Singapore
A Roaring Good Time In Singapore
Sanitised, organised and small enough to cover in two days, three if you want to take it slow. Singapore is a city-state that’s got history, architecture, food and a vibe to uncover. Do it like we did − staying at Four Seasons − on foot, in a sidecar, and you’ll be just fine
Text: Lyle Michael
Where else do I begin this Southeast Asian sojourn than with the scene from one of the most popular rom-coms of our times! One that was adapted from the bestseller by Kevin Kwan, which I lapped up in a jiff, with the farewell ‘happy ending’ at the 57th floor Sands Skypark Observation Deck. Crazy Rich Asians fans in the house will know just the thrill I derived from looking over Singapore from way up high. You could literally map out your trip from up here, knowing full well that you could do it all in two days. And I did!
Expect top shots of the shimmering Louis Vuitton showroom, the bauble-like Apple store, the petal-like Art & Science Museum, the durian-shaped domes of the Esplanade, and the Merlion, all sitting peacefully on the waters of the bay. Look to your left and spot the famed 160-ft. tall ‘supertrees’ that look like they popped out of Stranger Things for all you can conjure. They’re neatly devised as part of Gardens by the Bay, which stood looming and inviting, of verdant hues, sights you rarely come by in concrete jungles like ours back home. Sure, you could call Singapore a concrete jungle, too, but its cleanliness and greenery differentiate it from the norm.
There’s a relaxed yet fast-paced feel about Singapore, in a concurrence that works. Sanitised is what you will often come across when Singapore is being described, for it is. More in its routine way of functioning, neat, boot-licking clean – not a chit of paper on the streets – with grey skies and a monsoon that runs year round, in two seasons. The city is also posh and culturally diverse, a breath of fresh air and an island city that’s pretty popular for tourists who place safety as one of their main factors for a destination. The transport system won’t leave you asking strangers how to get by and a lot of the hotspots can be accomplished on foot, which I aced, fuelled by hearty brekkies at the Hawker’s Bazaar, for instance, on China Town. All this is easily accessible by Metro, from Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, where I was staying, on Orchard Boulevard – right next to the most serene of Buddhist temples.
Four Seasons is centrally located with a plethora of experiences laid out for you, from great dining options − Michelin, speciality, a bar called One Ninety with attached al fresco dining− to adventures like a Vespa tour and a visit to a Peranakan home. It’s a hotel that eases you in, in its comfort and luxury. It does not overwhelm the senses! It’s plush and it’s easy-going, with its warm interiors, its elegant rooms and lavish suites, with views of the city from your expansive window. Lay back in the outdoor pool, sweat it out on the open-air tennis court or the 24-hour gym – you might want to, to burn off some of the calories from all the Singapore fare.
There is heavy emphasis on seafood in Singapore and meats like beef and pork. For a vegetarian, it is not the best place to be, fact’s a fact! So after some juicy oyster omelette, popiah(spring roll with turnip, diced boiled eggs, bean sprouts), the famed Fish & Peanut Porridge, steaming hot sui mai, rice cakes with fish sauce and strong black coffee, I was off to indulge in some green therapy at Gardens by the Bay. Not something you can afford to miss, even if nature is not your thing! Then again, how could it not be!
Spanning 260 acres, this “greenhouse” welcomes you with a refreshing spray of cool rain in its waterfall before you head on to explore its Cloud Forest, its magnificent Flower Dome, Supertree Grove and audiovisuals which can keep you mesmerised. All while you get an aerial view while traipsing along the lengthy OCBC Skyway, suspended between two supertrees, giving you the feeling of being on top of the world, within a cooled conservatory, with HD air around. Architectural marvels do not cease to amaze in Singapore! So too the food, especially the Chinese and Japanese fare, more so the former.
While the Michelin-starred Nobu awaited – an exclusive Four Seasons entrant in 2022 – with its Zen outdoor garden and private show kitchen dining, it was Jiang-Nan Chun that had me wanting for more (more on that later). That said, do do the Weekend Brunch at Nobu, and laze back with a champagne, some sake and sushi embellished with the finest of caviar and chunks of avocado. The Black Cod Miso and the Mushroom Toban Yaki, and ah yes, the Steak Toban Yaki are must-haves here, especially the beef! The Nobu Style Cheesecake with fresh raspberry is a delight and just right to set you off on a little siesta. You know the saying, something to the effect of, ‘rest goes astray when on a vacay’…applied here, for I was on adrenaline; after all, I was on work! So, off to some sightseeing, shopping and more walking, I went!
The cultural hotspot known as Little India beckoned, with its sights and sounds, and familiar smells from crowded streets – albeit far cleaner than our own – and South Indian foods with Punjabi fare to complement. You could stop by for a DIY pani puri and a chai at Kailash Parbat like I did and get your fix of knickknacks off local shops and steals galore from where else but Mustafa – the once ruling shopping centre in Singapore, South East Asia if you may. It still stands strong, running through the night with everything under one roof, across four levels. You haven’t been to Singapore if you haven’t been to Mustafa Shopping Centre. Just one of those things you have to do! Like pose by the Merlion, the mascot of Singapore, the fabled creature with the head of a lion and the body of a merman.
Stand by the white statue that spouts water from its mouth all day long, and walk along the Singapore River on the Fullerton Hotel side of the pier, over the Esplanade Bridge. The light drizzle makes it all so pleasant to experience though the dull skies do add a touch of murk in the air. That’s Singapore for you, and I went on about my day as a tourist, spotting little cafés by the kerb and nooks dotted with art and walls with graffiti, and tall scrapers, mega malls and CBDs juxtaposed with charming shophouses that typify the Peranakan culture. Sir Raffles, the “architect” of Singapore as a modern city, commissioned the development of these structures that brought cheer to the streets, with their French windows, Corinthian columns, decorative walls and spacious verandahs with depth, to offer shelter to passersby in the rain.
