Hello! Russia…

Yu Lyublyu Vas - Love You

The smashing appeal of Moscow and the sheer grandeur of St. Petersburg coupled with fresh, local, flavourful produce leaves one in an addictive languor. There's something about Russia, visit and find out  

Text: Shobhaa De

Our recent trip to Russia (Moscow and St. Petersburg) happened by default. We were booked to go to Belgrade and Sarajevo… tickets in hand, hotel vouchers in folders, itineraries on the smartphone, the works. We were dying to escape – go anywhere that would have certified double-vaxxed us! Serbia had just opened up for Indian tourists and visas could be obtained on arrival. I was super excited at the prospect of staying at a historic Art Deco/Art Nouveau heritage hotel (Hotel Moskwa) in the heart of Belgrade – and boom! The Serbian authorities changed their minds and imposed a quarantine period for desis (they had their reasons). Disheartened but not defeated, we instantly switched our plans and looked at Russia, which we had last visited in 2018 (World Cup finals), and loved.
 Moscow airport is hardly impressive, but Moscow itself? Smashing! Whatever else Vladimir Putin has done or not done, he has got something right – positioning and perception. Moscow dazzles by day and night, when all the public buildings are artistically illuminated and glisten against a light night sky (we caught the tail end of the glorious White Nights, when the sun barely sets, and the sky is never pitch dark). The weather was warm enough to wear cottons, with just that delicious nip in the air at night to show off our pashminas. Our man in Russia was Dr Darshan Sachdev, a cardiologist by training (he studied medicine at Moscow University, married a co-student and stayed on in his wife’s hometown, St. Petersburg). We left all the planning to ‘Doc’ and just as well. Warning number one: Nobody speaks or understands English in Russia. It helps to know a local who is fluent and reads/writes Russian. Street signs, menus, shop labels – all Russian. Warning number two: Don’t go by the lettering. It may look familiar (semi-Roman) but is pronounced differently. Do not attempt an interpretation. But here’s a big positive. Are locals helpful? Yes, very! Even when they really don’t get a word of what you are saying!
Despite these limitations, I would recommend both cities 1000%. Here’s why. The rates at hotels and restaurants are amazing. The ruble-to-rupee exchange rate makes you feel if not rich, at least comfortable! The food is astonishing – both cities boast of gourmet, reputed international brands like Zuma, Novakov – but it is the homegrown cafés (Dr. Zhivago and Café Pushkin in Moscow, Idiot Café in St. Petersburg) that score big. Most of the produce is local and fresh – salmon from the Baltic sea and river fish galore. But for me, the biggest treat was unlimited caviar and smoked salmon at breakfast! Not the pricey black variety which is Sturgeon, but the orange, larger, globular salmon/pike eggs. Traditionally served with blinis and sour cream, I made caviar my main meal most days – how can anyone ever get enough of caviar!
This was essentially an eating-relaxing trip for us, since we had extensively done the standard, can’t-miss tourist sights earlier – the Kremlin, various historic and important churches, the Bolshoi, river tours – everything! This trip was for a serious discovery of unexpected tastes, and a few unexplored sites. Georgian cuisine was new for our palates – Tkemali, located in a busy district, was lively, the food so-so, unless you like Cheese Naan Boats with a raw egg at the centre (khachapuri). I was determined to have at least one meal at the once-magnificent Hotel Metropol, and we managed a delicious lunch at Saava. I loved the Art Nouveau vibe at the well-stocked bar, and the salads were delicious, particularly the hand-picked Baku tomatoes from Uzbekistan. The Franco-Russian favourite, Café Pushkin (established in 1999 and still going strong) never disappoints with its classic Russian specialities, like mince pies, Beef Stroganoff and braised venison. All the dishes are done to perfection and served in a charming old-fashioned way by courtly waiters, behaving like valets to noblemen and women. By contrast, Café Zhivago, just off the Red Square, has pert waitresses with starched aprons and pretty pink uniforms, serving incredible desserts and pastries round the clock. But the sexiest café for people-watching and great cocktails is Bolshoi – you need to book well in advance if you want to sit outdoors and pay a minimum charge for the privilege. Combine that experience with a vodka or two at the high voltage glam-plus rooftop bar, O2 Lounge of the Ritz Carlton  and you have your Moscow trip neatly wrapped up. Shopping? Nyet! Nothing to buy but souvenirs. Though a quick visit to GUM – the upmarket Harrod’s of Moscow, is fun for a Citrus Salad and Aperol Spritz at Bosco Café, overlooking the world-renowned Red Square.
