Goa Garnishes

A state that once relied primarily on beachside shacks and local restaurants has seen a shift towards more upscale dining. UpperCrust parses through the milieu of the fancy-free and the fine-dines, to pick 10 culinary gems that have thrived about 25 years

Text By: Nolan Mascarenhas

Goa, a small yet vibrant state, has long been celebrated for its stunning beaches, rich cultural heritage and unique culinary scene. Since 1999, the dining landscape has undergone significant transformations, reflecting broader changes in tourism, globalisation and local preferences.

The turn of the millennium marked a significant increase in tourism. As international visitors flocked to the state, local dining establishments began to diversify their offerings. Traditional Goan cuisine, characterised by its use of fresh seafood, coconut, and spices, remained popular, but there was a notable shift towards a more eclectic culinary scene. Restaurants began incorporating global influences, leading to the emergence of fusion dishes that blended Goan flavours with international cuisines such as Italian, Mexican and Asian. The growth of the tourism industry also encouraged the establishment of beach shacks and casual dining spots, catering to a wide range of budgets. These informal eateries became synonymous with Goa's laid-back lifestyle, offering fresh seafood and local delicacies in a relaxed setting. The rise of such establishments provided both locals and tourists with affordable dining options, contributing to a vibrant culinary culture.

Traditional Goan dishes have been elevated to new heights by chefs who began to experiment with contemporary techniques and presentation. This shift has attracted a more discerning clientele, eager to explore innovative takes on classic flavours. The rise of fine-dining reflects a broader trend in Indian cuisine, where culinary experiences are increasingly seen as an integral part of travel.

Over the last 10-15 years, Goa’s café culture has exploded, especially in the North – Anjuna, Assagao and Baga. The growth of independent cafés offering everything from speciality coffee to international breakfast menus has provided an alternative to traditional Goan food outlets. The appeal of artisanal coffee and hipster cafés, vegan cakes and international snacks has fostered a café culture, making them community hubs for digital nomads, expats and tourists, and catalysts for the youth's food preferences.

As awareness of health and sustainability has grown globally, so too has the focus on these values in Goa's dining scene. Since 1999, there has been a shift towards organic and locally-sourced ingredients. Many restaurants now prioritise sustainable practices, such as reducing food waste and using eco-friendly packaging. This trend aligns with growing consumer demand for transparency and ethical sourcing in the food industry.

Moreover, the introduction of vegetarian and vegan options has gained momentum in recent years. With an increasing number of health-conscious diners and a global shift towards plant-based diets, many restaurants have adapted their menus to cater to these preferences. The proliferation of vegan cafés and health-focused eateries has made Goa a hub for alternative dining options. Cloud kitchens have also gained popularity, making it easier to access a wider variety of food from the comfort of one's home, thus giving one more access with the aid of technology to counteract the astronomical prices of local transport in the state.

The locals stick to the essentials with street food culture playing a predominant role. This remains at the heart of Goa’s culinary identity. Cutlet pao (beef/chicken) and shawarma are the most sought-after delicacies with food trucks and gaddos (local eating joints on wheels) dishing up home-cooked fare, the Miramar promenade filled with golas and chaat thelas as permanent fixtures post work for a quick cost-effective meal. The trend towards gourmet street food has grown, with local vendors and shack owners innovating to present a more polished version of favourites like prawn rava fry, fish thali, sannas, and pork sorpotel. Fusion street food also became popular, blending international flavours with Goan ingredients. For example, Goan-inspired tacos, fish nachos, and chilli crab fries are now staples in many beachside spots around Baga and Candolim. The adaptability of hinterland tourism has seen a resurgence of Goa’s famous offerings for tourists alike in the chorizo pav and feni-driven cocktails with multiple adaptations.

The early 2000s saw the growth of fine dines and the increasing influence of global cuisines in Goa. A state that once relied primarily on simple, beachside shacks and small local restaurants, began to see a shift toward more upscale dining experiences, incorporating elements of international cuisines like Italian, French, Mediterranean, Thai and Japanese. High-end resorts and boutique hotels began to open their own fine-dining restaurants, offering multicourse meals, fusion dishes, and Michelin-inspired creations. This trend also included the growth of wine bars and restaurants offering gourmet pizzas, steaks, sushi and multi-cuisine buffets.

Despite the culinary cacophony invading Goa today, a few gems have stood the test of time, here are 10 such...

