Bombay Buzz

Bombay has restaurants that have changed the face of dining over time, be it roadside or 5-star. With an evaluation of 25 years, we serve you 10 of Bombay’s most celebrated eateries, across the spectrum

Text: Lyle Michael

When you think of Bombay’s dining out scene today, you think of the entire gamut for the Maximum City, one where everyone is eyeing a piece of the pie, pun intended. You have meals that cost an arm and a leg to street food that is unmatched anywhere else in the country. That's Bombay!

We recall featuring Lower Parel a decade ago as Bombay’s foodie destination, with 100s of eateries set up for the office-goers and the celebratory diners and the café-aficionados, which is the perfect example of what the city can offer under its roof. Today, you have more such destinations, like BKC – with restaurants that are mostly expensive and pubs that are packed to the brim on weekends – and Andheri & Bandra – with eateries that open and shut before you can say Jack. Sure, there are those that continue to draw hungry hearts in serpentine queues like Hearsch Bakery, with its chicken mayo roll ever popular. It's over a century-old, when the German baker J Hearsch handed it over to the Fernandes’ who still own the brand. And let’s not forget the Portuguese-style four-storeyed Candies which has been in the business for over 25 years!

While bakeries and cafés do Bombay justice, ours is otherwise quite the late-night city – though we went through an impasse with curfews running as early as 10 pm for last orders – with establishments catering to the young and the restless or families wanting to get in a chilli ice-cream at Bachelorr’s on Marine Drive or a falooda milkshake at Haji Ali Juice Centre, by Worli Seaface.

The nightlife, though, is still a tad conservative, as compared to earlier when bar-hopping and clubbing had us up till the wee hours…To think of those days of Polyesther’s, Velocity, Athena, the iconic Fire N’ Ice which revolutionised the way people grooved and Blue Frog which gave live performances a platform never to be seen again. Of course, you have Sabira Merchant’s Studio 29, of the ‘70s, but those were the glory days and nightclubs now have dwindled to the millennials and Gen Z preferring to have intimate meals or dining experiences that involve drama at the table. Think Smoky Sangrias at Smoke House Deli across the city – a brand started by serial restaurateur, Riyaaz Amlani, who changed the face of ‘community’ drinking and dining with his Social all over the country. 20 years to this date! Though not 25 yet, we mention these game-changers for that’s what they are.

And who bigger than the eccentric duo who brought European cuisine into mainstream Bombay dining, with Olive & Indigo. Creative, ingredient-forward menus, driven by chefs and restaurateurs who knew their stuff, going way beyond white-sauce pastas and margheritas. The concept of a delicatessen emerged with Indigo and continues to run from select locations while the restaurant shuttered in 2018. Tragic, but a great run.

Delis are one concept but Bombay really has its heart set on its bakeries, those Iranian and Persian ones that still stand the test of time, changing in no way, shape or form. What you see is what you get; take it or leave it. We’re talking Britannia – where their berry pulao garners fame the world over – and Kayani and Sassanian and Iranii Chai Café and Koolar & Co; though Bastani – bang opposite Kayani – shut long ago due to a family dispute. Kheema pao, jam puffs, custard pillows, bun maska, mutton cutlet and Irani chai are intact.

Cafés, more the European and the coffee-driven, have become a big phenomenon in Bombay over the past 25 years, with the latest entrant coming in from Calcutta, with its fuchsia signage in place, facing Gateway. Take a look at our Calcutta Calling for more.

Meanwhile, Bombay Buzz has icons like Leopold and Mondegar, set in stone more so after the Terror Attacks of 2008 and Shantaram’s escapades. We’ve got restaurants like China Garden (1983) by Nelson Wang for authentic Chinese fare and Khyber (1958) by the Bahls with still just the one location in Kala Ghoda, setting a standard for Mughal cuisine in a fine-dining ambience. The Great Wall at The Leela has stood as a go-to Chinese eatery in a 5-star, since 1986, and you have Gaylord, old-world and timeless, serving its Chicken a la Kiev just the same since 1956.

Thalis are big in Bombay and we cherish Thaker (1945), Chetana (1946) and Rajdhani (1985). When in the mood for the most delicious pav bhaji, we go stall side, to Sardar in Tardeo (1966), and Cannon, at VT station, is still going strong (1975). For hardcore vegetarians, you have long-time choices that have remained consistent in their Indian fare like Samrat (1972) in South Bombay. 

Last but not least, you can get your Mughlai, rich and oily as can be, from old-timers like Noor Mohammadi – over a 100 years old – and seafood Maharashtrian-style with their rava-fried bombil made famous since 1989, at Gajalee.

Lyle Michael is a Bombay boy, born and bred. He may belie the image of a food writer given his slight frame but he's dined and wined all over the world.

Leopold Café

Busy and buzzing, that’s Leopold – Bombay’s vintage, long-standing café, stationed in the same spot in Colaba since 1871. Serving Continental fare with Mughlai and Chinese thrown in for good measure, this eatery continues to be packed to the tables, most times of the day. Farzad Jehani and Deenyar Irani probably never knew what they were gifting our city.

