ONE of the tastiest vegetarian foods in Orissa is the local mushroom that grows wild all over the state and over which no authority actually has control. If it grows in your backyard, consider yourself lucky. This is an all-year vegetable. And you can have Chatu Tarkari, which is Oriya mushroom curry, for dinner every other day!

These are button mushrooms, and they are found in fields, at the edges of ponds, and generally growing wild in natural habitats. Although rain is vital for mushroom growth, the Orissa mushrooms are hardy edibles, they survive all through the year. Botanical classification has not yet reached them, so even local food experts describe them as �wild mushrooms�.

Once they are plucked, sort the good mushrooms from the bad, and clean them as soon as possible. Vegetable vendors who sell these wild mushrooms on Orissa's streets, keep them in buckets of water. You may either buy these ones or go for a packaged variety which are cut and cleaned by the vendor himself.

However, it is advisable when cooking mushrooms to do the cleaning at home and personally. Mushrooms can be extremely poisonous if contaminated in any way. Start by removing grit and pay particular attention to mushrooms with folded heads. That is where grit becomes embedded. Rinse the mushrooms under running water and they are ready for the pot.

After washing, it is a good idea to slice up the mushrooms as some are deceptive; on the outside they look sound, but when you cut into them, their flesh can be riddled with small maggot holes. A quick and distinct way to enhance the flavour of mushrooms, is to saute them in butter.