Kerala Quarters

Bombay has always had great Mallu food, especially in the Fort area. BTW, as a pucca Madrasi, I feel entitled to call my Kerala brethren Mallus – it’s a term of endearment, and shorter than Malayaleeeeeee.

Deluxe and Taste of Kerala, tucked away in the streets that cobweb the Fountain area, have been long-time faves for those who want their Avial hit. I remember the activist lawyer Maharukh Adenwala first taking us there, with a warning – "It’s not fancy ya, but the food’s damn good." It was, and still is.

I was delighted to read about Kerala Quarters in Lower Parel, set in a bungalow of its own. So off I went with three friends, two of them hardcore Mallus, for a pig out, and we were very satisfied. Good vibe, and excellent food.

I was gobsmacked to hear that the founder is the hyper energetic food-preneur Pankaj Gupta, with Banarasi origins, Bombaywala to the core, and not a hint of South India in his blood.

"You don’t need it in your blood. I am obsessed with all South Indian food. Bombay is so cosmopolitan, you get the best of everything here. There was always good Kerala food in the Fort area, but it was delivered in a serious, slightly formal, “Aao, Khao, Jao” manner. The décor was functional, and there were no modern twists in the food. In Kerala they don’t give a fig for plating, the food is presented as is, and the beauty is in the taste. I wanted to create the vibe of a Kerala toddy shop – a “kallu shop” – with a fun, retro, cool vibe. The “quarter” is the symbol of the drinking culture, and we have created the classic quarter bar, with a fine-dining ambience."

Pankaj went to B School, got campus placement with Citibank, joined and quit three days later. "My college was not happy, but I knew that this was not for me. My family was in the business of trading in foodgrains and edible oils. I had joined at the age of 15, helped in transitioning to big government tenders, but it gave me no joy. I knew my heart lay in the food business. My family said that restaurants are for “Shetty Log”, we are Guptas, and this is not our field. Anyway, I started Oye Kake in 2010/11. Vegetarian Amritsari food, not the butter chicken and naan that people associate with the Punjab. Later came Taftoon, the food of the Grand Trunk Road from Kabul to Chittagong. And finally Kerala Quarters."

"I am not a chef. I can cook. I trust my palate. I have over 150 chefs in nine outlets, and over time, they have come to respect my instinct and judgment. It wasn’t easy – at first, I got pushback from the veterans. Now they see that I bring a new view point, and I always back up my opinions with examples, pictures and data. Today I have a team of three tasters, whose job it is to screen all the food ideas. This way, I can go back to enjoying food, instead of permanently tasting and judging. Great food must take you somewhere – to your home, your mum, to a good place. Within a few seconds, I know if what I am tasting is right – does it blow my mind."

When you read the menu, you are confronted with Mallu tonguetwisters like Ularthiyathu, or Kurumulaku. Fortunately, the dishes are translated into English. Which is a good thing, not just for the guests, but also the waitstaff. I nearly died laughing to hear an enthusiastic young fellow butcher the pronunciation of Urala Kazhangu. No bro, it ain’t 'kazhhangoo'.

Pankaj tells me that they have learned to be sensitive to the spice tolerance of guests – in the kitchen they have two levels – Mallu and Bombay.

The first time I went I was delighted with their Fried Pork Belly, the Calicut Mutton Biryani, the Tangy Chicken Wings marinated in tamarind.

The second time, the Potato Stew took me right back home, to my mother’s cooking. I could have easily slurped down a whole bowl myself. The grilled pineapple chunk that lay on top of my cocktail glass, was done to perfection, crisp on the outside and soft, though the cocktail was a little drowned out with pepper.

The banana chips were very moreish. The Coin Parotta with Pineapple Khichdi was the perfect starter morsel. The Mango Curry was delicious, though I’ve had better surmai. The only off note was the chicken, which was a tad tough, perhaps overcooked.

What they call “touchings”, the Kerala chakna or tapas, that accompany the alcohol, are terrific. I am happy to see many restobars giving the regional drink-itisers a chance to shine. Who needs cashew nuts, or popcorn?

The Coconut Caramel with the strong undertow of jaggery, and that sharp hint of cardamom, is a taste I still crave.

I asked Pankaj the three dishes he wants every newbie to try.

"My top four veg – Vegetable Mango Curry with Red Rice, Coin Parotta with Pineapple Khichdi, Paalkatti Pepper Roast, and Koon Kochulli Kurumulaku (mushroom and shallots pepper fry)."

"The top four non-veg – Paaniyarachi Ularthiyathu (pork pepper fry), Venadu Paal Konju (grilled prawns in coconut spiced sauce), Nool Parotta with Buff Roast, and Calicut Mutton Biryani."

He’s just turned 40. He has an Oye Kake in Hyderabad, and is now opening Bangalore. What next? "I want to do Mangalorean food, and then Tamil food, which to me is a symphony of spices… I think the circular grinding stone is part of food culture all over the country."

Bombay is emerging as a great food capital. So many cuisines, each represented by restaurants that are best in breed. I can’t wait to see a real Kashmiri wazwan restaurant, Pista House level Hyderabadi food, Tunday Kabab quality Lucknowi khana… meanwhile, Kerala Quarters is there for your Mallu fix.  

Parotta and Mushroom Moilee	Kerala Thali	Pankaj Gupta

Mathuradas Mill Compound, Plot 126, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai 400013