Cruising Away: 25 Port of Calls

Even as Zeyna and Khalid Ansari were boarding Seabourn Quest in Barcelona to start their own quest on a 25-country cruise, a pallet of top-grade champagne fell into the sea, while being loaded. It was like the breaking of a coconut on auspicious occasions in India. What a way to say cheers!

Text: Farzana Contractor

Hmm…. What can you say about a couple who goes on an expensive, exclusive European high-end cruise lasting almost three months? That they have arrived??!! But that they already had, since forever! Khalid Ansari, journalist and newspaper proprietor has helmed his babies; Mid-Day and Sportsweek for the longest time, and is used to basking under the spotlight, centre-stage. He may have given it all up, now, but the lifestyle doesn’t change. Even if life does, as it has for him, for the better, with the entry of Zeyna! A quiet force of a woman he met in Sydney, right at the turn of the Millennium, exactly at midnight, even as the iconic fireworks over the harbour began and he promptly fell in love. Khalid pursued and then married the lovely Zeyna, 13 years ago at a friend’s home in Mahabaleshwar. A quiet and intimate wedding with just four of them, going on to lead a life likewise; settled, quiet, intimate, in blissful harmony, cruising along, contendedly…

Good for Khalid, that in Zeyna, he found a perfect match. Intellectually stimulating with diverse interests, reserved and discerning, quiet but determined. And a superb travel companion, even if they don’t like the same things on their sourjurns. They don’t have to, right?

“Yes!” agrees Zeyna, who prefers small towns and villages, local eateries and cafés to Khalid’s preference for bustling cities, posh restaurants. Zeyna, who is a vegetarian, who may eat fish sometimes. Zeyna, who is grounded and an animal lover, who has been a finance controller with large international firms in Sydney and London, where she was born. “Quite by default,” she candidly smiles and enlightens. “My parents were refugees, seeking some sort of security, in the UK, and I happened to have popped out there!”

Khalid has always been a Bombay boy, with a patriotic father who was part of the freedom struggle for India and who started the Urdu newspaper, Inquilab. But more than anything what defines Khalid, is his love for sports. Cricket, especially. As a young man he had started Sportsweek and gone on to promote sports in India, enthusiastically. Even today in his 80s, at his home dinners, the conversations always centre around sports and you will likely bump into Farokh Engineer, down from London, or meet Sunil Gavaskar, Dilip Vengsarkar, Ravi Shashtri… Actually, even an offspring or two. The last time I was there, I met Angad, the handsome son of Bishen Singh Bedi.

I don’t know how many times Khalid may have traversed the earth, in his long and interesting life, Masha’Allah, but suffice it is to state that he has never missed attending and covering every Olympic Games from 1972 until 2008. You name it, he has been there, done that. Munich, Beijing, Los Angeles, Barcelona...

And then there have been wanderlusting travels for the Test matches in Australia, Africa, the Carribeans and God knows where else. Khalid only laughs and adds, “Yes, I have been passionate, still am, about cricket. Test cricket, mind you. I am a traditionalist, not a 20-20 man, which is akin to being a Britney Spears fan and not a follower of a Beethoven symphony!” Well Khalid, you are a class apart and not just where cricket is concerned.

So let’s get down to the 88-day cruise, now, shall we? What made this couple undertake this mammoth cruise which would deter the most, hardcore sailors and die-hard holiday makers?

“Firstly,” begins Khalid, “We like this form of holidaying. It’s so easy-going, once on board, you have nothing to worry about. Everything is taken care of. It’s totally stress-free.”

“All you do is study the course, where you are heading, docking, exploring. All you may worry about is the weather!” Zeyna adds, “For me, cruising is pure escapism. One just becomes ‘institutionalised’ as one doesn’t do anything. Each day is planned for you. Also, for a while one does get cut off from what is going on in the world, which is beneficial to my sponge-like brain.” That apart, they tell me the real inspiration for the cruise was the time of year (June, July, August, when it pours and pours in Bombay), the innumerable, irresistible, attractive ports of call, all over Europe, the Middle East and North Africa and very few sea days. “Also, the fact that, at our ages one doesn’t know when the day will come when we may be unable to visit Europe again, so we try to squeeze in as much as possible while we are fit and able,” say the Ansaris with furrowed brows albeit smiling.

Anyone who has been on a cruise will know there are enough activities and ‘classes’ on board as the ship sails between ports to keep you engaged. Did the Ansaris indulge in anything interesting? Says Zeyna, “I wish I could say we joined classes, but we are not ‘joiners’. We are selective about people and activities. But yes, we gained a wealth of knowledge and experience from the people we met, from what we read and the places we visited. Inestimable! But, to quote from just one day’s entertainment, we had an ‘abs’ class, mahjong, bridge, art, dance, even boat building classes, will you believe it! There was chess, afternoon tea, knit and stitch, ‘name that tune’ competition, dancing at sunset, classical music, post showtime melodies followed by Boogie music – and if that wasn’t enough, a casino and slot machines until the cows came home!”

