Afternoon Tea In London
When in London don�t miss the chance of indulging in traditional English tea, a custom of the 18th century kept alive by the city�s fanciest hotels. NUPUR MAHAJAN SINH is swept away by this delightful fourth meal of the British�

It's a charming meal, this very British afternoon tea with scones and strawberry preserve, delightful sandwiches and delicate cakes and pastries. And for lovers of quaint old traditions this snack-meal will lure you no end. You might wonder what's so traditional about tea; don't we all love that cuppa at our designated hour? But the Brit tea begs to differ. It is seeped in history and is more than just tea. It's about dressing pretty, sitting around friends or colleagues and chatting or planning strategy over endless cups of your favourite brew. It's the three-tiered china stand holding treats on each plate that gives it its unique and distinct identity. The Victorian teapots, eggshell-thin bone china cups and crisp linens. Cut sandwiches, two bite worth. The bite-sized pastries, an enchanting assortment. The warm scones that make you use the sterling silver flatware. Crumble the scone, douse clotted cream, load the fresh strawberry preserve and roll your eyes as you taste pure bliss. It's these must-haves, and if you choose a fancy address like The Savoy, an accompanying tea sommelier, that make British tea what it is, a relic preserved and preened yet.

ALL OF LONDON IN AN EYEFULL: The Thames with the London Eye, Houses of Parliament and The Big Ben.
I absolutely love it. When in London, a modern, modern metrop that honours old traditions, I make it a point to indulge in tea. This fetish of Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bradford, and the originator of this 4th meal. The tale goes back to 1830, in the days when the Duchess often grew hungry between an early lunch and a late dinner, and a separate meal put together for her in the mid-afternoon. While that snacky meal was served up in her boudoir it caught on as a ladies' special in the gardens of Vauxhall and Marylebone, by now a well-established meal with its own distinctive array of foods and table settings. And two centuries thence continues to live on.

A trip to London is incomplete if after buying off Bond Street, Oxford Street or Knightsbridge - whatever's your shopping mecca - you don't sit down over afternoon tea. Skip lunch, go for tea. There are tea services all afternoon down to 7pm with the high tea option, another living Brit legend, where apart from the afternoon tea must-haves you have hot entrees for the more substantial feeling. And if you are in London this summer, here's where I'd stop by.


The Savoy

GLITZ, GLAM AND GOOD TIMES: The Savoy remains London�s landmark hotel at 118 years. (Above) Kaspar the cat will give you company at your table, should the number number at the table total the unlucky 13.
This home away from home for celebrities from the world over is ideally located between the City and the West End of London. With sweeping views of the Thames and London beyond, known for its hallmark English sophistication and the place for all celebration, the Savoy has long fascinated who's who to be part of its ever-evolving, rich history. From Claude Monet who immortalized this awe-inspiring view during his many stays, Winston Churchill who visited every week, where Caruso sang and Pavlova danced and the Queen was coronated. Savoy opened its doors in 1889 when Richard D'Oyly Carte the impresario famous for staging Gilbert and Sullivan operas built the hotel next door to the Savoy Theatre, to cater to guests leaving the theatre. And since then this landmark hotel has been serving up a tradition of firsts and creating loyal Savoyards.

It's past the very abuzz lobby that the Thames Foyer, serving traditional English tea, holds fort. The Foyer is also where the coronation party of the Queen took place, and where Hugh Grant and Kevin Spacey drop in for the Sunday jazz brunch or a cocktail ever so often. No such luck now as mom and I wait to be seated for the 2pm sitting. And yet even minus the celebrity quotient this expansive Foyer with its lofty, overhanging chandeliers, art deco mirrors and gold painted rich walls with the garden theme seemed a celebrity in itself.

The Thames Foyer is your destination for Afternoon Tea at The Savoy
As we are ushered to our table I noticed that it wasn't just us holidayers but many, many Londoners who'd made time for this afternoon time out. Tables were all brimming with men and women in stereo-typical black suits chatting and munching at the same speed. Soon we were following suit with a platter boasting sandwiches a mix of ham and mayo, salmon, fresh cream and dill, cucumber and cream cheese, egg and tomato bread and blue cheese stilton for company. Second rung boasted desserts - lime and cranberry cheesecake, Montblanc chestnut with praline, poppy seed cake, choco-chip medallion and, of course, scones with the best tasting Cornish clotted cream and strawberry preserve I've had. Everything is so yummy, flavours so well complemented, the portions so perfect, before you realize you're already quite the hog!

The Savoy has gone a step ahead than the rest and not only got in a tea sommelier but also an extensive and elegant menu boasting over 30 teas. All grouped by genre and well explained. There's the Savoy favourites with the famous Fairmont Earl Grey, Green Teas from China, Japan�s Oolong, teas from Darjeeeling and Assam, the very expensive White Tea - we tried 100 Monkeys from China, delightful. Decaff, Herbal, Iced Tea, Fruit Infusions and Children's Tea. As the munchies kept replenishing, we read the tea details, exchanged notes, took the opinion of our steward and tried a new flavour. It was fun, endless cups of tea washing down all the eats the ambience adding considerably to our chat and afternoon of pure luxury. When we got up to leave well into 4pm, mom and I were converts to this tradition. And when The Savoy spoiled us further by handing out a parcel, the sandwiches and pastries we'd left on the table, we were smitten.


