Bangalore Bites

We frequently hear of Bangalore as a mushrooming food city. UpperCrust picks 10 from a myriad of eateries over the evolution of Bangalore’s foodscape, that have stood the test of time for about 25 years 

Text: Lyle Michael

Few cities have transformed in the last 25 years the way Bangalore has. The green expanses that earned it the sobriquet of Garden City no longer exist. The somewhat Arcadian way of life that led to it being described as a Pensioners’ Paradise has also all but vanished. It is now a city of tech parks, steel-and-glass high rises and 30-floor apartment blocks. It’s a city constantly on the go, as its young working population commutes to work and travels for leisure.

The way a city eats and drinks is a good indicator of its culture. Bangalore’s F&B industry now caters largely to its young, working population that considers eating out its main source of leisure and entertainment and relies on food delivery for daily sustenance. While 25 years ago the premium dining destinations were confined to the CBDs of MG Road, Residency Road and around, the expansion of Bangalore in every direction and the pain of commuting has led to each area becoming self-containing, with its own restaurants and bars. Whitefield, JP Nagar and HSR Layout now all have their own eating-out options and bars aplenty.

In the past, the 5-star hotels were limited to Taj, with its West End set amidst sprawling greenery and the one on MG Road, Oberoi, ITC Windsor and the later Gardenia and Leela Palace. Their speciality restaurants were where you went to on special occasions to splurge on gourmet dinners and champagne brunches. The mushrooming of other hotel brands, such as the Marriott and Radisson, have meant several more restaurants within star hotels. These have become most popular for their eat-all-you-want buffets which corporate dining groups seem to love.

Standalone restaurants that offered great experience arrived on the scene some 20 years ago. Notably, Olive Beach and cool places like Bombay Post, Indi Joe, Samarkand and Hypnos; the last four have all shut down. That is another aspect of the restaurant scene in Bangalore – the pace at which new restaurants pop up is matched only by the rate at which others shut down, which makes the restaurant scene one of constant flux.

One of the markers of this change is the variety of cuisines available in Bangalore. Italian is still much in demand and speciality pizzerias are doing roaring business. While there is a place for Indian-Chinese, Pan-Asian is the cool cuisine of the moment, with restaurants serving the range from sushi to pho and Thai curry. The millennial population’s craze for K-pop and K-drama has caused an upsurge in the demand for Korean restaurants and it’s trendy to gather over Korean BBQ. The smorgasbord of international cuisines has become larger with Vietnamese, Brazilian, Mexican and Turkish cuisines available.

It's heartening that in recent times, the regional cuisines of India have come into their own. In a marked contrast to the idea of Indian food being kebabs and cream-based curries, in Bangalore you can now feast on Kashmiri girda, Karnataka’s breakfast specials, Dindigul-style food, Mangalorean classics and Maharashtrian fare.

While old Bangaloreans hark back to the pleasure of taking an easy drive downtown to drink at their favourite old-fashioned pub and listen to hard rock, the city is now home to one of the largest concentrations of microbreweries. These are, by design, large format, accommodating anything upwards of 600 guests at a time in vast spaces. Some flaunt their over-the-top style with Greek architecture, extravagant water features and selfie spots. The food at these places is often generic; think nachos, pizza and fries.

Amidst this surge of brewpubs with their crowd-pleaser menus, there are chefs making an effort to showcase their imagination and prowess in intimate settings, paying attention to ingredients, their seasonality and sourcing while they curate tasting menus of exquisitely designed plates. In the Insta era, food cannot make a statement unless it has the makings of an attractive social media presence.

In a city where there are only a limited number of public spaces and recreational activities, going out for drinks and meals is seen as the primary form of leisure. There are takers for everything from 11-course tasting menus to evenings spent downing towers of beer and spicy wings. Alongside, home cooking is on the decline and ordering in has become the way to get your everyday meals. Biryani rules when it comes to the delivery business. It has now become fast food, the desi equivalent of pizza and burgers. There’s a biryani for every budget and occasion, in any quantity, never mind the quality or taste.