 We took the bullet train to St. Petersburg, which was a smart thing to do, given that the train takes less than four hours and arrives in the heart of the busy city, with the most impressive boulevards on earth (take that, Paris!). It was built on such an awe-inspiring scale by Peter the Great, it leaves visitors gasping. The sheer grandeur of St. Petersburg makes one marvel at the  Tsar’s vision. He obviously saw beyond the marshland which it was in 1703… and built a city of staggering beauty, brick by brick, canal by canal. It remained the Capital of the Russian Empire for two centuries till the 1917 Russian Revolution.
 It would take many weeks just to see a part of the most extensive museum on the planet – L’Hermitage. We had seen the sections we were keen on during our first visit, and decided to visit the other, more contained Museum of Russian Art, with the Kandinsky exhibit in a separate wing, on this trip. Most first-time visitors take the day-long tour to see the majestic St. Peter of Summer gardens with all those dancing fountains (often called the Versailles of Russia) and the palaces of Catherine the Great, with the stunning Amber Room. We were happy with memories of our earlier visit there, and opted for a long, leisurely, sunset canal yacht trip, with champagne and great evening skies.
 The food experience was exceptional, especially at Percesso, the super-exclusive Italian restaurant located in the Four Seasons Hotel. The only restaurant to have won the Two Forks award in Russia, and it’s easy to see why. Not only was the service the finest, but the steak with young potatoes and pasta recommended by the sophisticated mâitre d’ were impressive enough to warrant a second and third visit. We were fixed a night cap of such supreme delicacy by the charming sommelier, I can still taste it – think lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco – yummmmmmm.
Café Idiot came as a surprise package! Named after the great writer Dostoyevsky’s celebrated novel, The Idiot, it is located in the basement of a busy street and favoured by expats who hang around going through the books in the mini library there. It is the same basement where the gifted writer spent time and penned the classic after a drunken bout that left him injured and broken! The food is old-fashioned Russian – I enjoyed the beetroot based borscht, with chunks of tender beef – but it is the thrill of sitting in a typical Russian ‘home’, with frayed carpets, hat stands, antique furniture and being looked after by the owners, who are known for their range of home-churned butters, served with warm, freshly baked bread.
We were fortunate enough to get great tickets for the ballet at the Mariinsky Theatre,  where Giselle was being performed for just two nights! What better finale, than to enjoy an exquisite experience at a theatre that was commissioned in 1860. Earlier, it was known as the Kirov Theatre, and lovers of ballet recall some of the greatest performances of legendary dancers like Anna Pavlova and Rudolf Nureyev, on that impressive stage. It was good to note that theatre goers in the city still took the trouble to dress grandly for a night at the opera! We did that, too! And received wonderful responses to our Indian attire.
 Our best was reserved for our last night in this majestic city. We had blurry memories of our visit to the classy Caviar Bar of the Grand Hotel Europe, where legend has it, Rasputin (yup! same rascal) conducted his dirty business from his favourite alcove in the sprawling bar. This was also where the great Russian composer, Tchaikovsky, honeymooned with his wife! So off we went, dressed in our desi finery, only to discover a new management had taken over the hotel and renamed its bar! Of course, the place has retained its grandeur, and is old-fashioned enough to have a saxophonist playing jazz! The caviar continues to be served the way it is meant to be served – on ice and with accompanying condiments like chopped onions, finely diced boiled eggs, herbs, fresh cream. Ordering the pricy Beluga was out of the question (Rs 18,000 for a spoonful), but we thoroughly enjoyed the salmon roe.
Back we went to La Terrasa, the rooftop bar of Hotel Lotte, with phenomenal views of the glittering city . The golden dome of St. Isaac’s Cathedral glistened in the moonlight, as we sipped a herb-infused 'vodkatini' made with Organika, which came highly recommended by the attentive bartender. The mood was appropriately mellow… I hummed From Russia With Love, and went to bed dreaming of James Bond.