DEMOCRACY AT THE TABLE

THE HEIRLOOM CUISINES OF ANURADHA AND ALICE

With the munificence of the family matriarchs, our new-age daughters-in-law continue the family traditions as the 1980s came around. But, with the new decade, there came new challenges. Traditions and rigidity started to seem like an imposition and there was a tug of custodial spirit in the air. The Indian lifestyle though, stayed true as the melting pot of civilisations. Life in the 1980s was-easy going. The atmosphere was convivial and there would be get-togethers every other evening. Books would be discussed, and magazines would be exchanged. There would be laughter and easy banter over lyrics and photographs. Dance and music lessons for children would be mandatory. There was also a lot of entertainment– the radio, cassettes and the introduction of videos! Going to the theatre with friends to watch movies started gaining ground as well.

While all this was suited for the youngsters’ temperaments, the older generation occupied themselves with gardening and sports. In Delhi, politics continued to play a pivotal role in everyone’s life. Mrs Indira Gandhi dominated the headlines, forging new pacts with different countries. Cars became the newest 'in' thing, with the Maruti Suzuki factory being set up on the outskirts of Delhi in 1981, followed closely by the city hosting the Asian Games in 1982. The atmosphere in and around the city of Delhi seemed illusionary and fantastical. The trees that paved the roads and the flowers that littered the pathways– there was magic in the air– imagine a scenario where you’d be taking a walk as dusk turns to twilight, surrounded by the gulmohars, bougainvillea, chrysanthemums and laburnums, with a few stars peeping out on a moonlit night! With politics making its presence felt, the city adapted and evolved as it had always done.

Barsatis began to appear in certain colonies. Offered as low-income housing to refugees, these one-room apartments included a terrace and provided a perfect opportunity to spend a lazy day with friends and family. And this is where Alice and Anuradha sparkled, as Alice, with her booming voice, would be seen tending to the plants in the verandah of the barsati in the afternoons. With the advent of autumn, the daughters-in-law of the house would begin to make plans for the 'Winter of Content' feast. Relatives would be encouraged to visit the city toward the end of the year– for that was when the city outshone itself. It would never be too humid or cold, there would always be a light breeze that could be won over by a tawny port, as the diverse array of flowers in myriad colours would invariably brighten up what might seem like a dull day.

Together, the sisters-in-arms introduced family and friends to a cozy and charming surprise- the buffet spread at home. Unlike the buffets at the 5-star hotels that were spread across the city, the 'Winter of Content' feast featured a plethora of delectable choices in a congenial atmosphere. True to the holiday spirit and somewhat inclined to tradition, the menu highlighted Bengali and colonial heirloom cuisine, with the Queen of Puddings, grilled chops and winter vegetables, and mustard fish curry and khushka, as well as homemade buttermilk bread, on a table adorned with fairy lights that could be a reflection of the starry skies. Mingling in that casual atmosphere, you’d hear a mix of Christmas carols, a burst of disco, light guitar and piano duets, and some jovial singing.

It seemed that while variety was preferred at the sit-down dinners of yore, the buffet at home offered a chance to accommodate many more guests and gave them the option to choose. Twin servings of the main course, accompaniments and desserts would each feature a spot on the table; divided into two platters, mirroring each other so that guests could serve themselves at ease. Alice and Anuradha’s guests admired the seamless confluence of the ladies’ culinary worlds – a food map served on delicate china that perhaps would just need a fork to partake of it.

Diwan-e-Aatam, the lone survivor of the older effervescent group, now in his 80s, reminisces of a time spent long ago, regaling the younger set over with endless glasses of tawny port and sher-o-shayari becoming the base of the cuisine.

“Jiski khushboo se mehek uthe fizza,
Jiski rangat se bhi aa jaaye mazaa,
Ho nagees aur lazeez har luqma,
Zaiqa iska ho karek se juda,
Khaake ho jaaye khush jo mehman,
Hum bichate hai wahi Dastarkhwan!”

The aroma of which pervades the air,
A sight, which adds to its flavour,
Aesthetic and appetising in every morsel,
With a taste unmatched and unique,
Prepared just to please our guest,
is the meal
That we serve at our table of India.

This is how winters in Delhi were spent in the 1980s– in content, the first plate, the host’s choice; and the second plate, an expression of the guests’ desires.

From the diaries of the matriarchs: Essentials for the quintessential buffet spread

1. A well-planned menu

Include a dish that you’ve served before and know is popular.

Feature a combination of rich and simple dishes.

Take the season into account. Light foods, like main course salads and cold soups, are good choices for the summer, while stews and roasts are popular in winter.

Different seasons could help feature a menu that uses fresh seasonal foods.

2. Well-prepared food

Be practical. If you have limited space, prepare the dishes ahead of time and plan cooking time accordingly.

Offer at least 2-3 cocktails or beverages before dinner, served with appetisers that are compatible with the main course.

3. Table set with ironed linen, polished silver, and sparkling glassware

Tea candles and fairy lights add a whimsical aura to the experience.