Eating Out - Gaylord
Gaylord Classic & Timeless
It is Bombay's iconic restaurant, born 68 years ago, and going strong. UpperCrust's pick of its 100th quarter, Gaylord deserves every foodie's respect and love
When my editor asked me to review Gaylord I was at first a bit befuddled, not having been there recently, and then I immediately got nostalgic. Gaylord for me has been a restaurant I visited regularly as a child. While at school at Cathedral, this was the one place one could get good pastries back in the 1990s when they started their famous outdoor bakery serving chicken puffs, stuffed croissants and artisan breads. I can’t remember when I last went to Gaylord for a meal, but it must be at least three decades ago.
In my head Gaylord was an iconic restaurant in Bombay at an iconic location which had seen its best days and was now known more for its breads and pastries rather than as a serious food destination. However, I stand corrected. Things have changed. Gaylord has been reinvented by its third-generation owners – Dhruv and Divij Lamba. They have taken the mantle to reform Gaylord into a restaurant for today, yet keeping the charm of its past and its rich heritage alive. Says Dhruv, "We are absolutely delighted with the positive response to the Gaylord renovation. Our goal was to breathe new life into the space while preserving its historic charm, and we are thrilled to see how well it has been received. Many of our customers have shared enthusiastic feedback, praising the blend of modern amenities and classic design. It’s been wonderful to hear how much they appreciate the refreshed atmosphere, and we are proud to have created a space that people truly enjoy."
Founded in 1956 by the Ghai and Lamba family this was an extension of their culinary journey, which started pre-independence when they started Kwality in Delhi. This was followed by Gaylord again in Delhi, and then their first venture in Bombay was at Churchgate where present day Gaylord stands.
At its peak Gaylord had 12 to 13 franchisee restaurants across the globe including restaurants at Mortimer Street in London, Dubai, Hong Kong and Japan. Over the years these restaurants gradually wound down and now Gaylord in Bombay is their flagship restaurant.
They have recently renovated the interiors of this restaurant. This could not have been an easy space to work in. The al fresco dining part of the restaurant has a number of restrictions for any significant renovation, but I love the new cane furniture and there is a certain brightness to this area with the adjoining pâtisserie and cake shop, which is yet as inviting as it was when I was in school.
A major upgrade has set in. Maintaining the art décor character from the 1950s Gaylord has been renovated to a very high standard. I loved the large chandeliers, with the mezzanine floor adding lots of character. Using the mezzanine floor they have essentially converted the restaurant into two distinct spaces. The ground floor has more dining space with well-lit tables, pastel colours and lots of photographs from the illustrious Gaylord past. The mezzanine floor has a more Art Deco-bar-like character with red velvet seating booths, slightly restrictive in height, yet it adds another character to the restaurant. This is a wonderful intimate space for about 20 people and if you like old- style interiors then you will not be disappointed.
There are black and white photographs from Gaylord’s past across the walls of the restaurant where you can see images of previous prime ministers, rockstars like George Harrison and Ravi Shankar and multiple Bollywood personalities which add character and perspective to this iconic restaurant. Sunil Lamba, the second- generation Lamba to run the restaurant tells me that this was the “it place” for the Bollywood crowd back in the '70s.
I was pleasantly surprised to see that on a Thursday evening the place was full. Mr Lamba tells me that they have had a very loyal following for the last number of decades, who keep coming back to this restaurant because there are certain things on the menu that they have never changed and patrons love to come back for what they think Gaylord does best.
The staff is attentive. The uniforms have an old-world charm, almost like a Harry’s bar-like appearance. Some of the staff have been there for two to three decades, if not longer. You realise that this is a family enterprise where even the staff feels part of something bigger than themselves and there is a warmth, which comes from the heritage, and definitely from the culture the owners are inculcating into the restaurant.
Their menu is extensive, and it starts early in the morning with breakfast, light bites and sandwiches, and then of course you have the lunch and dinner menus.
In the '50s and '60s they served Indian, Continental as well as Chinese cuisines, but for the last few decades they have dropped the Chinese and now concentrate mainly on their Indian as well as Continental fare. I asked our server to bring the dishes which have been present since the beginning of the restaurant; signature dishes, which were possibly introduced by Gaylord to the city.
Before we go on to the old and established fare we did taste the newest addition on their menu, which they are rather excited about. The Palak Chaat. It’s a dish I have had before and this one was particularly well-executed. The palak was fried so deftly that there was no grease or residual oil. The yogurt, the mint chutney and the sweet chutney added enough tang with the chaat masala to make this a nice amuse-bouche.
Our next appetiser was the Waldorf a la Gaylord salad. I am told that Gaylord was one of the first few restaurants to introduce the Waldorf salad to Bombay. A mixture of celery, apple, grapes and mayonnaise, this is a fresh salad and done well. It was accompanied by another signature dish of Gaylord, their Prawn Cocktail. Fresh prawns served with a perfect cocktail dressing on a crisp shredded lettuce with a boiled egg. What’s not to like about this. I am usually very disappointed when the prawn cocktail has too much dressing, drowning the flavours of the lettuce and prawns. This one had just the right amount of cocktail dressing allowing the prawn flavours to shine through.
