Fenix

The Oberoi, Mumbai

Text: Mohan Krishnan

The Oberoi has a splendid atrium.You look up from the lobby and see the whole hotel.

The Brasserie off the lobby was our home-grown Balthazar – a French bistro, without the menu written on the mirrors. Later it became Tiffin, before morphing into Fenix. It has long been our favourite restaurant… in the last days of COVID, we celebrated our 50th wedding anniversary with two dear friends; and got pictures by that gorgeous red piano.

The restaurant is the living room of the hotel, with great views of the sea through the floor-to-ceiling glass. Blissful in the monsoons.

It’s an all-day dining restaurant, and thank God it doesn’t do a lukewarm breakfast buffet. Any hot brekker dishes from the menu are made fresh to order. No tired scrambled eggs, and soggy toast on chafing dishes.

The full menu is based on a la carte small plates, that are designed for sharing and exploring. There are four cuisines embedded in the menu – Indian, Asian, Continental and Japanese. They have live sushi, robatayaki and tandoor stations, to add an interactive touch. Intriguingly, 40% of the revenues are drawn from Japanese food. This was not by accident. It was part of the original intent when Fenix was created, and the kitchen was designed with this in mind.

Executive Chef of The Oberoi, Mumbai, Kayzad Sadri explains, "There’s only so much butter chicken and chole bhatura that one can eat, even if it’s exquisite. Japanese food has the perception of being healthy, tasty, rich in vegetarian dishes. It’s also got a cool factor, that makes it an attractive dining out experience."

I suspect that they intend to get even more Japan-forward in their menu. They’ve just brought in a Japanese chef, “Jeff” Jefferson Yalung – who’s had vast experience in Asia and the Middle East, and knows how to cater to guests with different palates.

I asked about the mix between imported and local ingredients, especially for Japanese cuisine. Chef Kayzad is clear, "For our Japanese menu, if the fish is to be served in sushi, nigiri or sashimi formats, it must be imported. We are a warm country, and our fish is not suited to be served cold, or uncooked. Fish from our waters is best served cooked, and so we use it for the robata grill, or fried dishes like tempura."

I ask about the Himalayan trout, from the rivers in the cold hills up North. "The trout is excellent, but river fish has a hint of the river bed soil, that does not work. So, we use it for our cooked dishes."

The chef laid on a feast of Japanese food for me to taste. We began with the Avocado Taco – what a joy to have a crisp taco shell made of soy flour, unlike the doughy tarts I’ve had elsewhere. The filling of guac with the seaweed salad and cream cheese was the perfect light kickoff. Next was the Norwegian salmon from the robata grill, with the miso glaze, and the togarashi adding the slight kick.

Chef Kayzad added that the salmon comes from Japan or Norway, and it is fresh. The cold chain is preserved without it being frozen. They order twice a week, closely aligned with what they will use. "I get to inspect the fish as it arrives, without waiting for it to thaw."

The Spicy Green Lamb Chops were tender, with the togarashi and the sliced, pickled ginger adding an unique combination of spice, sweet and tangy taste.

The Dragon Sushi, with the prawn tempura, and the nine-piece Nigiri Fenix – I dived for the unagi and tuna – rounded off the meal. No, hold that thought.

From the wok, Chef Kayzad also summoned forth the most delicious snow peas, with white garlic sauce and black rice. What a fine finale. No space for dessert.

I have eaten gluttonously from the Fenix menu over the years. Fried bhetki with tartar, the Asian Clear Soup, the Goan fish curry, the fried calamari, the shikanji drink that I can guzzle down – all four cuisines are on point, it just depends on your mood.

The chef sums up Fenix with, "60% of our guests are local residents. And we have a very high ratio of repeat visits – usually every two weeks. They know “their dishes” and “their people”. So do I."

Tom Yung Soup	Asparagus Carpaccio	Robotayaki Lobster	Salmon Krudo