Everyone has their favourite spots on the boat. For Khalid, it was the Observation Deck, the Club Lounge, library and the gym. For Zeyna, who loved the scholarly talks by eminent speakers, it was spending time with fellow passengers or strolling on the deck, by herself finding peace and quiet, or perhaps sitting somewhere where it offered a good view. “That said,” says Zeyna, “We both loved the fantastic evening post-dinner entertainment of various kinds including headline performers from Broadway and the West End. It was something not to be missed.”

One would understand that on a cruise of this nature; expensive, luxurious with limited number of passengers, it would mean the profile of the people on board, apart from everyone being wealthy, would be of a certain standing. Interesting people from different walks of life, did they make any new friends, ones they might want to keep in touch with, any acquaintances that would culminate into friendships?

Khalid replies, “There is always some we would like to keep in touch with, but realistically, geographical distance and pace of life in Bombay makes it difficult to meet or even keep in touch after we return home. That said, we are in fairly regular touch with a couple of erudite speakers who we befriended on cruises.” Zeyna’s take, “What we enjoy is that people don’t know each other’s backgrounds, and are not particularly interested in knowing about backgrounds, so it’s very much an egalitarian situation where everyone is on an equal footing. Appeals to my semi-socialist leanings.”

What is nice is when you are invited to share the Captain’s Table at dinner. How was that? I ask Zeyna. “Our Captain, Joris, was very sociable and was on board with his wife Elena. Very down-to-earth, cerebral but also fun. Sadly, he had to leave for medical reasons – but the Chief Officer and Hotel Manager, Roland, were no less hospitable.”

Food on board, whether at the Captain’s Table, lunch or dinner, or all day long, is probably the most important aspect of a cruise. The Ansaris, though not foodies, were not disappointed. Says Khalid, “5-star cuisine on board, including a 6-star speciality Mediterranean restaurant, Solis. Fantastic choices, no complaints. I particularly enjoyed the charcuteries on offer when the chef went shopping in the small towns bringing back unique cheeses, cured meats, olives, tomatoes, etc.”

And Zeyna continues, “Khalid was in prawn heaven. The chef would bring local fish back from the various ports, so there were always new fish experiences. You see, on most cruises we go, Khalid is almost always the sole Indian passport holder on the guest list and the kitchen staff, which has many Indians chefs, are always eager to comply with every request of his. Though he is a fish and chips man, whenever he felt like desi food, Goan prawn curry or suchlike, it was right there for him! So it was good.”

I learned that about every 10 days on board Seabourn Quest, they had an Indian Market night with everything Indian in their expansive buffet section. Indian food, the Ansaris inform, has become extremely popular, especially with the Brits and Aussies. Also, with a day’s notice anyone could order Indian food for the next day. Oh… nice to know that. Perhaps, UpperCrust did help in putting Indian cuisine on the world culinary map, these past 25 years!

“What about the merry tipple? Tell me about that which keeps the world spinning!” I ask them exuberantly. Zeyna is quick to elaborate, “Oh, drinks! The bar served top-end wines and alcoholic beverages, no limits. In the downstairs bar there were two sushi chefs at all times. And if one really wanted to forget about life, bar service was available 24 hours, as was room service.”

Is that not fantastic? In the room, as well, they would give each guest a bottle of their favourite tipple. It was replenishable at will and ad nauseum, which was expected to be taken home. To be able to order whatever or whenever they wanted through room service... it’s insane, unbelievable. All of this included in the fare, of course. But the thing is, you don’t have to reach out for your credit card or go digging into your purse. Or even carry one. No bother of any kind. All you have to do is find your sea legs as you make your way to the casino, after a merry time at the bar.

Both Zeyna and Khalid are unable to single out any port or city or town that they liked best. Each port had something different to offer, and interesting in their own way, they beg off. Suffice it is to say that as mentioned earlier, Khalid prefers the bigger, the tantalising cities and their pace of living. Conversely, Zeyna prefers the smaller, prettier and more unique places that aren’t so touristic. “For me, the bigger cities are starting to blend as one, in that one finds the same kind of shopping, food, etc, whereas the smaller places offer more localised food and shopping.”

As for which monument or historical sites they liked best or were impressed with the most, they both go, “Too many to name, honestly, especially since, apart from Europe, we also dropped anchor in iconic places in Egypt and North Africa which are world-famous with the wonders of the world.” Can’t blame them. How do you pick one or even five or 10 from the 100s they visited? Dumb question, mine!

However, what was on top of their mind, the day we sat discussing the cruise, was Barcelona, a city they both like. Says Khalid, “Among our favourites would have to be the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona with its breath-taking Gaudi architectural design, interiors and amazing stained glass windows. Started in 1882, it is the work of genius, Antoni Gaudi. Today more than 140 years later, the work continues but is expected to be completed next year.”

Khalid, by the way, throughout the 88-day cruise was dispatching posts to his friends on his WhatsApp group, with his observations and experiences, titbit info and such like. Once a journalist, always a journalist. His posts and the images he shot on his phone camera are now finding their way to a coffee table book. Attaboy, Khalid, you’ve done us proud! Zeyna smiles away at the memory and confides, “To be honest that was the most surprising part. Khalid didn’t get bored and enjoyed his lengthy time on board. In Barcelona itself, as we embarked, he got so excited and passionate that he was bursting with an obsession to share our experiences with our friends on his exhaustive broadcast list.”

