Wasabi, Taj Mahal Palace

Text: Mohan Krishnan

When Wasabi opened at the Taj, Bombay in 2004, I was very excited. The first fine-dining Japanese cuisine restaurant in the city – from the Iron Chef Morimoto. He was Executive Chef at Nobu, before starting out on his own in Philadelphia.

At last, Bombay was going to be part of the global food scene. We ate there a number of times over the years, and watched it grow into the “special place” that you went to dine well, woo, or impress others.

You enter through the Harbour Bar, and can choose to walk up the red spiral staircase, or take the glitzy lift.

Wasabi takes your breath away. Sexy red lacquer frames your first sight, the live sushi and teppanyaki counters, beautiful Japanese joinery on the walls, the Tatami Room for intimate parties of eight, and lovely views over the Gateway. Not a hint of a ramen house vibe, this could hold its own in posh Tokyo or Paris.

We chose the seasonal non-veg Omakase Menu. In four out of the six courses, we were offered a choice. So, we got to taste 10 courses, which gave us a strong overview.

We started with the Hassun. The three small bites – edamame cooked to perfection with a dash of salt, the olive hamachi which swam down the gullet, and the salmon “taco” (a “lighter” taco please?).

The cold appetiser had a choice of two carpaccios – Yellow Tail and white fish. The white fish was delicately flavoured, the Yellow Tail had a hint of soy and heat. Both very light and a gentle start to the meal.

The hot appetiser had Shrimp Tempura, and Chicken Nanban. The tempura was everything it should be, including the dunking tempura sauce. The surprise was the brilliantly cooked chicken, sliced thin, moist with a crisp layer on top, floating in a pool of nanban-style sauce.

Our friendly server brought us fresh wasabi root, vigorously grated it on a wooden board with a piece of sharkskin attached to it. The faint aroma of the wasabi, the gathering of the wasabi pulp, and its placement in the little bowl – it was a ceremony in its own right. The fresh wasabi is imported from Japan, as is the board with the sharkskin.

Japan is the land of stylised ritual, and such a joy when it is performed at the table. I remember a chef in Japan gently drizzling an arc of salt on wagyu, as it cooked on a teppanyaki grill.

The delicious nigiri and sushi roll came with a “mama san’s” comfort style miso soup. The sliced ginger was a pop of freshness, and we had the newly grated wasabi and soy to dip into.

The maître d’ offered us a small break before the main course, which we gratefully accepted. A very civilised idea. Allow the gastric juices to recharge. Leave space for conversation, and some reflection. All tasting menus should do this.

My excitement was mounting, because now came the make-or-break dish for me. Black Cod Miso. Quality of fish. Check. Delicate miso flavour. Check. Cooked to perfection. Check. Joy to the world. Some of their fish is imported twice a week from Tokyo, and it shows.

The companion was the lamb chop, seasoned with Japanese shichimi, infused with a spicy and citrus flavour. Sublimely cooked; the chop melted off the bone, and the shichimi spice was so on point with the lamb.

Finally, the dessert. A sinful Chocolate Tart, and a Matcha Cheesecake. Both with delicious in-house cheese ice-cream. I am becoming a fan of these “home-made” ice-creams, because they are preservative free, and sing on your palate.

The vegetarian menu is extensive. There are interesting options like sushi without nori, Truffle Lillibud (from the lily flower), and Aona Goma-ae (a classic side dish with green leafy vegetables tossed in a tasty dressing).

A highlight is the 30 plus Japanese alcohol offerings, covering a range of sake, umeshu, and whisky – including the 100th anniversary edition of the Hibiki Harmony.

I’m going back again, to try the crab, the tenderloin, and the teppanyaki. Good news, I am no longer hankering for Nobu to open in Bombay.

Chef Shiga who presides over the kitchen like a samurai, is committed to integrating local ingredients, using sustainable seafood, and bringing in wellness with lighter ramen, and superfoods like seaweed and natto. "My goal is to honour the traditions of Japanese cuisine, while embracing innovations," he says affirmatively.

Wasabi’s veg menu is priced at Rs. 11,000 and the non-veg at Rs. 11,500. Alcohol extra. It is more expensive than the other excellent standalone Bombay Japanese restaurants, but the ingredients and cooking are superb, and the “Taj-ness” is on full display. It is an international experience, that I happily pay Rs. 20,000 for when I’m overseas.

Wasabi is for special occasions. You can be sure that your experience will be special.