My first and only meeting with Nico Ladenis was in a most unexpected location in a most unusual manner. In the South of France, in his villa called La Maison Blanc, where he now lives almost a recluse, far away from London where he ruled for years and years.

I had heard that Nico was a rage in London for 25 years where he got first one, and then two Michelin stars for his restaurant Chez Nico in Battersea, and then he finally achieved his life�s ambition as a three Michelin star owner-chef at his restaurant 90 Park Lane. And now here he was, far away from the restaurant buzz and London, sharing his three-quarter retired life and quality time with Dinah-Jane his wife.

My knowledge of Nico, his expertise, success and haughty temper was only through hearsay and what I had read. And I must confess I had heard enough to feel great trepidation when driving through rustic French countryside to meet him.

So how did my appointment with Nico happen? Well, I was on my way to London via the South of France and had been in touch with my London-based friends who were on my behalf trying to pin Nico down for an interview. Suddenly I got a call in St. Raphael where I was staying, excitedly informing me that Nico was right in my vicinity and expecting to hear from me. But there was a dampener! I was cautioned that Nico was not really interested in interviews or meeting people, I was on my own, but to go ahead and call anyway.

And call I did, and perhaps my charm worked, for I was on my way the next morning to Draguignan with Dadi Contractor, my brother-in-law-cum-chauffeur. Our directions, given by the reliable Dinah-Jane, were as rustic as the place we were trying to locate... �When you go off the main road, turn left, keep driving till you come to an old barn, turn right, drive through till you see a cluster of trees, then comes an open field, after a mile you will see a wooden gate to a drive way, don't go in, drive by till you come to three little post-boxes on the left, then just before the little bridge drive left towards the little hill, climb ... and you will find us there.�

There was no cute little sign saying 'Chez Nico' or even 'Ladenis', no nothing. You get the idea then, in what splendid isolation and privacy the Ladenis's now live?

Once at their villa and comfortably settled, I discovered to my joy and contrary to popular impression, Nico was no ogre. He was, in fact, soft-spoken, and kind and patient. Needless to say he spoke of food lovingly, passionately. And he couldn't figure why he wasn�t getting one Indian dal right, even though he was giving it the right baghar. �Try tuvar dal,� I suggested, �instead of masoor.� �Hmm...� Nico said thoughtfully, wondering if that's where he was going wrong. Thus I learned he loves Indian food. To cook and to eat and he does both even here in the wilderness. He can cook a good biryani and can eat Indian food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. He doesn't generalise Indian food. He talks specifics. He is aware and knowledgeable about our cuisine. He even knows about Kashmiri and Parsi food and I was most impressed.

So we sit there in his living room on large sofas, Nico, Dinah-Jane, Dadi and I and amble through varied aspects of food, quality of ingredients, cooking styles, Indian wines, and of course people. I get to know Nico differently and begin to relax and enjoy my interaction with him. Yes, he gardens, but no, he doesn't believe in growing vegetables. �For what? Why break your back, when the markets are full of good produce. And what do you do with 20 kilos of tomatoes that you may grow in one go. Non ..., forget it!�

No, he doesn't socialise, guards his privacy zealously, but he may have house guests from time to time. Old trusted friends. And yes, he goes out to eat, maybe thrice a week. To small cheery, inexpensive places around there. He has his favourites in Cannes, Nice, St. Tropez and St. Raphael.

Of course, he still cooks but not for the whole world, just himself and his wife. Light, simple meals. In their nice little kitchen which was converted from an old water tank. Their villa, in fact, which looks very pretty, very French, has plenty of beautiful flowers, tended by Dinah-Jane. The villa was once an old farmhouse. No, they have no maids, don't want maids. Someone comes in once in a while to do the odd job.

Now Nico has sold off all his businesses, but for the time being is a consultant to the company which has bought his restaurants. His daughter Natasha has started one in London which very cleverly and wittily is called 'Incongnico'. I had the pleasure of dining there a week after meeting Nico and I can tell you it was a divine experience.

So what else? �Travel, of course, that's the best part about retiring,� said the great Nico. And he and his wife have been doing plenty of that. Ten days on the St. Lawrence River, ten weeks in the South Pacific on board a luxury liner. Tahiti, Bora Bora, Christmas Island. Samoa, Hawaii, Costa Rica. It's the Greek Islands next, and to South America after that. Wow! Here is a man who has seen all and done all, yet I get the feeling he is still seeing, and still doing and I am glad for him.

