I SWEPT into the curving driveway of the Taj West End at Bangalore in a Mercedes 2000, like in one of those television commercials with the Nawab of Pataudi selling oil paints or worsted suitings. I dare say this luxury hotel has been featured in ads. before, it has that kind of feel about it. Like you�ve got it at the back of your mind. Or you�ve seen it before. In fact, I had... sometime in the late Eighties. And to my great delight, I found the property had not changed much in the interval in between. Meaning, I could find my way to the breakfast buffet at the Garden Cafe next morning without asking for directions.

Since the West End is located right across the road from the Bangalore Racecourse and Turf Club, I sort of expected to bump into all kinds racing types who follow the horses around the country. But it turned out the racing season was not on when I was at the West End. And the only person I, well, bumped into was Mr. J. J. Bhabha of the National Centre of Performing Arts. Turned out this time that I was occupying his favourite suite (the Jacaranda) of the last 20 years. I was happy to surrender it back to him... for a more practical suite located near the lobby. Besides, the Jacaranda was half a kilometre away and kind of wearing out the shoe leather.

I don�t know why the Taj has categorised the West End as a luxury hotel. It is so admirably located, that it could be marketed as an all-purpose hotel. Sure, I know Bangalore has a bagful of Taj properties. A Gateway, a Residency and even the late and lamented Protima Bedi�s dance school somewhere outside the city that Taj has converted into a stone, mud and bricks getaway called Kuteeram. But what�s wrong with using the West End for hardcore business too when it takes you to the Garden City?

I look at the West End as a garden resort in a garden city. It nestles comfortably off the bustling main road in 22 acres of its own private space. The built-up area, to my immense surprise, is just over six acres. The rest is magnificent greenery. You cannot breathe in a cleaner-greener and fresher environment than this anywhere else in Bangalore, that�s for sure.

And what an environment! Wooded glades and pathways strewn with divine smelling, colourful blooms. Architecturally grand villas and mansions reminiscent of the Raj. Plus other colonial memorabilia, including a stately old pill box off the teak and marble lobby that the Bangalore P&T still honours by collecting the mail from twice a day!

I marvel at how they manage to combine modern hotel management techniques with the tugging charm of yesteryear at the West End, but they seem to be doing a great job. And nowhere is this best brought out than at the West End�s restaurants, the Garden Cafe with its Continental and Anglo-Indian cuisines, the Colonnade Bar, and Paradise Island, an open-air garden restaurant serving the most happening Thai and Chinese food in all of Bangalore city. All the outlets live up to the Taj�s standards and then set some more for haute cuisine and immaculate service.

To my regret, I could indulge in only one long, lingering meal at Paradise Island last time I was at West End. It was dinner. And, I swear on the Sleeping Buddha of Bangkok, that I can close my eyes and still get the bitter-tangy, pungent-sweet flavours of galangal ginger and lemon grass in the Tom Yaam Goong soup that I ate then.

Not to mention the vastly different green and red herbal curries of prawn and beef, and the mildly spicy chicken in coconut milk. That was some magical dinner, sitting in the exotic setting of Paradise Island and letting Chef Sumet Sumpachanyanont and F&B Manager Sudhendu Pandit take over, while the crickets, frogs and other creatures of the night played their orchestra into the late hours.

But the gardens, restaurants and its Raj hangover apart, the West End is not unlike your 21st century Taj hotel in any cosmopolitan city. It has all the modern comforts, including state of the art telecommunications, and leisurely pursuits like a gym, sauna, pool and jaccuzi. Plus, hidden in the thick of the shrubbery, fantastic flood-lit tennis courts that the ATP ought to consider for its next international meet. And the rooms... there are a total of 129, I�m told, but their break-up is a little unusual.

Like there are poolside rooms and rooms with private verandahs. Then there are rooms with sitouts and rooms with old world charm. There are modern Taj Club rooms and penthouse suites. And cottages, executive suites, luxury suites and one single Presidential Suite. Total: 129. To get around in those 22 acres, the West End kindly provides a golf buggy.

But, it is my private opinion that the West End�s USP is its grand old trees, lush greenland and rolling lawns. Today, Bangalore is reckoned by the outside world to be the fastest growing city in India, the hub of the computer and avionics industries. Perfectly true, of course... but outside the West End, which, god bless, is all old world charm and grace. While wandering around the property, the greenery, peace and quiet so got to me that I almost forgot I was on work.

I would have dearly loved to hang up my Nikon and drink it all in and luxuriate the senses. But I was walking in the footsteps of the gardeners Sankarappa and Mastegowda, who lovingly nurse the 650 old trees and 3.5 lakh plants with 17 other malis. I had asked them to take me around the West End.

I figured a reconnaissance would be educative and a lot of fun. It was. And I hadn�t even asked for a buggy.