Shout OPA!

If you're looking for drama where you dine, in a truly Grecian setting with food as authentic, OPA Kipos is the place. Bombay's beloved diners, head on down 

Text: Dr Nishant Kumar

Though the ‘Greek salad’ is ubiquitous in most “international” cuisine restaurants, there really isn’t a dedicated Greek restaurant in the city which would rival some of the best in the world. Luckily, that has changed. We now have a dedicated Greek restaurant in OPA Kipos, a franchise of the famous OPA Kipos in Dubai.  Being a franchise, it must uphold to the standards of the original and I am delighted that a lot of the staff has been to Dubai at the original restaurant to train and some of their chefs from there are stationed in the Bombay restaurant. 

Located in Worli, it has an ambience with a ‘wow’ factor as soon as you step in.  Any place in Bombay where the ceilings are more than 20 ft., suddenly develops a character of its own, and the décor here done in whites and blues with pink flowers is really something that catches your attention. The Greek statues on the walls and the candles bring a bit more character to let you know undeniably that you are now in a Greek restaurant. The décor could have been clichéd, but kudos to the interior decorators for making this place feel distinctive and unique. Split over two levels, there is enough space to accommodate large seatings and private gatherings as well.

Visiting OPA Kipos is not like visiting any other restaurant in the city. They are trying to serve you an experience rather than just a good meal. There are certain customs which may not be to everyone’s liking, but these make up the restaurant. Greek restaurants throughout the world have a tradition of live music often with the bouzouki (a Greek string instrument), dancing, and some of them have the tradition of breaking plates, which is what OPA Kipos has brought to Bombay for the first time.

If you are expecting to have a quiet business dinner or enjoy a good conversation with a close friend or catch up with someone after years, this is not the place for you. However, if you want to celebrate an evening and leave with a smile on your face, then it most likely is.

Service at OPA Kipos is attentive. A lot of the staff is from Greece and Europe and I was delighted to meet Chef Christos who is from Athens himself and quite eager to visit each table and advise you on the food and the cuisine. He also adds to the experience of dining here, because as I said, this restaurant tries to provide a theatrical experience more than just a meal. A lot of the dishes are plated on the table itself by the chefs and that creates more involvement with the diner, the chef and the restaurant. 

The menu is authentic, but extensive.  There are an abundance of starters, salads and main courses to satisfy both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. They also have a peinirli, which is very similar to the Turkish pide. Most vegetarians will find this restaurant to have more than enough options for them. We started with the Opa Hummus with lamb. The hummus is mixed at the table by the chef, with chilli paste and topped off with some lamb and nuts. Served with some great bread, this is a super way to start the meal. One cannot go to a Greek restaurant and not order a Greek salad. Again, this is a salad prepared on the table, where the chef brings a bowl with all the vegetables and the salad dressing and then places a large slab of Feta cheese, which is then broken down and the salad is tossed on the table itself. Some may find this gimmicky, though we find it quite endearing. It is surprising that this quality of tomato, cucumber and olives is available in the city. They tell me the vegetables are all sourced locally, but I can assure you I have not eaten such fresh and flavourful tomatoes from my local vendor. 

All the cheeses served at the restaurant come from Greece, or from other parts of the world, and that brings authenticity to the dishes. The Feta served with the Greek salad is wonderful, perfectly balanced in flavour and texture and with the salad dressing, which is essentially just simple olive oil and Balsamic vinegar, this makes for a perfect dish. Trust me, I am not a salad person, but this is worth your time.

We also tried the Burrata salad. I loved the smoothness of the cheese cut by the slightly citric dressing with some sweetness of the honey; however, this wouldn’t be a dish I would re-order. If you like Burrata, there are possibly better places for it, and in all honesty, this isn’t a typical Greek dish.

For hot starters, we had the lamb kebab, the calamari and the Flaming Cheese. The flaming cheese is again a dish prepared at the table, and for us, we had Chef Christos do the honours. The Katsiki cheese is brought in a pan and then theatrically flambéed at the tableside with Ouzo. The cheese is topped with fig marmalade and walnuts. It is more the theatre of the dish that is exciting, and it brings out the child in you and puts a smile on your face. The lamb kebab is wonderful with really juicy lamb served with a tomato sauce and garlic yogurt. The calamari was not one of the best I have had. Having tried calamari all over Greece and around the world, this version was a little bit heavy and the coating a bit too thick for my liking.

