MANGALOREANS, those great gourmets of the South Kanara coast, tend to believe that the coconuts that grow in their seaside city are tastier, milkier, and better in every way than those that grow elsewhere in the country. Particularly in neighbouring Kerala (whose very name translates to mean �the coconut state�) and Goa further west down the coast, two states known for their production of coconut and the influence of the fruit on the local cuisine.

Chefs of the city, who know about such things, say that this has got something to do with the salinity of the sea around Mangalore, and the soil and water content. All are ideal for coconut plantation. The Mangalore coconut is milky and sweet, and its flesh, soft and creamy. When added to food in the form of coconut milk, it adds taste and lends body. Mangalorean cuisine depends on it absolutely. Other cuisines, particularly further down South, in Kerala and Tamil Nadu, prefer coconut paste. Or even copra, which, when combined with spices, produces an altogether different food compared to the Mangalorean's... despite the use of coconut in all.

Incredibly, the way coconut milk is produced depends quite a bit on the climate of the city. In the monsoon and winter, when the coconut is being ground for its milk, a little warm water is used to activate the oil in the fruit so that the milk comes out better. The first extract of the milk is thick and creamy and is kept aside and not used as milk. It is added as a sauce in any coconut-based recipe. A total of three extracts are taken out of each coconut and all three are used in Mangalorean cooking. The milk, apart from adding its unique flavour to the food, acts as a thickening agent by bringing volume to the dish.

Mangalorean chefs will not attempt to make certain dishes, like the fish, mutton and chicken curries, without coconut milk.