...And A Bar That Is Like
The Chemistry Lab!

IN the middle of the Indigo Restaurant, like an island of exotic liquers, stands the Indigo Bar, presided over by Eric Lobo. It may not be the most complete bar in town, but it is certainly the most enterprising and exciting. It is also a fun bar that takes its liquor seriously. Let me tell you how seriously.

First, it is the only bar in town and country where wine sells as much as spirits, which means civilised drinking. The cellar holds champagnes ranging down from Louis Roederer Cristal Rose Vintage (1990) to sparkling wines and wines from the famous vineyards of Alsace, Bourgognes, from Italy, Germany and Austria, and from the New World, from Australia, Napa Valley, it has dessert wine, port, sherry. You don't have to drink it all, but it is good to know that there is somewhere to go to when your son graduates or the daughter gets married. And it has a large variety of Blended Scotch, 14 labels of Single Malt, and it has Apertifs, Liqueurs, Cognacs, there are three varieties of Grappas, the Tignanello Antinori, Ruffino Reserva Ducale and Cabreo Il Borgo Tenimenti Ruffino.

Now let's put away the liquor list and talk liquor. Eric Lobo has the hands of a bartender, smoothly flowing like wind and water, the kind of hands the only others to have are music conductors and surgeons. But he has the mind of a chemist. Therefore his menu presents five test tubes under the general heading of Indigo Chemistry. And they are exactly what they say they are � test tubes. Regular customers also call them shooters. You pick up a test tube and shoot it down your throat. Then minutes later, if you feel like it, shoot another one down. Or, if you like, you may burse your shooter. Each tube has his combination of in-house liqueurs. Hence, test tube 1 has tequila, passoa and cointreau, test tube 2 has tequila, khalua and indigo cream, test tube 3 is vodka, tequila and malibu, so forth... You may buy a six rack, for a discount, the same brand or various brands, and work through it. And you sit at the bar or table with the rack of six in front of you and feeling somewhat macho. It's a nice feeling.

The place is also justly famous for its Kiwi Margheritas, if I mistake not Eric pioneered it. Most bartenders still use melons or leeches. He uses fresh kiwi pulp, tequila, kiwi liqueur and a splash of lime, and sugar as a binding agent. And he also makes Indigo's famous Caipiroica, where the lemon is wedged, the seeds carefully removed, sugar and mint added, then the whole thing macerated in a wooden mortar. Served with vodka and crushed ice. And the magic does not end here. The place is strong on vodkas and they have them blended with all sorts of spices. Try the cumin-pepper-chilli vodka, where the three vodkas are mixed, and served with tomato juice and more cumin powder for strength.

Eric says it will take two hours to discover the entire bar. He is underestimating his bar, it will take two full days and nights and then some more. For instance, the Day After. This is an afternoon drink, served in a champagne tulip glass, and guaranteed to cure the night before's worst hangover in history, when 100 pipers are playing their shrill pipes inside your poor head. Dr. Lobo takes fresh papaya pulp, fresh cream, a hint of pineapple juice, coconut water, and a jig of the spirit that gave you the hangover last night. The hair of the dog, indeed.

I could go on, but I shall end with plans for the new season which has already arrived. Indigo is reviving Martini memories, the way they were big and popular in the '70s. They are putting on the bar counter 25 types of Martinis, besides the classic Martini. They have got Martinis from Goa, Cajun, Morrocco, Wild Ginger, Spiked Martinis, Fruit Martinis, melon, apple, orange, Dessert Martinis. There is also an Indigo Martini. There has to be. It is a 12 ounce Martini, wine based, three parts gin, one part dry vermouth, the body done in white wine. Cheers. Have wine with the food, the spirits before and after.

INDIGO, 4, Mandlik Road, Colaba, Bombay 400 001. Tel: 285 6316, 292 3592. E-mail: [email protected]