Loya

Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai 400001
Ph: 022 6665 3278
Meal for two: Approximately Rs6500 + taxes, without alcohol

“Aao, Loya karte hai,” is how we were welcomed once seated at our ground-level table in the brand new Taj restaurant, a third over the country. The little jaljeera drink in a miniature soda bottle refreshes us as we scan the menu, exploring regions of the North of India, exhaustive, and all over the place, we must admit. But it’s the food we’re interested in most and the service which was top notch. Both highlights of a meal at Loya, the Modern Indian restaurant by Taj.

Loya has two levels to it and an al fresco area that overlooks the pool with palm trees and arches and brunch-like tables that make it a preferred dining destination for us. However, the busy and bustling indoor section was cosy enough, with the effervescent and well-trained Ushasi as our server and earthy interiors that aim to replicate the markets of Punjab, for one. The food, hearty North Indian, can get you in a tizzy if you don’t pace yourself and order just about enough to keep you happily sated, not overbearingly stuffed.

The Loya Chaat is the right Pella Swaad to start with. They say the thecha can get spicy but it truly wasn’t and the amaranth kebabs with a light potato filling, coated with amaranth seeds comes with a pomegranate dip that pairs very well. Seafood fans must try the Timbri Jheenga with a bhang jeera chutney while chicken lovers could choose the Lahori Murgh Tikka in a chilli marinade with a smoked carrot and coconut puree – the puree is what we relished the most here! Lamb, a must-have for you, then the Gosht ke Lazeez Pasliyan, with baby potatoes, stone flower and rose, and a kebab chini spice rub, awaits.

Vegetarians, you must feast on the baingan bharta, done at Loya, in an unusual manner, with kathal, served in a jar. The tangy Chakki Paneer and the Bhey Aloo, with lotus root, are treats, the former even bowling us, non-paneer people, over. The Amritsari Wadi Kulcha and the Gola Paratha go deliciously well.

You could skip the biryani, a gosht is what we tried, for the non-veg mains of the Kangra Khodiya Gosht, in a dark, walnut curry – sorry, ‘ink’ as Chef Farukh Shaikh informs us – requires sufficient space! And then, dessert! The cutest, summer solutions come in the four-flavoured kulfi pops while the very rich Badana Pearls presents a combination of rabri, pista and almonds topped with saffron foam.  

Loya is open for both lunch and dinner. If you have to head back to work post lunch, we suggest dinner, you will thank us, for sure!