Those tall beams, mirrors and mirrors on the wall – some still concealing the bullet wounds from the horrific terror attacks of 2008), curios from travels the world over and frames such as The Beatles on their famed Abbey Road crosswalk, along with those large pitchers of draught, perfect for chill time with your pals, are what define Leo’s. 

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, teatime… Leo’s is open to all, and if you just can’t wait for a table, take away their divine desserts to enjoy in the comfort of home. The Red Velvet Cheesecake and the Hot Apple Pie are what we keep coming back to.  

Mahesh Lunch Home

If you’re thinking of traversing the Konkan coast for some Mangalorean fish curry, the kind you can lick your fingers over, you need not go further than your closest Mahesh Lunch Home, established by SC Karkera. ‘Serving you since 1977’ with its first outlet in Fort to four more in Bombay, one in Bangalore and Poona each, as well as Dubai, Mahesh has set itself up well against the seafood contenders like Trishna and Gajalee, to name some. Their claim to fame: Gassis – curries for the uninitiated – and prawns in an unforgettable butter garlic with pepper sauce!

Gassis like the prawn go well with a neer dosa and a beer on a hot Bombay afternoon – no shortage of those! Fish tikka comes with a choice of four sauces: Hyderabadi, malai, pepper, red masala, and the kori rotti – traditional chicken delicacy with crisp roti that you soak in the curry and lap up.

Chinese and Punjabi are very much on the Mahesh menu, just in case you want to deviate from the norm – why would you! A little nugget of trivia: Mahesh was endorsed by Busybee, the first food writer of the country. The proprietors say, but for Busybee, they would not have reached the culinary heights that they have.

Trishna

Standing well-established since 1991, by Ravi Anchan, in a quiet lane of the art district of Kala Ghoda, the seafood eatery has all but stayed intact, untouched and expanded only to one other location! So famed and receptive were seafood lovers to their authentically scrumptious array – whether locals or tourists – that the folks just had to take it international – to London!

We always go back to our first year of UpperCrust when we featured the now late film producer, Ismail Merchant on the cover. Where? In Trishna. Eating what? What else but their Lobster in Butter Pepper Sauce. He was quoted as saying, "I love their fish, love the way they do it, the pomfret particularly," and went on to order some Jumbo Pomfret which is served with a variety of spices. Visit and you will discover, and indulge, and go back for more. Trishna sells three types of crabs, tandoor, sukha and masala, but they also have them in Szechwan, with pepper, chilli garlic, and in wine sauce, with just some salt and butter.

Vegetarian dishes are very much on the menu, but you know you go to Trishna for the fish in all its flavourful glory, above all else! If you do not favour fish, the Chicken Fried Rice with Bamboo Shoot Mushroom is delectable. The dishes that augur well for squid lovers are the Peri Peri Squid and the Charcoal Grill Squid. And for the shark fan, Shark Masala.

Olive

To stay strong and withstand the perils of restaurant closures in an era of standalones, and more, opening and shutting at the snap of a finger, is no mean feat. Which is why AD Singh, serial restaurateur, and creative genius, has to be applauded for his vision with Olive Bar & Kitchen – Mediterranean in a setting that is unparalleled and still as welcoming as when it set up shop at the turn of the Millennium. Today, Olive has mushroomed to other locations in the city and outside, and food lovers are loving it.

With that iconic blue door, a summery feel, like a refreshing breath of cool air, with its clean, whitewashed walls and window panes, trees lit up with fairy lights, pebbled pathways and sun-dappled courtyard, Olive retains its cosy character.

Chef Chirag Makwana has been at the helm for a while now and brings new dishes to the fore such as the Mushroom Risotto and the Za’atar Chicken. Old favourites run the gamut from a Goat Cheese & Potato Canneloni, Slow-roasted Belly of Pork and an Elderflower Panna Cotta, which is a must! They say their Turkish Eggs will have you poaching for more: go ahead and put taste to test, we say! 

Café Madras

Early, one fine Sunday morning we geared up and rode our bicycles – helmets in place – from Town to Matunga, just to breakfast like the kings, on South Indian staples at Café Madras. Alas, early was not early enough for the wait times at this Bombay icon were already in place and we decided to shift to Guru Kripa, a little less crowded then, albeit as popular, for its dal pakwan since 1975.

Café Madras, by brothers, Devrath and Jaiprakash (Gopal) Kamath, has been a crowd-puller since the 1940s, with its signage intact. Just the smell of the freshly brewed filtered coffee is enough to wake the senses! Piping hot sambar and chutney accompany the dosas, idlis, vadas, and the Madras Dahi Misal and the upma with sheera are delights to treat yourself to.

The appams with stew make for a wholesome, delicious meal when dining at lunch or dinner time as Madras is open till 10.30 pm. Closed on Mondays, just in case you decide to head on down early on a weekday holiday!  