Banyan Tree at Taj Holiday Village 

Banyan Tree at Taj Holiday Village in Candolim has a theme which revolves around a harmonious connection with nature. It is named after the 250-year-old banyan tree, a symbol of strength, rootedness and longevity, often associated with wisdom and spirituality.

A pioneer, being the first authentic Thai restaurant in Goa, this restaurant has seen celebrations galore, keeping the essence of the food intact. The Banyan Tree was inaugurated as part of the expansion of the Taj Holiday Village. The theme of the restaurant integrates elements of Goan architecture with Thai elements – wooden beams, terracotta tiles and open spaces with a beautiful Koi moat and arch bridge, blending rustic charm of the region with modern luxury.

Not much has changed physically, though the menu keeps updating itself keeping relevance with 2024.

Must-try items include the Phad Khi-Mao Kung – spicy stir-fried prawns, the Steamed Crab with Thai herbs. Specialities that are finished with freshly picked herbs and spices from their very own garden! And the Thapthim Krop – water chestnuts in coconut milk, is a delectable dessert. The Kabirwad, a Scotch sour, is a delight, named after a 300-year-old banyan tree in Gujarat, to sip on through your meal.

Goenchin

Having started in 1982, they are the pioneers of Chinese cuisine in Goa. The ambience is Far Eastern focusing on authentic Szechwan, Hunan, Cantonese and Beijing cuisine. At a time when Goa was still transitioning into the global tourism destination it is today, the restaurant was founded by a visionary entrepreneur, who recognised the growing popularity of Chinese food in urban centres across India. The name Goenchin is a combination of Goan and Chinese, symbolising the restaurant's focus on a love for both cuisines. The décor maintains a casual, no-frills atmosphere, reflecting its roots as a humble yet beloved eatery.

Despite its simple setting, the restaurant’s friendly service and flavourful food have made it a go-to spot for both locals and tourists looking to experience a twist on Chinese cuisine. The quality is consistent, which has earned it a loyal clientele over decades, those willing to scramble for reservations till today. In addition to its signature dishes, affordable pricing and its ability to cater to a wide range of tastes, from seafood lovers to those seeking vegetarian options, has spelt a tale of success that it rides on till date.

Must-have dishes include the Goenchin Signature Tofu, Fried Stuffed Prawns Wrapped in Flat Noodles, Sticky Pork Ribs with Garlic Egg Fried Rice and Crab Meat Fried Rice.

Souza Lobo

It was established in 1932 as a hotel with rooms and a small shack with 15 tables offering Goan snacks and basic meals, that soon became a hit with the locals raving about its fresh seafood and authentic Goan flavours. The restaurant's location on Calangute Beach made it an attractive spot for both locals and tourists looking to enjoy a meal with a sea view, a tradition that continues till this very day, 92 years later! At its inception, Souza Lobo catered primarily to the locals, offering simple yet flavourful dishes prepared with freshly caught seafood and locally sourced ingredients. An institution surviving the ravages of time and reinventing itself, it’s a fabulous achievement in the day and age when restaurants open and shut in under a year.

Over time, as Goa became a more popular tourist destination, especially with the rise of the hippie movement in the 1960s and 1970s, Souza Lobo expanded its clientele to include international tourists. This marked the beginning of its transformation from a small, local eatery into one of Goa’s most famous restaurants.

Souza Lobo remains a symbol of Goan hospitality and cultural heritage. Its long history and consistent quality have cemented its place as one of the oldest and most respected restaurants in Goa. A must-try is Jude’s Chilli Butter Garlic Crab and the fresh catch of the day done in his family's historical recipes.

 Viva Goa

This restaurant in Colva took root in 1998, when Francis Gomes returned to Goa after years of working in hotels from Bombay to the Middle East and the USA. With a strong background in the hotel industry, he was inspired to create a place that would serve authentic Goan flavours and capture the true essence of Goan cuisine.

For the past 26 years, Francis has dedicated himself to upholding the highest standards of quality, ensuring that every dish embodies Goan authenticity and taste.

This cherished destination offers diners a genuine Goan culinary experience. The highlights one gets to experience are the old-school Beef Macaroni Soup, Prawns Balchao and Mutton Xacuti in true Goan style.

O Coqueiro

O Coqueiro was established in 1975 by Cesar de Souza, who envisioned creating a restaurant that would serve authentic Goan food in a warm, welcoming environment.