Next, we ordered the Halloumi Peinirli, which was surprisingly good. Normally, Halloumi is quite a salty cheese, however, this one which is served with sundried tomatoes, Cretan honey and sesame seeds, was balanced perfectly. 

For main courses, we had the lamb chops, Kleftiko, Tiger Prawns Orzo and the Mushroom Pastitsio. I am told that all the lamb comes from Australia and you can instantly notice the difference. The lamb chops was one of my favourites. Done medium, these chops are probably some of the best I have had. Grilled to perfection, there is very limited seasoning required and the meat flavours speak for themselves. It is rare to get good lamb chops in the city, and if you love a good chop then this is the place to go. Served with grilled Mediterranean vegetables, this is a well-balanced dish. Kleftiko, braised lamb shoulder, is a dish which is a favourite of mine right from my early student days when I visited Athens.  It’s a very simple dish, but needs to be done well. The braised shoulder lamb has to be cooked slowly so that it’s tender, yet flavourful, and OPA Kipos does a good job. It’s in stark contrast to the lamb chops, where the meat is served medium at best. Kleftiko is a good option for those who like a more wholesome main course. The Tiger Prawns Orzo is a Greek dish where roasted tiger prawns are served with tomato sauce and Orzo, a small rice shaped pasta, typical to Greece. I found the tanginess and the sweetness of the tomato to overshadow the delicate prawns. I think the meat dishes at this restaurant far outweigh this one.

For vegetarians, the Mushroom Pastitsio is a wonderfully creamy dish full of flavour with wild mushrooms, béchamel, truffle and Parmesan.

Midway through our meal, suddenly the lights dimmed and the waiters and servers got into a well-choreographed performance accompanied by some traditional Greek music, very reminiscent of Zorba the Greek.  I wasn’t really expecting this, so it was a bit of a surprise. If you are in the mood to live the night up and enjoy yourself, join in the festivities with the applause and it really becomes quite a celebration. 

The whole performance lasts for 5 to 7 minutes, but it really does help elevate the mood and get the endorphins flowing.  Following the dance, there is the much-talked about and Instagrammed plate-breaking ceremony. I was surprised as to how many people indulged in this activity. I am told that it is not unusual for at least 100 people in the second seating to be participating in the plate-breaking ceremony. The restaurant sells 50 plates, which people then line up to break in a ceremony, all caught on camera. At Rs3,500 per set of plates, it is an expensive experience; however, I think the fear of missing out (FOMO) makes most people buy this experience at least once. If you have friends visiting from other parts of India, this is an experience they will not forget. I didn’t break 50 plates, but I did break one and it is strangely satisfying.

After the brief performance, the plate-breaking activities continue in the background, while you can now carry on with your meal. For us it was dessert. The OPA Baklava Sundae is a restaurant favourite and one that should not be missed. This is a huge dessert to be shared by the table. A crispy phyllo cup filled with pistachio ice-cream, Greek yogurt ice-cream with pieces of baklava, pistachio and some cream. It’s a beautiful dish, which is brought to your table and then Chef Christos invites us to decimate it with our spoons. The idea is to break it all down in front of you and then start eating it up with all the individual ingredients having mixed up. The phyllo pastry is crispy and light, the pistachio ice-cream is possibly one of the best in the city and the baklava is not too sweet. At Rs 1950 this dessert is expensive but it would suffice for a table of six for sure.

If you believe that food should not just satiate the stomach, but be a wholesome experience where all the senses are being stimulated, then a meal at OPA Kipos goes a long way in satisfying those requirements. The food is authentic, the cheeses are all brought from abroad preserving the authenticity of flavours and the meats are of international standard. All of this means that the meal does not come cheap. Expect to pay anywhere between Rs3000 to R6000 per head without drinks, depending on your choice of dishes. Most main courses will set you back by Rs 2,000 to R2500 and you will need to share a few starters, a salad and a dessert to do justice to the meal and to feel sated.

OPA Kipos Mumbai

Wadia International Centre, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Worli, Mumbai 400025

Mob: 0 72088 81161