From the tandoor we tried the Gaylord Chicken Kebab and the Mutton Seekh. The chicken kebab was possibly one of the most tender kebabs I have had in the longest time, wonderfully marinated with a light mustard and cream marinade and roasted in the tandoor to perfection. The mutton seekh was happily devoured by Farzana Contractor, which means that this was probably meeting her standards if not exceeding them.
From the Continental side we had the Grilled Prawns with peri-peri and butter sauce. The king prawns were juicy, fresh and sweet, well-balanced with the saltiness and spiciness of the peri-peri marinade and a beautiful lush butter sauce to help it down the gullet.
Our next course was the Lobster Thermidor, Shepherd’s Pie and the Chicken a la Kiev. All these are signature dishes for Gaylord. The Lobster Thermidor was delicately cooked, served with mushroom and cream sauce with white wine, baked in its shell with cheese. I am a great fan of the Lobster Thermidor. Served with grilled vegetables and a mashed potato, this was a clear winner. It’s a tricky dish to cook. If overcooked, the lobster gets chewy and unless the Thermidor is made well, it can either taste too acidic because of the residual wine or too creamy because excess cream has been used. The Gaylord Thermidor is superlative. The lobster chunks are sweetish and cooked just enough to leave a crunch to them. The sauce and the cheese were perfect accompaniments to the mashed potato, delicately rich.
Very few restaurants in Bombay manage to do a good Chicken a la Kiev. Another dish which is particularly difficult to get right. The coating has to be sturdy enough to hold the chicken and the butter within, but not so thick that it overpowers. The chicken should not be overcooked, it should be just right so as to maintain its softness and hold on to the melting butter within. This one is a delight because as soon as you cut it, the melted butter and cheese gently ooze out. The batter was crispy, the chicken delicate and the butter and cheese a beautiful accompaniment with the rice. This is their signature dish and correctly so. You will find it difficult to find a better A la Kiev in the city.
The Shepherd’s Pie was possibly the weakest dish of the day. A traditional shepherd’s pie has a rich meaty flavour from the meat broth and wine or Guinness in which the meat is stewed. At Gaylord, this has been Indianised, and I understand why. The traditional pie is not to everyone’s liking and has never been a favourite of mine. At Gaylord, the mince lamb is tempered with Indian masala and a likely tomato base. It’s neither a traditional shepherd’s pie nor a good Indian kheema dish, left somewhere in the middle.
Though full, we now shifted gears to the Indian part of the menu with their signature Butter Chicken, Rogan Josh, Lasooni Palak served with lachedar paratha and butter naan. Mr Lamba tells me that the Butter Chicken has remained unchanged since the days the restaurant was opened. There are multiple opinions of what the ideal butter chicken should be. There is no consensus about it, but everyone knows what theirs should taste like. My version is the one served at Gaylord, slightly sweet with the chicken perfectly tender and the kasuri methi aftertaste in every bite. The Rogan Josh was good and I am told that the chillies sourced by them are truly good Kashmiri mirchi. The lamb was tender and a good version of this traditional dish.
For dessert, I asked Mr Lamba to recommend his favourite dish at Gaylord and he told me that ever since he was nine years old, when this restaurant opened, he has always had one favourite, the caramel custard. Based on his recommendation this was the dish for us. It isn’t his favourite for no reason, this is a great way to end the meal.
As we rounded off the meal, I felt silly for not having come back to this restaurant in years despite it being so close to where I live and so familiar to me. I think my prejudices of what this restaurant had possibly become prevented me from visiting one of the few iconic restaurants of Bombay with true heritage. I must say I have ventured to many more restaurants for poor versions of the Thermidor, A la Kiev or even butter chicken.
With the new generation reviving this brand and restaurant, the genuine effort to rejuvenate the restaurant is obvious. Just as you can tell by the crowds that this restaurant has remained a favourite with patrons for over five to six decades. With the third generation of Lamba’s new efforts, I am sure they will be adding plenty more patrons and fans. The décor is welcoming, plush and luxurious and I loved the fact that they have kept the heritage of this restaurant alive.
There is so much on this menu one has to try, it would take quite a few visits to tick all of it! The Chicken a la Kiev and the Lobster Thermidor are worth a visit on their own. The Chicken Kebab and Butter Chicken warrant yet another visit.
Very rarely is one pleasantly surprised and happy to have been proved wrong. My expectations when I was told to cover Gaylord were indifferent at best, but after the meal I was buzzing with the rediscovery of an old icon.
Gaylord
Mayfair Building, VN Rd, Churchgate, Mumbai 400020
Mob: 0 86572 80340