Madras Munchings

Bar, Bakery & Brunch at Asvah 24

Young Chef Vivek Ravi must have the busiest mind in Chennai – ideas fly off his head faster than feathers in a gale. Prodigious culinary creativity can be a recipe for disaster. But not when Vivek reminds himself that gastronomy isn’t just about a mosaic of flavours but quality ingredients (which he ensures) and demonstrating technique, which he can – if by appointment you let him design you a four-course meal. Then he crafts Tomato Broth with coffee-roasted cherry tomatoes in which Parmesan ice cream sits looking pretty (have you had better soup in Chennai?). Ricotta and Scallion Parcels come with poached pears and arugula. Masterfully manoeuvred is Buckwheat Bolognese wreathed in pumpkin and saffron puree feathered off in leek crisps. For dolce: Rose Mousse, Ginger Tart, Lemongrass Crumble.
There’s wine aplenty at the wine-speciality new bar but Chef prefers pairing courses with breads like basil and Parmesan or beetroot and fennel. Order them at the new bakery!
When Chef is good he is very good and when he is bad he blames his guests’ jejune palates. To them we shall impute the prodigality of butter, cheese, egg and overdone pasta for Vivek’s risotto can ravish when you specify al dente, but Chef recalls being chastised – severely – when last he hazarded anything al dente. Affable, assiduous, Vivek won’t hurl the kitchen knife at you if you critique – instead he serves you with a silver spoon, his latest experiment. But play to the galleries Chef must to sustain so ambitious an enterprise as this, one with an antique mirror capriciously or cleverly placed on the floor to reflect the well-heeled soles that slink into the venue’s delicious private enclaves or adorn the inviting outdoors spaces. During the new afternoon Sandwich & Siesta session laze over Asian Lemongrass Burger, if not Curried Green-pea Burger, watching the resident frog swim in his private pool (a waterbody striped across charming pool-facing terraces where, come evening, lofty candelabras flame). Siesta over, hit the famous terrace-top for seaside sundowners and keep knocking down cocktails. Stay on to sup. You must. After those “bubbles-themed” cocktails, courtesy Harinath of Bar Masons, you might fall asleep en site. Awake, if it’s Sunday, to just-launched English Brunch, essentially a full English breakfast served elegantly on a tray at your table. Elegant also because it tames gluttony with a set menu – no seconds! Gourmands don’t despair, Chef’s portions are copiously English. You’ve English cocktails to go –  Sour Tea with Earl Grey-infused gin is the new G & Tea! Pain au chocolat seems a curiosity on an English Brunch. Then again, the chocolate “buns” are buxom Brits, not flimsily French, so altogether complementing Chef’s currently English and robust culinary mode.
The big news is witty owner, Ashwath Naroth, has sanctioned Vivek’s latest whim: monthly sit-down suppers on Full Moon Nights where 12 sit at a gourmet gathering. And pay 5-star prices to sup under 5000 stars!

4/24, Beach Rd, Sri Kapaleeswarar Nagar, Neelankarai, Chennai 600115
Mob: 0 86102 25381
English Brunch: Aprroximately from R 1100 + taxes; Full Moon Supper: Aprroximately from Rs 3800 + taxes