Cooking Mediums
Back to Our Roots
Traditional Cookware
We live in a country which offers so many healthy cookware options that can be used in the kitchen, but do we? No, it’s all taken for granted. UpperCrust, older and wiser advises you to turn back the clock. Revisit your roots, use traditional and sensible mediums; iron, bronze, copper, brass, eeya, soapstone… even mud pots! Sure to make a difference
Text: Farzana Contractor
Talk to anyone who knows and understands the importance of old-world wisdom and they will immediately espouse the goodness of cooking in ironware, especially cast iron. Or brass, or copper or bronze. They will even advocate cooking in good old mud pots. No, they won’t crack up on the stove. They are made from special, sticky mud and seasoned well. Of course you can’t go banging them in a fit of temper tantrum! For that you can grab any old non-stick pan, which shouldn’t be in your kitchen in the first place and give vent to your anger, slam it to your heart’s glory, then throw it out! To be honest, I don't know why people are still using Teflon-coated pots and pans. These do give rise to health issues and mess with your mind. Seriously, I have done away with every piece of non-stick cookware that I ever purchased, even the ones which I picked up on my sojourns abroad which said so and so levels of coating! Bad for health, for sure.
For years, I have also been drinking water from silver. Ever since I was presented with a family heirloom, by my eldest sister, Faimida Apa. She said it was good to drink water from a silver surahi, in a silver glass, makes the heart strong. I believed her and have been doing so, now for 40 years. The naksh-nigari design-embossed surahi, made from soft and pure silver kept next to my bedside has taken many a tumble and is now dented, down but not out! I also like drinking tea from a silver pot. There are things you do for the pleasure of it, too. And it is the ensuing positive vibe from such simple pleasures that contribute to your overall well-being.
So why is what we cook in, beneficial to our health?
COOKING IN CLAY POTS
Let’s begin with the age-old method of cooking in mud pots or clay pots. The most ancient Indian traditional method of cooking that offers numerous health benefits. Firstly, the porous nature of clay allows moisture and heat to circulate evenly enhancing flavours of what’s cooking inside. Clay pots are alkaline, which helps balance the pH levels of the food. They also retain essential nutrients that might otherwise be lost in other types of cookware. Slow-cooking at its best, these mud pots retain heat for a very, very long time thus allowing for meat to tenderise slowly and evenly, infusing flavours deeply. And the best part, they are eco-friendly; made from natural materials, they are bio-degradable, the need of the hour in the present environmentally unfriendly way we live in. Apart from India, there are many countries that continue to use clayware. Morocco comes to mind (tagines with their slow-cooked stews) and Mexico which makes dishes like mole and beans in clay pots.
COOKING IN IRON UTENSILS
Well, cooking in iron increases our iron intake. This happens because small amounts of iron from the pan leach into the food. It’s good especially for those who have an iron deficiency. Unlike non-stick pans which can release chemicals when heated, or worse, overheated, iron is free from synthetic coatings.
The difference between iron and cast iron is the former is a pure element and the latter an alloy containing 2 to 4 % carbon along with silicon and manganese. Iron is soft and malleable and cast iron hard and brittle, and more commonly used not only because it looks good, is better finished, but also because of its high retention of heat. Like, simmering and slow-cooked food works best in cast iron. As for iron kadhais, you see them being used all over India at every street corner. Giant ones, whether it's to fry batata wadas and samosas or jalebis and malpuas!
Whether iron or cast iron there are precautions to be taken. Iron has to be seasoned. Perhaps for novices this is a deterrent. But actually there is nothing to it, once you understand the procedure, get the hang of it. A successfully seasoned pot or pan, once ready, believe me, makes you feel so good, it’s akin to having drunk a superb glass of champagne on a warm summer morning.
So what does it involve? Well, seasoning involves nothing more than coating the pan with a thin layer of oil and heating it. And wiping it, very carefully with a paper napkin or soft cotton cloth, and repeating the process a few times. Once that is done you take peels of some vegetable and stir it around in the pan. You wash it in warm water, no soap, wipe it dry and repeat the oiling and heating ritual. And start to use the pan regularly. The trick is to never leave it in the sink when done. Always wash and dry thoroughly. In time the grey of the cast iron becomes black and you have a perfectly seasoned, totally non-stick pan. I have to add, eons ago, I first saw Busybee use an iron pan to fry eggs. Splendid outcome, how he liked it, sunny side up. Except when he was done, he just wiped the pan with a newspaper and put it away! What? No washing? Not even just hot water? I was aghast. “Nope!” he said. “Water will take my seasoning off, make it rusty,” he replied!
So, do get yourself an iron pan, pot, kadhai, immediately. To make it easy for you, let me guide you to Null Bazaar where I went to shoot these images for you. It’s a treasure trove out there. Believe me, so inexpensive and so much choice. Especially if you have a farmhouse and want to use the stuff there. Null Bazaar is just off Duncan Road near Gol Deval on one side and Mohammad Ali Road on the other. This visit of mine made me a proud owner of a heavy duty tawa on which my chappatis are now roasted.
Word of caution; you never cook tomato, tamarind, lemon, or anything sour in ironware. This is because it strips the seasoning off and makes your food taste metallic. And never forget the drill. Cook. Wash. Dry. Occasionally, season again. Heat. Oil. Wipe.