The Dorchester

LUXE LIVING: At The Dorchester you are enwrapped in luxury so supreme you forget it�s mere tea you are here for!
The stately, landmark hotel is celebrating 75 years of being. The Dorchester, one of the most desirable places in the world to be at, lives up to its reputation. A heritage hotel with rituals seeped in British custom and yet offering the most modern services (a 40 million pound refurbishment progamme is underway). With its enviable Park Lane location, you have London at your doorstep, stroll down to Mayfair's posh boutiques or to bohemian paradise Notting Hill. The Dorchester with its fantastic diverse restaurants, pulsating bar, select loyalists and the Rolls Royce Phantom on offer, is every bit the majestic British luxury hotel.

Just past the bright lobby, the elusive Brit sun doesn't shy away, with its special theatre desk and the perpetual buzz at the concierge is the Promenade. Recently renovated to give Londoners a premier lounge with no parallels, it got back its original recognition as the meeting spot of all elite. Relaxed, elegant yet understated, one feels at home here amidst the coral and gold drapes, the grand mirrors and the comfy sofas, be it at breakfast or nursing the signature Dorchester Bellini. While we tea drinkers sat right here, the focal point of the Promenade is the ultra-chic Promenade Bar whose velvet-cushioned mahogany stools, tinted mirrors and gifted bartenders evoke the tinkle of all high society.

The Dorchester Bar is the city�s top-rated action spot
It was after a very tiring and long day that we sat down, and sunk into the soft pillows, to the full English tea. This time, unlike at The Savoy, mom did not say no to the effusive steward offering her pink champagne. Yes, champagne tea is an option and adds six pounds to your bill. The Dorchester serves up a Savoy-ish bill of fare, albeit in courses. all conjured by its 'dream team' crew of 15 pastry chefs working with a dedicated Tea-time Chef.

First came the wafer-thin finger sandwiches. Smoked salmon, egg, chicken, prawn and cucumber. You can have as many helpings as you pick your way through the tea selection. Smaller and slimmer, we had quite a few plates going back and forth and the china clanking on the small tables.

Nupur with her husband, Jaideep, and mother, Promila, at The Palm Court
I realised there's something about the tea experience. Since there's no meal agenda and no menu formulations you are relaxed, focus more on your company and end up with some stimulating conversation. The scones only bettered the camaraderie that till moments ago was flushed out by the bitter cold and aching heels. And by the time the platter of tartlets and cakes arrived it was a bright, new day! Chocolate and praline pyramids, pineapple financiers on a chocolate mousse, fresh berry crumble tarts� Fantastic! This quintessentially English ceremony again had us enslaved.


The Ritz

The Ritz remains a fantasy to be lived. It is elegance and opulence personified.
The legendary Ritz at the heart of Piccadilly is an ongoing story we wanted to be part of. Palm Court is the much awarded restaurant and now witnessing it I wasn't surprised of the glory bestowed. The Ritz itself is so dramatic and surreal, like a still-breathing prodigy of a time bygone. And the Palm Court originally designed as a dramatic stage with the mirrored backdrop, lofty marble columns and the gilded gold trellis make it the truly fanciful place to be at.

TEA TIME TREATS: Warm scones with fresh clotted cream and strawberry preserve; finger thin sandwiches and assorted pastries with a dozen teas to choose from complete the Ritz tea experience !
At 35 pounds per person, the tea is the steepest yet, but price is not of significance as you sit here and munch what was ratified by King Edward VI, Noel Coward, Evelyn Waugh and Charlie Chaplin. Gold and pale green china, silver tea assortments and the three-tier stand flaunting scones with Devonshire cream and organic strawberry preserve, alongwith its inseparable companions - sandwiches and afternoon tea cakes. Don't forget that you don't get entry unless jacket-clad.


The Mandarin Oriental

The Mandarin Oriental serves up the very British tea with unparalleled views of Hyde Park across and a delightful spread to match. At Knightsbridge with Harvey Nichols right across and Harrods round the bend the hotel offers the very best of High Street London shopping at its doorstep!
Surprisingly this celebrated Oriental chain has adapted so very beautifully to English tea traditions. The Mandarin Oriental with its Knightsbridge location and picturesque views of Hyde Park is an absolute delight. And its day-diner The Park, with Hyde Park looking through its windows, offers afternoon tea. Minus the fancy extras - the piano, the rich Victorian d�cor and the accompanying swagger - but a delightfully complete tea experience nevertheless.

More Tea...
The Sukhothai, Bangkok a spectacular yet very conventional Thai hotel, had me raising a toast to their English tea service! Complete with three-tier tray and goodies in keeping with the original.


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