The name O Coqueiro translates to 'the coconut tree' in Portuguese, reflecting the restaurant's roots in Goan culture, where coconut is a staple ingredient in many traditional dishes. Initially, it was a small, local eatery catering to the residents of Porvorim and surrounding areas. As Goa’s popularity as a tourist destination grew, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, timed with the high-profile arrest of Charles Shobraj aka The Serpent, O Coqueiro’s reputation shot to further stratospheric levels.

Popular items on the menu include, beef roast, pork sausage in poie and Alle Belle – crepes filled with coconut and jaggery for dessert.

Mum's Kitchen

In Miramar, this was the brainchild of Rony, Maria Suzette and Premila Martins. An ode to Catholic Goan cuisine, this restaurant started in the late '90s and remains one of the most beloved spots in Panjim.

 Its legacy continues to influence Goa’s dining culture, especially with its focus on traditional cooking methods and locally sourced ingredients. A quaint family-run chic setup in the heart of Miramar, they offer a nostalgic dining experience that stays true to its roots while providing a warm and welcoming atmosphere for every guest.

Dishes one ought to try are Keel Dangar – bamboo shoot cutlets, Rissois de Camarao – tiny shrimp pastries stuffed with a cream filling and Komdeche Sukhem – a local chicken delicacy tossed in a spicy marinade of Goan spices.

The Martins' family’s commitment to Goa’s culinary traditions ensures that Mum’s Kitchen remains a cherished part of Goan hospitality, continuing to serve as a haven for those wanting to explore the true flavours of Goa.

George's Bar

This bar has earned a reputation as a quintessential Goan joint, where visitors can experience the authentic and laid-back vibe of Goa without the pretension of some high-end restaurants or touristy bars. Its long-standing presence in the heart of Panjim, and its consistent offering of simple, hearty food and drinks, has made it a staple of the local scene.

Despite newer, trendier bars opening up in Panjim, George's Bar has maintained its loyal clientele, thanks to its commitment to offering a genuine Goan experience and its sense of community. The bar’s location, history and friendly atmosphere ensure that it continues to be a popular destination for those seeking to enjoy Goa’s famed hospitality and laid-back culture in an authentic setting.

Whether you're stopping by for a drink after exploring the church, mingling with locals, or soaking in the atmosphere of Panjim's vibrant streets, George’s Bar remains a timeless part of Goa’s cultural fabric. Do stop by for a cold beer served with piping hot prawn papad and choriz pulao the old-school way.

Martin's Corner

This is more than just a restaurant – it has become a Goan institution and a key player in showcasing Goan cuisine to the world. Over the decades, it has retained its commitment to serving authentic local dishes with a personal touch, ensuring that every meal is a memorable experience. With the tourism spike and many celebrities thronging the establishment, seafood took prominence post a crab served to legendary batsman, Sachin Tendulkar. Lovingly named after the sports icon, its success has not only been due to its delicious taste but also because of the dedication of the Martins' family, who have worked tirelessly to preserve and share the culinary tradition passed down over generations.

Today, Martin’s Corner continues to be a beloved destination for anyone visiting South Goa, and its legacy remains strong, as it continues to attract diners seeking a taste of Goa.

Longuinhos

76 monsoons ago a gunner aboard a ship named Longuinho Almeida Couthino took over an existing restaurant, Casa Portuguese, in the heart of Margao and named it Longuinhos – and the rest is history.

This eatery has been a pitstop for people from the South of Goa to share good bites and foster memories taking it well into 2025!

Matches made in heaven, celebrations post nuptials, patrons over three generations and counting, this establishment has well stood the test of time, still making everything in-house from 8:30 am to 11 pm daily.

Sausage bread, pork roast... and the bakery is still sought-after for old and new patrons alike.

Joet's

This family-run restaurant has been serving the people of Goa and visitors for many years. Nestled on the picturesque Bogmalo Beach in the south, its known for its relaxed vibe, pristine sands and proximity to Dabolim Airport.

The staff are warm and welcoming and its fare of authentic Goan food still caters to its regulars over the years. The never-ending charm lies in its simplicity and its focus on high-quality, fresh produce and catch.

Some of the constants on the menu which still follow the original flavour trail and recipes are the prawn curry, fish thali, grilled fish and xalmi (Goan-style crab curry). A must-try is the bebinca, one of Goa's traditional offerings.

Cocktails like the Joet's Boggler with peach schnapps, vodka, white rum, orange juice and Sprite can keep you at ease while you gaze away at the horizon.