney effortlessly bridges these boundaries. It unifies people by giving meaning to the word itself. Whether called chutney in Hindi or chatni in Kannada it is this letter combination of CH that connects all languages under one umbrella.

Emergence of the Baniya Community and their Immense Contributions

The Baniya community played a role in enhancing Delhi’s scene. These smart traders and entrepreneurs took advantage of the abundance of produce and fragrant herbs from the Neher. They set up their businesses in the markets of Chandni Chowk creating a range of dishes influenced by the unique qualities of Neher water and its flavourful nature. These Baniya stalls gained recognition for their chutneys that combined local flavours with exotic spices and ingredients.

The rich diversity of Delhi’s population has also made a lasting impact on chutneys. Each community that has called Delhi home has contributed its chutneys reflecting their unique tastes and cultural traditions. From Punjabi-style chutneys to tangy tamarind-based ones favoured by South Indians, Delhi’s chutneys represent the city’s vibrant cultural tapestry.

Today, as we venture through the bustling streets of Delhi, we can witness the enduring influence of Neher a Fez, on culture. The streets of Chandni Chowk still resonate with tantalising aromas from sizzling kebabs and zesty chutneys while chaat vendors continue to delight our taste buds with their creations.

The Rise of Spice: A Taste Revolution

When we explore the annals of history we stumble upon Christopher Columbus’ encounter with peppers in 1492. What initially sparked his curiosity soon led to a revolution in India within two decades. The fiery allure of these peppers quickly spread from one kitchen to another, forever reshaping the landscape.

Chilli peppers gained popularity as an addition to dishes due to their versatility compared to the black pepper. They thrived in soil and climate conditions with effort. While the Portuguese were hesitant about incorporating chilli peppers into their cuisine, Indian kitchens wasted no time in embracing their potential.

Peter Martyr, a historian who lived during that era once pondered the significance of peppers by stating, “...when it is used there is no need for pepper.” During this time Indian composer Purandaradasa hailed chilli peppers as “...the saviour of the poor and enhancer of food; fiery when bitten.” India swiftly responded to the arrival of peppers. By the end of the century, India had become a source of these peppers that eventually reached markets in Germany, Britain and Holland.

The Homecoming of Chilli Peppers

The journey within India for peppers can be traced back to their entry point, in Goa. India has become a producer of chilli peppers, in the Deccan region, specifically Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. These regions are known for cultivating types of chillies like Byadgi Ellachipur Sannam, Guntur Sannam and Hindupur, which add flavours to Indian cuisine.

Delhi holds significance in shaping traditions especially when it comes to a concept called chaat, which was introduced during the Mughal rule. Chaat, meaning “to lick” in Hindi, is a fusion of flavours. Each dish offers a combination of tanginess, sweetness and savoury elements.

The Mughals not only excelled in grandeur but also made valuable contributions to culinary innovations while prioritising health. They introduced chaat as a blend of ingredients that included chutneys known for aiding digestion. Chutneys played a role in Mughal cuisine beyond taste; they helped balance the richness of Mughlai dishes.

As chaat spread throughout India, it underwent variations. Each region added its touch by incorporating chutneys to infuse tangy and spicy flavours into their dishes. These chutneys played a role in enhancing the chaat experience and establishing it as a part of street food culture.

Contemporary Chutneys in Delhi

Delhi’s food scene has always been a melting pot of traditions and ingredients brought in by various communities. They have all contributed their stories to the evolution of chutneys in Delhi.

When it comes to chutneys, Delhi offers a range that reflects the traditions of different regions. Punjabi chutneys are known for their spicy flavours, often featuring garlic as an ingredient. On the other hand, South Indian chutneys have a milder taste with coconut as their base, offering flavours. An excellent example of this evolution is the momo chutney, which was introduced by a community in Delhi alongside momos (a type of dumpling). This fusion combines chutney flavours with spices resulting in a delightful blend that perfectly complements the delicate taste of momos. Each community adds its touch to these chutneys making Delhi’s food scene even more vibrant and diverse. The Deccani influences on the gosht ki chutney are unique.

The Mir Bakawal (Chief Taster and Head Cook in the Royal Kitchen)

While discussing Delhi’s journey, it is crucial to acknowledge the heroes behind the scenes who play a significant role in shaping its cuisine. Mir Bakawal, the talented head chef for creating and innovating with chutneys, carries the task of preserving these condiments’ legacy while also introducing new twists. Their expertise ensures that every meal in Delhi is elevated by these accompaniments.

Their commitment to perfecting chutneys goes beyond passion; it is a service they provide to the city of Delhi. Whether it’s a street side snack or an extravagant family feast every meal benefits from their skills. The flavours they create not only accompany dishes but also elevate them to new heights. They understand that chutneys are more than condiments; they are enhancers that can truly transform a dish into something. Their boundless creativity opens up possibilities.

Whether it’s infusing mint chutney with a fusion of flavours, or giving a twist to the tamarind chutney, the Mir Bakawal is at the forefront of culinary exploration. They value staying connected to their roots while aiming for horizons and exploring all the possibilities.

Mughal Tales of Chaat

Amidst the streets of Delhi, there are tales from the Mughal era that depict stories of camaraderie and indulgence. These anecdotes shed light on how the Mughals delighted in chaat with accompanying chutneys savouring the blend of flavours that still linger today. As we relish these street food delicacies, we connect with the heritage left behind by the Mughals. Indulge in a taste of history.

In conclusion. Delhi’s culinary journey serves as evidence of its cuisine’s resilience and adaptability. From the Mughals’ introduction of chaat to combinations like momo chutney, Delhi’s diverse range of chutneys exemplifies its spirit of diversity and innovation.

Chutneys have a place in Delhi’s scene as they contribute to the harmonisation and enhancement of flavours. They serve as a reminder that food’s not about nourishment but also about delving into and appreciating the rich tapestry of history, culture and taste.

Zaiqa E-Hindi hun main,

Chutney naam hai mera.

Dekh mera zauq-o-shauq

I am Hindi by taste

Chutney is my name

Discover my pleasure and delight