This then is the current lifestyle of a man who has for more than a quarter century helped create sublime culinary memories for the well-heeled gourmets of the world. People who never visited London without visiting at least one of his restaurants for a meal.

Nico, a living legend, has had firm and outspoken opinions on food, customers and cooking. And I would like to conclude with the great gourmet and food writer Richard Olney's quote which I think sums up Nico Ladenis best. �Nico is an incorrigible force of nature. You will have to accept him as he is, an explosion of incandescent passions, loyalties and prejudices, fierce dedication and occasional intolerance... or get out of his way. If you accept him, the rewards are immense � and his food, the result of all that turbulence, is sober and harmonious, the presentations are ravishing in their simplicity and play of colour, the flavours are subtle, often surprising, and always signed �Nico�; it is built on a solid classical foundation but there is no other food like it.�

A pity I never got an opportunity to eat at any of Nico�s restaurants in Nico�s time but I am hoping someday he will invite me back to his villa, make me a special meal. In return this time, I shall take him a whole box of Alphonso mangoes � a huge favourite of his. You should have seen his face light up when I gave him just four the last time which Monique, my sister-in-law, had reluctantly parted with from the dozen I took her.

NICO The Way It Was
NICO Ladenis was born to Greek parents, and was brought up on a sisal plantation in Tanzania in Africa. The house was surrounded by the most beautiful of gardens: green lawns, roses, carnations, dahlias, sweet peas, hibiscus, bougainvillaea, and the deeply-scented gardenia. Vegetables and fruits grew in great abundance on the farm. Avocados, tomatoes, French beans, potatoes, yams, carrots, kohlrabi, artichokes, aubergines, pumpkins, cucumbers, spring onions, red and green peppers, parsley, marjoram, oregano and bay trees. And the fruits: different varieties of bananas, mangoes, papaw, pineapples, passion fruit, limes, pomegranates, guavas, custard apples, and the extremely pungent soursoup. �I grew up in Paradise,� says Nico.

There was plenty of game: partridge, gazelles, wild guinea fowl, but Nico's outstanding memory is of wild boar stew, green pigeon roasted over an open fire, and the chicken stock his mother made from freshly killed chickens. The refrigerator was full of the exotic spices of the East, and even Basmati rice. Thus the tastebuds of the boy Nico were given a exotic and eclectic education. Nico moved to England to attend university. After graduation, he was told by the interviewing panel at the Shell Oil Company that he was �non-conformist, argumentative and unemployable�. Nico had married Dinah-Jane, who was French. They moved to France. His comprehensive education in the subtleties of great French cuisine had begun.

Nico read books: his favourites are Masterpieces of French Cuisine by Francois Amunategui, Cuisine Gourmande by Michel Guerard, French Provincial Cooking by Elizabeth David, and Great Chefs of France by Quentin Crewe. Nico visited restaurants, where he tasted, for the first time, Duck a L'Orange, Souffli au Grand Marnier, and Pouilly Fume Wine; Ecrivesses a L'Americaine, Coq au Vin de chinon, and the extraordinary 'Vin Jaune' wine from the Jura, Chateau Chalon; and also a vanilla ice-cream presented in a tulip case on a bed of raspberry coulis, flecked with tiny black seeds of the vanilla pods � �the most sensational vanilla ice-cream I have ever eaten�.

Nico apprenticed himself to the legendary three Michelin star chef, Roger Verge, at the Moulin de Mougins near Cannes. (This is where he had eaten the ice-cream.) Nico says that the truly great chefs create and perfect a few dishes, instead of presenting a vast menu. He recalls with approval Paul Bocuse saying that the test of a chef is his ability to create at least one masterpiece. For example, Bocuse is famous for his truffle soup, and Loup de Mer en Croute Sauce Choron, stuffed with a mousseline of lobster. At La Pyramide in Vienne there was the great Fernand Point. Point's most memorable creations were Poulet en Vessie and Terrine de Foie Gras encased in a Brioche. Gourmets came from all over the world to eat these dishes.

Cooking is a science, Nico Ladenis firmly believes, and its presentation is an art. Mastery of both are equally important at the highest levels. Simplicity is essential. At his restaurants you always found the art and the science of cooking simple dishes raised to perfection.

No wonder Nico Ladenis reached the pinnacle of his profession.