That then is how eating out has evolved and transformed in Bangalore in the last 25 years. Some changes have been good, others not so much. It would be interesting to see what the next quarter of a century is going to bring. Robots bringing your biryani home maybe?

She breathes gastronomy. A veteran writer and respected food critic, Priya Bala has authored food guides for Bangalore, and books that stand as culinary truth in the industry.

Koshy’s

The areas of MG Road, Church Street and St Mark’s Road have changed beyond recognition in the last 25 years. But Koshy’s remains, an iconic landmark adjacent to St. Mark’s Cathedral. Very little has changed in the 70-plus years of its existence in this restaurant and bar that began life as a bakery, catering to the Cantonment.

The old fans whir slowly and the servers in their white uniforms also appear to be from another time; many have been here for over 30 years and know all the regulars and their orders. Prem Koshy, who now looks after the family-owned business, is a familiar presence here on most days, chatting with customers, asking some to try one of his new dishes, like the kaya toast.

Koshy’s is more than a restaurant; it is a gathering place. At certain times of the day, tables are mostly taken by lawyers from the nearby courts. Journalists come here at the end of a working day for a beer or a few rounds of rum. Theatre artistes, movie critics, tourists, families, single diners, couples, senior citizens, everyone comes to Koshy’s. The coffee, served with sugar cubes and milk in silverware, is famous, as are the ham sandwiches. On Sunday mornings you can stop here for appams and stew or a lunch of prawn curry and rice.

Vidyarthi Bhavan

One of the enduring images of Vidyarthi Bhavan, the unpretentious Karnataka eatery in Gandhi Bazaar, is of waiters carrying a stack of 12 dose with remarkable ease and grace. Started in 1943 and catering mainly to the student population – hence the name – this tiffin room that is located in a bustling market and flanked by flower shops, was known only in the neighbourhood and to regulars until food media discovered it. Then, it became a challenge to get in and find a place, compelling the Adigas who own the place to introduce a token system.

Even after refurbishment, Vidyarthi Bhavan keeps its old-world charm. The menu is small, written on a board. The things to eat here are the kharabhath, the uddin vada and, of course, the famous masal dose, crisp, rich with ghee and filled with spiced potato. Wash it down with a glass of strong filter coffee and you may say you have had the Vidyarthi Bhavan experience. You will not be alone. Karnataka politicians, filmstars, writers and artistes come here for their masal dose fix. Apparently, Rajnikanth, an old Bangalorean, has come here in disguise for the same thing. He takes away his dose and eats it at a nearby park, away from paparazzi.

MTR

MTR’s nearly 100-year-old history goes back to 1920, when the Maiya brothers, Parameshwara, Ganappayya and Yagnanarayana left Kota, a hamlet near Udupi, famed for its temple cooking traditions, and made their way to Bangalore. The eldest of the three, Parameshwara Maiya, started a small eatery on Lalbagh Fort Road, Brahmin Coffee Club opened in 1924, serving coffee and idlis. After his death, the younger brothers took over the business. Yagnanarayana, or Yagnappa as he was called, displayed a remarkable affinity for the business and implement the high standards of cooking, hygiene and service he had seen on his travels abroad. He also felt that the word ‘club’ had elitist connotations. So, Brahmin Coffee Club became Mavalli Tiffin Room. In 1960, the restaurant shifted to its present location on Lalbagh Road. After Yagnappa, the business passed to his nephew, Harishchandra Maiya. MTR’s tiffin dishes such as the rava idli and the Sunday special of chandrahara, a rich sweet, became some of Bangalore’s most popular.

After Harishchandra Maiya’s passing in 1999, his three children, Vikram, Hemamalini and Arvind, stepped in, fully aware that they had inherited not a restaurant, but a legacy. While their father had never been in favour of expansions, the younger Maiyas decided they had to expand. Now, there are branches across the city and also in Singapore, Malaysia and London where customers can savour top-class masal dose, bisibelebhath and rava idli and get to taste nostalgia and legacy as well.

