Dining with a Maharaja

Kunwar Hemendra Singh and Kanwarani Vrinda Kumari of Bhainsrorgarh created a beautiful meal for a select group of invitees in Poona at the Kitchen of the Kings, Taj Blue Diamond event as a part of the Royal Fables show

Text: Minoti Makim

Tall, striking and stylish, Kunwar Hemendra cuts an impressive and commanding figure with his handlebar moustache and royal composure. He is enthusiastic and passionate about food and works on reviving ancient family recipes as well as following newer trends and the evolution of royal Rajasthani cuisine. Food and the royal meals with tables full of delicious dishes were central to his childhood and he was always fascinated with the kitchen and its working.

His passion for the culinary and recreation of traditional recipes are well known as is the beautiful and scenic homestay at their heritage property, Bhainsrorgarh Fort. Located at a height on a cliff/ rock this stunning fort overlooks two rivers, the Chambal and the Bamani. The family continues to live here and has kept their home beautifully, with elegant and traditional interiors.

Our ‘royal’ meal at Taj Blue Diamond began with Mutton Chops, Macchi ke Sule, Paneer ke Sule and Chakki ke Sule. The Mutton Chops were marinated in hand-pounded masalas and slow-cooked to retain maximum moisture and texture in the meat. The Chakki ke Sule are made of besan which is pounded with spices, steamed and then cooked over coal to make tikkas. The flavours were gentle and complimented the meat/ paneer/ besan/ fish well.

For main course the star was the Hari Mirch Ka Mutton, which is a mutton dish with a greenish gravy which is light and spicy and quite unusual. The layer of oil floating on all the dishes is par for the course with royal Rajasthani food. There was also Kunwar Hemendra’s version of the much loved Laal Maas and a Jungli Murg. The Jungli Maas or Murg evolves from a dish that was often cooked post shikaar and hence has three simple ingredients, ghee, garlic and red chillies, in which the meat is cooked for hours till it is tender. The meat would often be wild boar or game and might have had strong odours or tastes which were perfectly complemented by the ingredients used, which were also easily portable.

Vegetarian dishes served included Shikari Aloo, Gatte ki Sabzi, Kathal Safed, Dal Bidwal and a Yakhni Pulao. Kunwar Hemendra told us how every Rajasthani home makes these dishes in different ways; some make their curries using just tomatoes and spices, others use yogurt or even a besan mixture to thicken. He tries to use the authentic royal recipes handed down for generations by his family but innovates where he feels a tweak would make it better. He also shared how each family’s version of dishes also evolved with the brides coming in and their culinary influences slowly merging with the existing recipes to create nuances and small variations from palace to palace or household to household.

Recreating the recipes in a hotel kitchen is harder and Kunwar Hemendra always feels that the meal, however good, lacks that extra je ne sais quoi, that magic which happens in his kitchen using the meats, veggies and ingredients native to the region. He has the masalas pounded and carries them with him but meat quality and cuts vary as do the freshness of the vegetables. Sometimes he has to omit a certain dish as in the execution too many elements are missing or lost in commercial kitchens.

The desserts were a delicious Amrit Gutka, a slow roasted Chane ki Dal ka Halwa, Sewaiyan ki Kheer and a Rabdi.

Kunwar Hemendra carried a lot of staples from his home along with his trusted chefs and helpers to recreate the royal meals he is accustomed to and wanted to share with Poona’s elite few. He personally supervised the selection and treatment of all the ingredients, meats and produce. There were repeated tastings and follow-ups till each dish was as close to the original recipe as possible. His passion and attention to detail are admirable as is his commitment to promoting the cuisine of his ancestors.