Koishii

The St. Regis Mumbai

Text: Mohan Krishnan

For nearly 130 years, Japanese have migrated to Peru, starting as farm labourers. They integrated, and they thrived. Alberto Fujimori, of Japanese origin became President of Peru in 1990, his daughter Keiko Fujimori was elected President in 2026. 
All strong migrant movements carry with them the cuisine of their home country. So, too, with Japan and Peru.

Nikkei cuisine evolved within the Japanese community in Peru, using Japanese culinary discipline, and the distinct flavours of Peru. Maido restaurant in Lima, that is built on Nikkei cuisine, won the Number One spot in the World’s 50 Best in 2025.  

Nikkei cuisine is Japan + Peru, which makes it unique. Japan emerges through the precise knife work, raw and slightly seared seafood, robata grilling and miso, yuzu and Kewpie mayo. Peru shines through the citrus-led marinades, aji chillies, corn, quinoa, avocado, and a dancing range of sauces that pop.

Koishii is a lavish, stylish restaurant perched on Level 37 of St. Regis. There’s the adjacent Koi Bar, with great views of the Race Course, and the Coastal Road. Chef Willman Lan Thorne is Peruvian with deep knowledge of Japanese techniques. He promised us an unique experience, and he delivered.

The Koishii restaurant menu starts with ceviche, cut in chunks or cubes, and traditionally marinated in leche de tigre: tiger’s milk. Don’t panic – just lime juice, aji, onion, garlic and fish juices. The ceviche are robust and hearty.

Very similar, and more sophisticated, are the tiraditos – the fish is sliced very thin sashimi style – and looks like carpaccio. Peruvian origin sauces like aji amarillo cream, and rocoto chilli pepper, are poured over the fish slices. Classic Nikkei.

Pollo Huancaina	Salmon on Fire

Next there’s the Japanese quartet of sushi, maki, tempura and the robata specialities, each with a hint of Peru.

Then the mains, the larger plates, followed by dessert.

Our cocktails: One Night in Tokyo, and the Lycheekisu (just a delicious whisper of the taste of a crème brûlée) were downed in a hurry. We were hungry and also in a celebratory mood.

We chomped on the Shiitake and King Oyster mushrooms from the robata grill, basted in a very zingy anticuchera sauce, and crispy quinoa. Then came the Hamachi Ceviche, awash in leche de tigre, with crispy corn.

I loved the little hints of crunch embedded in both starters. The Peruvian sweet potato added a very pleasant flavour. The leche is made in house, with onion, ginger and garlic.

We moved to the more formal restaurant area – a small secret door takes you from the bar to the dining area. A sly little touch.

At the Penthouse	The view from Level 37

Off to the races. The Tuna Maki Roll, with shrimp furai, avocado, and wonder of wonders, little dabs of Kewpie mayo. Good, but not unique.
The Parma Tiradito, with grilled scallops, was one of the prettiest dishes ever, with a riot of colours and flavours. 
The Avocado Brasa came with garlic candy – tempura that looked like a delicate snowflake on top – they turned the dish on its side, and cut it into sharing portions. Gone in one gulp.
Drum roll please. From the mains came the Yuzu Miso Black Cod. The dish that Nobu made famous the world over, and Koishii makes better than Nobu, or any other restaurant in our city. A hit, we loved it.
The fresh cod was soft and yielding. The miso glaze glistened in the low light. It had formed a delicate crusty layer on top, and seemed painted over the entire fish. The colour and taste bomb came from the ginger stick, that I picked up and crunched on. 
Trumpets galore, as the Wild Mushroom (oyster, shimeji and shiitake) with fragrant Hikari rice was brought out. So deeply satisfying.
Cymbals crashed as the Rocotto Chocolate Fondant was offered. This was soft and slightly gooey with the fruity nutty note from the rocoto, a delicious scoop of ice- cream, and quinoa pop. A nice departure from the salt crystals that now appear on almost every dessert. Wiped the plate clean.
We topped off the evening with a Kissme cocktail – rum, caramelised candy and espresso – guaranteed to keep you dancing all night, unless you’re a Tam Bram, in which case it lulls you to sleep.

The good news. For two people, you could have our faves – the Miso with Black Cod, the Mushroom Rice and the Chocolate Fondant for about Rs 6500 + taxes. Let’s say Rs 8000 total – Rs 4000 per head. Drinks are up to you. 
A meal of this quality, in this décor, served with glamour and panache – why bother with an air ticket? Maido (World’s No 1 restaurant) recently did a pop-up at Koishii. It was an exclusive experience. Right at the 37th floor penthouse.

Watermelon Carpaccio	Lima To Tokyo	Veg Inca Maki