Comorin

Text: Mohan Krishnan

There’re many reasons to visit Comorin. You walk through Nilaya Anthology in Lower Parel, indulge in high FOMO as you walk through the mainly Italian furniture/kitchen/furnishings, and realise that Ikea may be more your speed.
If you’re lucky, there’s a stunning design show – Vogue, Pinakin Patel … and cutting- edge Indian design products to delight your senses. You will have gotten your 3000 steps, and are set to eat. You walk through the Orangerie, enter the designer space of Comorin, draped sinuously along the curved building, and find a banquette opposite the blingy bar.
I ate at Comorin with two lovely young friends. It was a Wednesday evening, but by 8 pm, the place was full, and hopping with activity.
We had walked for an hour and a half, were ravenous, and attacked the small plates. Crab Anda Bhurji, with chilli toast. Chicken Liver Mirchi Masala. Haleem Bakarkhani with crispy onion. Mutton Seekh Kabab. All ticked the boxes.
Two innovative dishes – Dahi Batata Puri, with a hint of wasabi, and the Cheeni Malai Toast.
The Bombil Fry was kinda meh (this is the home of Bombay Duck, and you gotta get it crisp on the outside and melty inside). Ditto for the Green Chilli Prawns.
Chef Dhiraj is the Brand Chef of Comorin. "When I wanted to put wasabi in the pani puri, my boss said NO. We don’t do fusion. I pleaded, and promised that if people didn’t like it, I’d take it off the menu. It is now one of our most beloved dishes. One of our team members, who had worked in Europe, got the idea of creating a kokum aioli, which goes well with the bombil."
"The Cheeni Malai Toast has great origins. In Calcutta, it is available in many roadside stalls in the mornings, on hot toast, with a sprinkling of sugar. In Punjab, every home has malai in the fridge, and it’s eaten cold with bread, mostly without cheeni. Our dessert is a creative take."
"Indian Accent was already a huge success, and when a new space came up in Gurugram, Rishab Khattar decided that it would reflect the food that India eats on the streets, elevated to restaurant level. Comfort food that brings back memories. We had already decided on the direction, and the name Comorin gave us the Pan- India mandate."
"The Delhi crowd sees India as the North, and then are not too committed to the micro regions – the South is the entire South. We launched vada pao and pao bhaji in Delhi, great successes. We didn’t try vada pao in Bombay, but our pao bhaji has been a success here. In Bombay, we made the bhaji more masaledaar, and loaded up on the butter." In the old days, Sardar Pao Bhaji at Tardeo would boast of a full pack of Amul going onto each tava.
"From the South, we have the Chicken Pepper Fry with Malabar parotta, and the Andhra Gongura Chicken. We stay away from hyper “authentic” micro regional dishes. Our gunpowder idlis (am grateful he didn’t use the much misused word 'podi') bring in the lemon rice flavour into the idlis."
"There’s a big difference between Delhi and Bombay. Delhi people step out as large groups – 10 to 15 people. The joint family or family and friends ethos is strong. You see communal tables, with sharing plates. Even though Gurugram has many modular younger families, they also venture out in groups. In Bombay, we have one long communal table, and booths for groups of four or six, which is more the norm." We both chuckle about the raucous mock fight that always breaks out in Delhi, about who’s paying the bill.
"Our business plan was to open in Delhi with lots of corporate offices, which has led to a healthy lunch business. Nilaya in Bombay is a creative and unique space, tucked away in a giant office complex. We will be shortly starting a “lunch on the go” menu in Bombay – there is a demand for this. Not in Delhi, though." Comorin is very much a destination for dinner.
"What has kept me with the group for so many years? First, it is the love of my leaders – Chef Manish, and our CEO/MD. I get all the culinary freedom to innovate. This is my third stint with the group – I have left for short periods to get a different experience, and come back home. I have this bug – every two years or so, I want something new. My bosses understand this, and now throw new challenges at me all the time."
"Right now, I’m very involved with our Hyderabad opening. We are going in with Hosa, Fireback, and the All American Diner. This is exciting and a new challenge. Soon, there will be other cities, too."
"We all miss Chef Manish. He inspired us, mentored us, and has built a strong second line, like a true leader. We were ready to handle the challenge of his departure – Chefs Shantanu and Rijul for Indian Accent, and me for Comorin. We’re all doing well."
"I am not motivated by building a legacy. My main concern is to do my job well, to be true to the brand, achieve success, and the legacy will look after itself. As a team, we have lots of lived experiences that we share, stories that we tell. Life must go on, and we are here to build the future."
Great food. Good vibe. Fab people. I’d go back again.