Somebody once wrote that Indian food without chillies is like summer without sunshine. It is true. Which is not to suggest that all chillies do are scorch the tastebuds, no, rather they create an amicable blend of heat, fragrance and flavour in any cuisine.

Chillies are cultivated in tropical and sub-tropical countries and India is the world�s largest producer and exporter of this spice. But, strangely, 400 years ago, chillies were unknown to India. They were introduced to us by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th century.

Chillies are available fresh, dried, powdered, flaked, in oil, in sauce, bottled and pickled. The pungency can vary from the mild Kashmiri chilli to the dried South Indian varieties which have incredible firepower and need to be treated with respect.

Finely-chopped, raw chilli can be added to salsas and salads. Sliced or chopped chillies, cooked in curries and spicy stews and casseroles, are an indispensible flavouring ingredient. The substance which makes the chilli hot is a volatile oil called capsaicin. This differs from plant to plant, depending on the growing conditions. The more the plant has to struggle to survive in terms of light, water and soil, the more capsaicin will be produced.

To dry chillies, hang them in a warm place, when dry, crush whole and store in a sealed jar. They will stay for a year if stored in a dark, dry place. Exposure to light will spoil the colour. Indian chilli powder is widely available and needs no alternative, it is that good.