Gallops

Text: Mohan Krishnan

Full disclosure, I love Gallops. Have eaten there since the early '90s, my wife, Mina’s 50th birthday was a party on the lawns in 1999, and I've been to many Navjotes here. Anytime we wanted a Chicken a La Kiev fix, it was off to Gallops. So what if you have to wait 45 minutes for the dish to be prepared. It’s time well-spent.

We were disappointed with the Kiev at The Russian Tea Room in Manhattan. When we visited St. Petersburg in 2019, we were taken to a “Café Stroganoff”, the usual tourist trap for cruise-wallahs. We ordered the Kiev, took one bite, looked at each other, and said, ‘Not a patch on Gallops’.

Yajush Malik told me that he had the same reaction when he ate at the upscale Café Zhivago, in Moscow. "Russian food is anyway bland, and this was made with unsalted butter!!!"

Gallops helped create the fine dining independent restaurant revolution in Bombay – it preceded both Olive and and Indigo by a couple of years. It was the first restaurant ever in the Mahalakshmi Race Course, catering to the super elite of Bombay and India – the racing fraternity. The regular demand was for the elegant British-style tea sandwiches, eaten daintily by the fashionistas wearing their hats and fascinators.

Gallops has always offered North Indian and Continental cuisine. They were open every night for dinner, and for lunch on race days. In the beginning, they didn’t even have a phone (the good old days, when getting a telephone connection was a major victory). Customers were mainly walk-ins, because no one could call for a reservation. As time went by, they got the phone, and were open for lunch each day.

Jasmine Singh, one of the two original founders, and “the boys” – her son Mikhail, and Yajush, son of the other founder, are the triumvirate who run Gallops. Yajush heads the kitchen, and is a magical storyteller in person and on social media. Mikhail is the intense, coiled energy, “make it happen” person. Jasmine presides over the finances, and preserves the legacy with an iron grip. She recalls the exclusive pre-Derby parties that Vijay Mallya used to preside over, and has fond memories of him as a genial and gracious host.

"Over 40 years, families have celebrated special events, running across generations. One of our guests got married here, his son’s Navjote was celebrated here, now the boy is getting married, and wants his favourites like Chicken Cecilia, and Bhuna Gosht on the menu."

"We got an email from a guest who was coming to India for a visit, and wanted her fave Lemon Herbed Chicken. She was so sad when we told her it was no longer on the menu, so we made it for her, just for old time’s sake."

"Everything is made in house – the breads, even the breadcrumbs… we only source nacho chips, the ice-creams, and kulfi from outside. In addition to the restaurant, we have a very successful catering business, in the garden area which converts to al fresco we have different offerings with different seasons; in the monsoons with cabanas, in the winter as open-air dining. For functions, there is the courtyard which is a banquet space."

Mikhail and Yajush told me stories of catering to the world’s top artistes, who perform at the race course. Phew! There are contracts with NDAs, spelling out exactly what the lead artistes like to eat, when, and how they want it presented. One artiste wanted potato chips with salt and vinegar. Gallops could only source a version with Himalayan salt. No Can Do. Mikhail went on a frantic two-hour chase around the city, just to find the regular salt version.

Between the three, there is constant discussion and banter, about keeping the balance between the old and the new.

Jasmine said, "In the old days, we used a lot of thick creamy sauce in our food, as a flavouring agent. The boys fought long and hard to get me to tone down the sauce. We compromised by offering the sauce on the side, so each guest could get as “saucy” as they want."

Yajush remembers trying to “jazz up” the Chicken Liver Pâté in 2016. It landed with a thud, and the classic version with aspic was brought back. It took them eight years, before they could introduce the new version, which is custom-plated beautifully with a range of six condiments, and crisp Melba toast. I was not too sure about the Pepto Bismol pink, but maybe that’s just me.

Yajush brought up the classic fried fish and tartar sauce. Jasmine firmly shut that down. "Our tartar sauce is just fine the way it is, our guests know it, and love it. Let’s leave it alone."

Both boys went to IHM, then worked in the hospitality industry, before they joined Gallops in 2013. They started on the “shop floor” – Yajush in the kitchen, Mikhail at the mâitre d’s desk. "They were our parents, but on the job, they were the boss."

"The top veg dishes we’d like a new guest to try – the Water Chestnut Chatpata, the Dahi Kababs, the Chilli Cheese Toast, and the Nachos Chilli Cream Corn. The top non-veg dishes – the Mutton Dori Kabab, the Nalli Nihari, the Yakhni Pulao and the Chicken Liver Pâté."

"We have lunch together every day and that’s how we keep evaluating our food. We have a large menu, because our guests come in large groups, and they know that everyone will find something they like from our options. Gallops is known for its big bold flavours – the regulars will find their favourites, and we have modern new dishes for the next Gen."

When Gallops turned 33, they did a celebratory menu, with prices the same as they were in 1986. Rs. 4 for a roti, and Rs.40 for chicken tikkas. The very first in line were nine women, all elite members of society, who had landed up in their Merc S class chariots, determined to show their love for their fave restaurant.

As they celebrate 40 years, I wish Gallops the very best for the next 40 and beyond. Frisky, as only a high-spirited thoroughbred can be, and timeless as a legend.

Gate No 1, Inside Mahalaxmi Racecourse, RWITC, Mahalakshmi, Mumbai 400034