Corner House

Ask Bangaloreans what their favourite guilty pleasure is, and many are likely to say Corner House’s DBC. That’s Death by Chocolate for the uninitiated. A chocolate indulgence, if ever there was one, this one has chocolate sponge, ice-cream, chocolate sauce, cream and nuts. Begun in 1982, Corner House has grown – both in terms of its product range and branches – and holds its own against big national and international ice-cream brands that have entered the market. The quality of its ice-creams and the confections crafted from it have lured a vast number of customers; the consistency of the ice-cream experience keeps them loyal to Corner House.

This brand’s ice-cream flavours cover the range from plain Vanilla to Fig & Honey, Rum and Raisin, Rocky Road, Crispy Chocolate Malt and more. Then there’s a range of milk shakes and thick shakes and fruit sundaes, with the classic Peach Melba being done to perfection.

Other signature sundaes include Café Caramel and Brownie Fudge Sundae. Corner House makes an effort to be eco-friendly, encouraging customers to bring their own containers for takeaway ice-cream. The Corner House story is truly the triumph of a homespun brand.

Ebony

Rooftop restaurants and bars are aplenty now. But in the early ‘90s, Ebony gave Bangaloreans the OG above-it-all experience. Perched on the 13th floor of Barton Towers on MG Road, this restaurant goes on, its ambience and excellent food and drinks continuing to attract loyal customers.

Ebony has a windswept outdoor deck, and tables here are much in demand, particularly at dinnertime when you can watch the lit-up skyline of downtown Bangalore. There’s a nice old-fashioned formality to the place, with starched tablecloths, heavy cutlery and gracious service. On the menu are Indian dishes, with some outstanding ones from the Mudaliar community, an array of tandoor-cooked dishes and Asian favourites. Ebony’s kakori kebab and Arcot Mutton Chops are a must-try. The sumptuous Maharajah Platter, laden with kebabs, is perfect for large groups. There’s Nasi Goreng, Tenderloin Massaman and Peranakan Laksa, if you want toeat Asian.

Wrap up your meal with the very British Sticky Toffee Pudding that hits the spot. The drinks and cocktails are excellent, and a great time is guaranteed at Ebony. Next door is 13th Floor, equally popular and splendid for a night out.

Airlines Hotel

Tiffin at Airlines Hotel is a quintessential old Bangalore experience, evoking nostalgia for a time when it was unspoiled Garden City. Here, you can still have an al fresco breakfast and coffee, under a gorgeous canopy of ancient trees. Airlines Hotel also happened to be Bangalore’s first drive-in restaurant at a time when they were in vogue. The reason for its name is lost in the mists of time, but some say it is because there was an office of Indian Airlines nearby. Regulars enjoy the outdoor experience, not minding that the furniture is basic and the service brusque.

The popular order here is the masal dose, crisp and golden, filled with potato palya. The Chowchow Bhath, a combination of upma and sweet kesari, is also a hot-seller. Airlines’ coffee, served in glasses, is always excellent. Coming here for breakfast after a walk or jog in nearby Cubbon Park is a delightful way to spend a weekend morning. Airlines Hotel’s clientele includes politicians and filmstars, so you can do a bit of celeb-spotting as well when you are here.

Sunny’s

Sunny’s is a landmark on Bangalore’s restaurant map. The face of this much-loved restaurant is its owner, Arjun Sajnani, also a theatre person and filmmaker. He and partner Vivek Ubhayankar started Sunny’s in 1992 and it has since grown from a tiny bistro to an upscale restaurant that attracts old Bangaloreans, out-of-towners and even celebrity guests. In three decades Sunny’s has changed address – it’s now in a charming bungalow on Lavelle Road – and opened and shut down branches. Through it all it has kept its reputation for good food intact.

Sunny’s is named after the Golden Retriever that was Arjun and Vivek’s pet. Returning from New York in the early ‘90s, Arjun decided to open a restaurant serving the sort of food he was used to eating there. Committed to quality, he would famously go to Russell Market every day to buy fresh produce. It made its way into the restaurant’s signature dishes such as the seerfish Anna with white wine and cream and the angel hair pasta with basil, garlic and chunky tomato sauce and the seared tournedos of beef with brandy and red wine sauce.

