Kashmir Cravings

Copper Shops of Zaina Kadal

When I was newly married, the first thing I noticed about the kitchen in our home was that all the shelves were open – the better to display the family’s copperware. It was all artistically arranged on them, and what struck me was just how much copperware my family had in their possession! At mealtimes, hands had to be washed with an ewer and a basin made from copper, rice was served on copper plates or bowls where men and women had differently shaped vessels, while the dish of the day was served in single-serve bowls with a copper serving spoon.
When we had guests over, the entire dastarkhan was covered with a plethora of tableware and plates instead of bowls, and mother and father would urge our guests to eat, while apologising profusely for the sparse meal.
My husband’s younger sister and I would wash each copper vessel every week, dry them in the courtyard and arrange them artistically back on the shelves, no matter how many times we had washed them during the week. Neither of us complained: it was all we had to do and at the time, it seemed like fun.
Those days have long gone and sadly most households that we know have stopped using copperware. The bulk of shops, located at Zaina Kadal, still appear to do enough business to sustain themselves; though, over the decades, copper has become too expensive, too inconvenient (given all the tinning that has to be applied periodically), and too old-fashioned. However, it is heartwarming to see how designs have changed over the decades.
At first, they followed tradition strictly; etched tableware, being pricier than the smooth kind, ruled the roost. Today, you would have to hunt for shiny surfaces: the vast majority of copperware sold in the 50 odd shops in this colourful market is etched and new copperware like spice jars, fruit bowls, trays and tea sets are inching their way in – all previously unheard of in the Valley.
Shopkeepers in Zaina Kadal tell me that no matter how fashionable it is to serve meals on Corelle dinnerware, at least one samovar and a few platters and trays go with a bride’s trousseau.
For my part, I’m happy hefting copper cookware that weighs a ton, around my kitchen. All in the name of reliving the old days.