Gallops

The sunset is quite unparalleled than at this exquisite and old-world fine-dining restaurant at the Race Course. Grand foliage and an arched wooden portico with views of the Bombay skyline, skyscrapers and blue skies when it’s not a smoggy day, private cabanas and temperature-controlled outdoor dining services… Perfect for when you want to pop the question or celebrate your Big Day on a posh yet intimate scale with simple and elegant décor – the kind that the young ones like nowadays.

Gallops, by Rahul Malik and Jasmine Singh in 1986, brought forth the concept of a high tea menu and since then, has raced ahead, today maintaining a steady pace as one of Bombay’s must-visit standalones in a beautiful setting.

 The Indian and Continental menu have not changed much over time at Gallops, with signatures like Jaituni Paneer Tikka, Truffle Mushroom Penne, Khade Masala ka Murgh, Afghani Subzi, Fettucini Genovese Ala Buratta, amongst others. Sundowners work perfectly well here and brunches where you and your girl gang can sip the afternoon away on Mango Bellinis.

Golden Dragon

Peking Duck, Scallops, Soft Shell Maryland Crabs are served at this premier Sichuan restaurant by the Taj Group, ever since 1976. Yes, you are still being served in Narumi crockery, with gold brush strokes, and those delicate ivory and wooden chopsticks with hints of embedded oyster shell, though it might have lost some of its sheen when you consider the opulence of today’s Chinese standalones. Yet, that said, Golden Dragon at Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai will remain one of the most feted 5-star restaurants in the city, especially for its vast vegetarian fare.

Executive Chef Amit Chaudhury ensures the quality and consistency of the food served at Golden Dragon is top notch. Shredded Asparagus with Pepper, Baguettes with Water Chestnuts and Burnt Chillies, Lotus Stem and Asparagus with Sweet Chilli Sauce are all laid out for you. The Soft Shell Crab on a bed of 40 button chillies will take the spice to the next level, if you’re up for it.

Chinese tea comes from their compact array of eight varieties and dessert ranges from traditional pancakes to a Beijing
Milk Cake with coconut crumb. Don’t leave without a Truffle Edamame Dumpling, or two!

Thai Pavilion

They have truly led the Thai revolution in Bombay, since 1993, and held their own in this competitive business of one of the most popular cuisines to have blossomed in our country: 65% of Indians love Thai food! They have not just retained their character of a homely and understated dining establishment in a 5-star – yes, they did undergo a renovation which announced their comeback in 2007 – but are adept at introducing new menus and seasonal trends to entice diners from all over. Thai Pavilion at Taj President (now President, Mumbai – IHCL SeleQtions) has been a beloved eatery across the board – whether under the long-serving hands of Chef Ananda Solomon or currently, upon the strong shoulders of Chef Uddipan Chakravarthy.

Start with the Raw Mango Salad with Water Chestnuts and the Foie Gras with Sea Asparagus and Mango Sauce, move on to the Steamed John Dory with Coriander, Chilli, Peanut in Tangy Sauce and finish off with the light and delicious Diced Water Chestnut with Coconut Milk.   

Thaker Bhojnalaya

Where do we go for an office lunch when we’re in a festive mood? A cab ride away to a busy lane in Kalbadevi, to feast to our heart's content on unlimited Gujarati fare. Serving you authentic Gujarati thalis since 1945, Shree Thaker Bhojnalaya has been a food lover's haven for VFM food that's scrumptiously good.

Now in the hands of owner-head chef Gautam Purohit, Thaker keeps the crowd coming for lunch and dinner with portions after portions of a variety of chutneys, dals, farsan like the freshest of dhoklas, papads, curries or shaks, and samosas to be polished off with rotla, puri, bhakri.... And dessert like fruit custard and aamras, and basundi. Of course, buttermilk is a must to start off your meal!

They made it to the World's 50 Best Restaurants with several a food critic raving about the food, served in an ambience that is packed with air-conditioning now installed and waiters running around barefoot coaxing you to eat some more.

Copper Chimney

North Indian food, rich and redolent of flavours that carry memories of recipes that have been passed down through generations…Copper Chimney rules the roost, ever since its launch in 1972 by JK Kapur, who had migrated to newly independent India at the time of the Partition. Now, under the able hands of his son, Sunil (Joy) Kapur, it has come a long way, from the time it opened its first outlet in Worli to today, with eight brick and mortar eateries, one delivery kitchen in the city and a well-established presence in other metros as well.

The tandoor takes centre stage at Copper Chimney. The paper-thin roomali is also done in a wholewheat option and the kadak roomali is a signature twist, with choice toppings of spices, seasonings and cheese. Achari Whisky is a must-try drink with a drop of spicy mango pickle, goes delectably well with the Smoked White Pepper Chicken Chops. The Sarson Broccoli is a treat in itself. Feast on the 21-Spice Blend Rogan Josh, you must!

Recipes that have stayed the course since Copper Chimney began carry forward to a variety of sweetmeats. You can choose what you like but the Muzaffar takes the cake, bearing a striking resemblance to the phirni!