COOKING IN EEYA VESSELS
Discerning cooks, or those who know better, always make rasam in utensils made of eeyam, which is a pure tin, a single metal not an alloy. Eeya chombu is a traditional vessel used in Tamil Nadu households. Especially to make rasam, the all important part of Tamil cuisine. They also set curd in it. So why eeyam. What is the speciality of eeya chombu rasam? Well, cooking in this medium renders a special aroma and takes just 15 minutes to cook in! It is said it maintains “kappa’’ and improves not just the taste but your overall health. Helps control diabetes, balances the phlegm in the body, makes your skin glow, even affects your intelligence. Well, no harm there then whether or not it does make you more intelligent. Belief is everything. Positivity starts in the mind. So go online, buy some eeyam. But keep in mind there are fraudsters around. And nor does every manufacturer sell pure eeya chombu. Since pure tin is highly expensive, unscrupulous manufacturers do add lead to it which makes it toxic. Not good at all. So it is safest to buy it from the source, the traditional craftsmen in Tamil Nadu.
Word of caution; precautions have to be taken when cooking in eeya chombu. You must NEVER put an empty pot on the fire. Fill the vessel at least halfway with liquid or even three quarters before placing it on the stove. The flame should always be on low and you cannot leave the stove even for a moment. If the flame goes over the point of liquid within or the pot gets overheated, the vessel could just melt. Yup! You read right. MELT. Pure tin is a very soft metal. That’s how they make these beautiful, little pots in the first place. Melt tin and then allow it to cool and harden and then hand-beat it into the desired shape.
The different shapes have different names; Vennaithazhi, adukku, kinnam. I am a bit clueless as of now if the shapes have anything to do with the cooking procedure or it’s just a personal preference. However, I do like the vannaithazi shape, which tapers at the top, looks elegant. I have just one in my kitchen and that’s quite enough.
COOKING IN COPPERWARE
Families of yore always invested in big copper pots, which were used especially for cooking during festivals and other celebrations. The reasoning was simple. Copper is among the best conductors of heat. It ensures even cooking and precise temperature control. Even the taste of the food, it is said, gets enhanced, especially when food is cooked in these copper pots on wood fire. That apart, copper is an essential mineral for the human body playing a vital role in various physiological processes.
In modern kitchens today, you see copper vessels of every shape and style adding to the aesthetic and rustic charm.
However, one must keep in mind that copper reacts to acidic food and causes a metallic taste, and can give rise to health concerns. Copper cookware also has to be lined, coated with tin (called kalai). Modern copper cookware is also inlaid with steel, but that does beat the purpose, even if it looks good on the stove!
The downside is that maintaining copper is quite a task. It requires constant polishing if the metal has to keep shining. Application of soaked tamarind works best in keeping the metal from tarnishing. It is also recommended that you use only soft sponges and non-abrasive agents to wash the dishes after use.
COOKING IN BRONZE UTENSILS
Bronze has been used for cooking for centuries due to its unique properties and benefits. It is an alloy metal that’s primarily made of copper and tin. Typically it has 88% copper and 12% tin. It could also include aluminium, nickel, zinc. Bronze is actually better to cook in than all the other metals since over time it develops a natural patina which acts as a non-stick surface much like iron. This in turn allows you to cook with less oil, making your food healthier. Bronze utensils also have microbial properties that help inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria on food.
Like copper it offers excellent heat conductivity which ensures even heat distribution which helps food cook uniformly and reduces chances of hot spots. Absolutely conducive to slow cooking. Bronze cookware is incredibly durable and with proper care it can last for generations. Its sturdy construction makes it resistant to warping and denting. So never mind the high cost in acquiring a few bronze utensils, we recommend you go ahead and buy some. A medium-size uruli is perfect to make curries that require shallow cooking. For deep-frying, a kadhai with handles will do just fine. A pot to make tea and a pan to fry in will complete your set. The spatulas and ladle are often handcrafted with attention to detail and make cooking that much more pleasurable. My advice is, next time you go to Kerala, go bronze shopping.
COOKING IN SOAPSTONE
Last but not the least there are the soapstone utensils. Not commonly used and not much is known about it, but soapstone cookware is used all over the world, especially in Brazil, where it is engrained in its culinary culture. Just as it is in India’s Tamil Nadu, where it is known as kalchatti. They are used to make curries and gravies. These vessels are prized for their ability to enhance their flavour of food.
Soapstone, also known as steatite, is rather fascinating. It is made from a metamorphic rock primarily composed of talc, which gives it a smooth and soapy feel. It also contains other minerals like magnesite and chlorite, making it dense and heat retentive. That is probably its best property. It retains heat exceptionally well, keeping food warm for long period of time. This makes it ideal for slow-cooking and serving it directly from these attractive dishes. The best part is the surface of soapstone is naturally non-stick and requires no chemical coatings, just a seasoning before its first use. Which involves greasing the cookware with vegetable oil and heating it over a low flame to allow the oil to penetrate into the stone.
If rustic charm in your kitchen is a look you like, nothing better than a few pots and pans, griddles and grills, mugs and cups made of soapstone. You even get a pizza stone to bake your own crispy crusted pizzas at home. The best material to set curd is in …you guessed right, a soapstone pot!