Dum Pukht

ITC Maratha

Text: Mohan Krishnan

“If you want to eat great Indian food at a 5-star hotel, the only place is ITC.” This has been the conventional wisdom for years.

Habib Rehman, the Head of ITC hotels recruited Chef Imtiaz Qureshi from Lucknow, and gave him the keys to the culinary kingdom. This was in 1979. He was amply rewarded with one hit after another.

Bukhara was the first restaurant in India where you had to book a few days in advance, to be sure of a table. Dal Bukhara has now passed into the lexicon, the raan, kebabs and naan are part of India’s food story. Queen Elizabeth II, Bill Clinton, Tony Blair were all fans, along with many other heads of state and dignitaries. Not to mention commoners like me.

Today, the Bukhara food is available in many ITC hotels, under the banner of Peshawri.

Dum Pukht was Chef Qureshi’s next hit, reviving the slow-cooking technique from the Awadhi royal courts. The Dum Pukht Biryani, the Kakori Kabab, the Warqi Paratha became legends, much imitated but never equalled.

Imtiaz Qureshi was the first ever professional chef to win the Padma Shri in 2016, for his contribution to the culinary arts. I spent an entire evening with him some years ago, and was charmed by his sense of play, joy, even mischief, as he reflected on his life.

We walked into Dum Pukht at ITC Maratha in Bombay, and were transported to Lucknow through the décor and the aromas. There is a lot of storytelling about the origin of this style of cooking. Dum means to breathe, pukht means to cook, the result is one of the world’s great cuisines. The Dum Pukht Biryani is a one dish meal comprising of rice, meat, vegetables and spices, placed in a handi, sealed with dough, and cooked over a slow fire.

Legend has it that it was food made for the workers, and the Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah was so entranced with the aromas, that it was introduced into the royal kitchens. Legend also says that the super soft food worked very well for the ageing royalty, who had lost most of their teeth. Historians do have a sense of humour, when they know they can’t easily be disproved.

The food came out in waves. To help us taste the range, we were served in small vatis rather than the full portion. My waistline, my trousers, and my belt, were grateful for this kindness.

The Dum Pukht Kakori – never has a kebab been so soft and tender. Minced almost to a paste, cooked to keep its kebab shape. A friend described it as being Lucknowi foie gras, with the flavour of cloves and cinnamon. There was raw papaya pickle, that added a hint of sweet, just as a champagne gelee takes the edge off a seared foie gras. Our own answer to a great French delicacy. The kakori came with sheermal bread, and the pairing was perfect. There were also mint chutney and raw garlic pickle on offer.
Next the jhinga. A giant prawn, that had the same buttery melt-in-the-mouth quality as the kakori. I was told that it’s from ITC Fisheries, primarily for export, and all ITC hotels use these prawns. I’d go back for another round just for this.
Third was the Murg Chandi Tikka, adorned with warq. A feast for the eyes and the palate.
The second wave had the Dum Pukht Dal (with the Haldi Paratha), the Murg Handi Qorma (with the Naan e Bah Khummach), and the Shahi Nihari (with the Khamiri Roti). 
The naan and roti pairings were on point, and brought a level of intensity to the whole experience. Each of the eight “breads” on the menu is distinct, and pairs well with the recommended dish. This is also true of the “sauce” base for all the dishes. It is intentional cooking at the highest level, and no hint of any generic mother gravies.
Then came the pièce de résistance. The Dum Pukht Biryani, steaming hot and exuding aroma that enticed me to a gluttonous attack. The Burhani Raita complemented the rice and mutton elegantly. We could only eat a bit, and had the rest packed up to take home. 
For the finale, out came a plate with three desserts. Shahi Tukra, a gulab jamum, and a saffron and pistachio kulfi. That Shahi Tukra was soft and pillowy, not a hint of any crust. The gulab jamun and kulfi were on a different level.

Chef Mohd. Asif Quraishi (no relative) spoke of the rigorous training process to be made the Head Chef at any Dum Pukht restaurant. "You need at least 20 years of experience making all this food at a very high level. I have been doing this for 26 years. This is Lucknowi food, brought to a very refined state, and made with consistency day after day."

I would recommend going to dine as a group of four, because this is a menu to be explored, and food to be shared. Don’t have breakfast, wear loose pants, and unleash the inner gourmand. You will leave knowing that you have tasted the best food of its kind. Dum bhar ke khao, and prepare to have a long nap after.

Dum Pukht Kakori	Naan	Dum Pukht Biryani	Chef Asif Quraishi