Did they face any challenges or unexpected situations during the cruise? “Fortunately, no,” answers Zeyna. “The only piece of disappointment of note was the last-minute cancellation of our call at enchanting Sorrento.”

“The world-renowned Amalfi coast was among the most looked-forward-to destinations for most of us but, with the city beckoning us from a tantalisingly close distance away, the captain decided to steer away from the high winds and choppy seas and give Amalfi the miss on to the next destination because of our inability to disembark.”

However, the notoriously fickle Mother Nature made more than ample amends later as we cruised along, when we were treated – courtesy a pitch-black night as backdrop to a dramatic nature’s feast for the senses, with a spectacular display of son et lumiere, when the volcano at Stromboli, off the Italian coast, started spewing volcanic ash in full splendour!” Adds Khalid, “That was mesmerising. We couldn’t have asked for a more dramatic compensation in nature’s glorious scheme of things!”

So how does one prepare for a cruise of this duration? Does one take half a dozen suitcases? “Gosh, no!” exclaims Zeyna, “We travel very light, only two suitcases and one carry-on: one suitcase for our clothes, and one half of the other suitcase for toiletries, shoes, etc, leaving one half for shopping, which we find irresistible. We carry only electronics and medication in the carry-on.”

“Complimentary laundry on board for ‘loyal’ guests is a boon. But on this trip we had to buy one more suitcase to accommodate all our purchases, especially that delicious German Lubeck marzipan and super shoes from Spain, Italy and Croatia.”

So then, what advice would the Ansaris give to someone considering a long cruise? Zeyna reiterates, “Travel light. One always finds lovely clothing, shoes and toiletries to buy along the route. The only items I take for the entire cruise would be medications… and just-in-case medications like antibiotics, etc.”

“Also, book early,” she warns, “The fares are lower and you have a choice. We booked last minute and there were only two cabins available and both were near the front of the ship, which is the rocky section. Best to try and secure a midship cabin, halfway between top and bottom and front to rear, which is much less rocky.” Sound advice. Zeyna has now become a cruise specialist. When you learn the number of cruises they have been on, so far, you won’t be surprised. A little bird whispered to me the number is 35. Yes, you read right, 35 cruises!

Zeyna laughs, and charmingly adds, “Yes, we have been fortunate to go on so many. We have pretty much covered the whole planet except for Antarctica, which I would personally love to visit but having lived in the balmy tropics all these years, have no cold-coping skills.”

“We also often look again at the Caribbean which we both love and where Khalid has covered a lot of cricket, but two days to get there and two days back is very off-putting. It was easier when we lived in Sydney, which was close to Sylvan, New Zealand, where I grew up and not too far from the heavenly South Pacific. We had a memorable cruise there visiting Tahiti, Bora Bora, Rarotonga and other idyllic islands immortalised in the works of James Michener and Herman Melville.”

Continues, Khalid, “We both also love the wildlife of South Africa and will never forget South America, notably the unforgettable, spectacular Mardi Gras festival in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) which – you won’t believe it – we stumbled upon by pure accident. They are back on our bucket list. Someday soon, hopefully!”

The Ansaris are something else. They have been on these dozens of cruises and with different companies, but clearly for them, Seabourn is the company of their choice. They were certainly not disappointed, far from it, as expectations go. They candidly state they had an experience of a lifetime!

They overcame the physical strain of being on such a long cruise, in and out of ports, up and down the ship, treks into towns by using common sense. Zeyna admits, “We did skip a few ports, albeit not too many. For example, we found ones like Rome, which we have visited many times before, to be too far away from the port knowing it would be too exhausting to visit in one day. But we could not resist gay Paree, despite the distance, especially with the Olympics round the corner. Overall, it’s no strain really as one can pace oneself. The cruise ship is very accommodating and allows people to cancel paid shore excursions, at short notice.

“I have to comment upon the crew,” says Khalid. “They did a very commendable job. It was almost a one-to-one ratio, crew to passengers. The crew is invariably top-rate, highly professional, well-trained, and they rarely say ‘no’ to a request, if at all. Fact is they have not learnt how to say, ‘no!’”

So are you saying you undertake another mammoth one like this one, soon again? I burst out, in genuine wonder!

“I would, but hubby-dearest wouldn’t. As much as he enjoyed this cruise, I don’t think he would favour a long one again. Though he loved the time he spent writing, on board, what has unintentionally turned out to be a memoir, it was a pleasurable distraction.”

Almost three months on the sea, did you guys miss home at all, I query? “Not really – we enjoy living in the moment,” pat comes the answer, almost in unison. Hear, hear! Listen. Understand. Emulate. Do your thing. Life is today. Life is now. So get going, all you fence-sitters.

P.S. Zeyna and Khalid are booked on another cruise. This time to the East; Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Vietnam and Cambodia. Before that they are off to Kashmir, to see the autumn leaves fall. And after the cruise, they go to meet family and friends in Australia and New Zealand.

Bon Voyage and fare thee well, Amigos!