Sunny’s desserts are a hit, especially the Paris Brest filled with fresh cream and fruit and the sinful Devil’s Food Cake.

Nagarjuna

Nagarjuna, the Andhra chain, is now in its 40th year. Look at the swelling crowds outside any outlet on any given day, and you’ll realise that Nagarjuna’s longevity in an otherwise fickle market is on account of its popularity. Owner Mohan Reddy has guided its fortunes over the past four decades with an unwavering commitment to quality and the next generation, led by his daughter, the dynamic Meghana, now at the helm. Nagarjuna has grown to open branches across the city, but the taste and satisfying quality of its banana leaf meal has remained unchanged. The meal, comprising rice, podi, ghee, pappu, vegetable dishes, pachadi, sambar, rasam, curd, buttermilk, papad and sweet, is a delightful combination of fresh ingredients, spicy South Indian flavours and unlimited servings. This makes lunch at Nagarjuna a top choice for large family meals and office team lunches.

Its other offerings, such as the Chicken Biryani, Chicken Sholay Kebab, Vanjaram Fish Fry and Mutton Kheema Balls are all crowd-pleasers. Nagarjuna also has an efficient delivery service and the banana leaf comes home with all its many elements carefully packed.

Karavalli

To go to Karavalli at Vivanta by Taj is to be reassured about the beauty and value of something old and unchanging. This is particularly pertinent in a time when new places are opening apace in Bangalore, their themes and concepts so bizarre they provoke Instagram humour.

There’s outdoor seating amidst lush foliage and the soothing gurgle of water flowing into a little pool. This restaurant serving coastal cuisine has crossed more than three decades. So, everything from the food to the service has that burnished quality that can only be acquired with time and repeated practise.

The menu has also remained the same over the years, with a smattering of new dishes being added from time to time. The Karavalli kitchen also respects seasonality; in the monsoon there is patrode made from colocasia leaves and in November the restaurant hosts Aquafest showcasing an abundance of seafood. The Tiger Prawn Roast is a classic. The prawns are always fresh and of the best quality and the spice blend is just right.

The restaurant, under the supervision of the hotel’s executive chef Naren Thimmaiah, pays special attention to sourcing and it translates to goodness and great taste on the plate. For main course, try the Kottayam Fish Curry, a much sharper, spicier dish than the more popular coconut-enriched one from Aleppey. A wedge of bebinca is one way to end the meal. There is something utterly comforting about eating in a restaurant where you know exactly what to expect. The service, warm, welcoming and intelligent, completes the Karavalli experience.

Dum Pukht Jolly Nabobs

If sepia prints in frames, slowly whirring fans and buttoned leather chairs appeal to you, then Dum Pukht Jolly Nabobs at ITC Windsor encompasses all that. This restaurant, which is several decades old, is much awarded and well-respected. In a time when F&B outlets are massive and constantly seeking to embrace the hottest new trend, Dum Pukht Jolly Nabobs allows you to slow down and step back into the past, specifically the Colonial era. Located off the lobby of the ITC Windsor, this restaurant is decorated in a style that evokes that time. Instrumental versions of old Bollywood tunes play in the background while waiters, some of whom have the same vintage air of the restaurant, bring you the menus and make recommendations. It's not entirely accurate to call this a North Indian restaurant; it’s a showcase for carefully researched Anglo-Lucknowi cuisine, reflecting the elegance and richness of Awadhi cooking as it came to be influenced by the ways of the British Raj.

It's a small menu studded with gems such as the Kakori Kebab, shaped from lamb mince that must have the perfect ratio of meat to fat and a complexity of spices. It is worth going here just to indulge in this superb kebab. The gravies are listed as qorma, qaliya, salan and nehari, pointing to their nuanced refinement. The Shahi Nehari is a classic, to be eaten with layered warqi paratha or naun-e bah khummach. Then, there’s the Dum Pukht Biryani, which is a signature with tender mutton and fragrant rice.

For dessert, there’s Begum's Pudding, a baked confection of reduced milk and nuts and the rose-scented Gulabi Kheer.

Dum Pukht Jolly Nabobs is a place to rediscover the pleasures of leisurely dining.