Speaking of Peranakan culture…The highlight of this Singaporean sojourn was dinner and a song at a Peranakan home, more prominently known as The Intan Museum, arranged by Four Seasons. A preface for you: if you’re flying Singapore Airlines, stay tuned to the introductory video, for you will see this very museum and a man playing host at the beginning. Alvin Yapp used to be a flight attendant on this very airline and is today a brand ambassador for his culture and heritage. In Singapore & Malaysia, the culture thrives, going by the definition of Straits-born Chinese – those born in the former Straits Settlements, specifically, Singapore, Penang and Melaka, and their descendants. Step into this centuries-old trove of history and tradition, and tales of yore, of over 5000 artifacts collected from the Peranakan people, be it in SE Asia, China and even as far as England, and get lost in the world that Alvin and his family have nurtured with care. The Intan is like coming home.
Alvin is a gregarious soul who not just dresses the part but also walks the talk. And the man can talk! And sing and play the piano and regale you for hours on his people, his culture, his post-war home and guests who have paid a visit. One of whom was the late Chadwick Boseman, Black Panther himself. You can click photographs on the ground level but once you move upstairs – while ceramic tiffin carriers of varied hues line your path – no siree, that’s off camera bounds! You would not even feel like clicking when the vast collections of Peranakan treasure sit cosy in their enclaves and black and white subjects stare right at you from an era gone by. You have to visit this private museum, awarded the Best Overall Experience by the National Heritage Board of Singapore – one that gives back to its community – to see it for yourself.
You have to visit to dine at this legendary table, groaning under the weight of a seven-dish meal, either lunch or dinner, by appointment only. Alvin’s father dons the apron while Alvin pours some crisp reds and brings out the dishes one by one. From watercress to tofu in black bean paste with the whole nut included, pandan rice, the tastiest of aubergine in a sweet sauce, a rich mutton curry, spiced shrimp, deep-fried chicken, and colourful coconut milk and jelly-based dessert squares that you might just not have space for!
How do you end the night at The Intan on a higher note? Request your favourites and Alvin will serenade, while you sing along; and boy, do his fingers move masterfully! Yesterday and Falling in Love with You, with a glass of wine in hand, feeling the night in your bones while the mind etches the moment to later become a memory…the big little joys of life!
Just like a meal that cuts right through the soul, a sumptuous, hearty one, with gentle touches and subtle service that do not overwhelm. Oh, what a joy the Cantonese meal at Four Seasons’ Jiang-Nan Chun was! Seated in the PDR of the neatly-done restaurant, warm, both in its interiors and its service, with the effervescent hotel manager, Tobias Emmer for company, was another highpoint of my trip. The best part? Customised menus for each diner, keeping in mind dietary preferences and restrictions, and names right on top! And a show of the Peking duck being sliced, temptingly so. While the duck, from the Jiang-Nan Chun Cherry Valley, was crisp, ceremoniously eaten in small, thin flatbreads, it was the Dim Sum Combination that had the mouth watering. Paper-thin casings gave way to the most delicious crystal cod, morel mushroom, and truffle crystal mushroom fillings with every bite, deftly taken a la
my chopsticks, with a variety of sauces to dip into – Sichuan pepper the fiery, addictive one! I sipped on ginger tea through the meal which certainly aided in digesting the (welcome) onslaught of Cantonese on the plate.
Not a potage person as much, I skipped the Hot & Sour Soup with Shredder Chicken and did justice to the Sautéed Hong Kong Kalian with Ginger Sauce. The Chinese broccoli was doused well in a sweetish ginger sauce, and was crisp to the bite. A stickler for good pork, really done smooth and succulent, I was pleased with the Sweet & Sour Pork with Fresh Figs – a combination that helped combat the Sichuan sauce for sure! The duck presented itself yet again, minced and flavourful, in fried rice, before a much-needed break was in the offing. Thankfully, as is the case with sweets in this part of the world, it’s not heavy, healthy actually, and perfect to bring up the rear, such a heavy one at that! Chilled Aloe Vera with Lemongrass Jelly ended my meal; and I must say, Executive Chinese Chef Alec Khoo, you did great!
Post such an indulgence, a ride around town in a Vespa sounds like just the thing the doctor ordered! So, I set off, in my chosen colour, helmet on, to discover more of Singapore via sidecar, courtesy Singapore Sidecars. What a thrill, right from the rider, nay ‘storyteller’, waiting for me at the hotel to discovering spots like an art, culture and music house upon a hill to playing mini celebrities, having my photograph clicked with other riders as we queued up in our multihued army of rider and pillion. Founded by Simon Wong, by chance, Singapore Sidecars has gone on to win world records and earned credit for riding stars like Emma Raducanu and Benedict Cumberbatch around Singapore! And Simon aims proceeds of these vintage rides to the field of cancer research, after he lost his wife to the disease, at a young age.
Such are the encounters, the people, places and cultural exchanges that make travel so special. Experiences like eating crab with your hands in gloves, while donning a bib, chugging down Tiger beer, acing the Metro like a local, posing by Clarke Quay, the historical riverside spot with live bands and restaurants, and watching the light and sound show at Marina Bay, reminiscent of the Dancing Fountains of Dubai…
After all these pumped-up moments, a nice long massage was the cherry on top. The Four Seasons Spa was a haven for those 90 minutes, where nimble fingers worked to ease my tensed muscles, Peranakan style.
These and more are what I brought back home from my little sojourn in Singapore, a city for all seasons.