Thai Pavilion

President, Mumbai - IHCL SeleQtions

Thai food

Text: Mohan Krishnan

I’ve interviewed three Thai Chefs – Chef Seefah, founder of Seefah, Chef Khun Yuki founder of Nara Thai, and recently the vivacious Chef Kanya of Thai Pavilion, at the President Hotel.

All three tiger women, powerhouses, fiercely passionate and proud of their cuisine. They bow graciously, speak Thai with that graceful lilt, and one is well advised not to mess with them.

Chef Kanya is dressed like a ninja, full-on elegant black, with a stylish black cap, and bold red lipstick. She tells me her story. "I grew up in a village in southern Thailand. My grandma taught me to cook. She said, when you get married, if you can’t cook, how will you look after your family? I started when I was six. The first thing I learned was to cook rice, on charcoal fire. We had no kitchen gadgets, we did everything by hand – chopping, cutting, slicing. We didn’t buy any ingredients. We grew our vegetables and herbs, my grandpa caught our fish in the river, we had chickens in our yard, we made our own red curry paste. The only thing we bought was meat."

She went to university, then trained in big hotels, working in all departments. She loved cooking, worked five days at a restaurant, and went back to uni over the weekends to specialise as a chef. Chef Kanya, with over 20 years of experience, has now spent six years in Bombay with the Thai Pavilion, and has put her stamp on it.


Khaosan	Crispy Lotus Root Chilli Garlic	Pomelo with Roasted Coconut and Cashew Salad

"When I first came to Bombay, the restaurant was already a success, and had a great reputation. At that time, most of our guests were fond of three main dishes – the Papaya Salad, Pad Thai and Green Curry. I have introduced our guests to new experiences – like the Pomelo Salad, the Wing Bean Salad, and Panang Curry, and these are also very succesful."

"I will only offer our guests what is authentic Thai cuisine, with the best ingredients. We tone down the spice level in certain dishes, so our guests are comfortable. We also offer a full range of vegetarian dishes, which is not typical in Thailand."

"I have started an herb garden at the hotel, and at home, so we can get fresh, genuine produce. My balconies at home are full of plants. We make our own curry paste, we don’t buy packets."

Raghu Deora, Director of Culinary Operations at the hotel, adds, "Chef Kanya has all our vendors nervous, because she is such a perfectionist. She knows exactly what ingredients she wants, and will not accept anything that is not perfect. If the pomelo is even slightly bitter, it will be rejected."

She says, "It is my reputation on the line. If the food is bad, everyone turns to me. I know exactly how the food should taste, and the balance it must have. I know if the ingredients our vendors bring us are right. If not, out!"

"I love to go into the Colaba Market, and see what produce is available. I discover vegetables like the long, thinner brinjal, which is also available in Thailand, and use them for our dishes here. I enjoy going to the Sassoon Dock fish market, so I can guide our vendors on what seafood I want."

The menu states that it offers royal Thai cuisine. Chef Raghu explains, "The signature of all Asian food is that it presents a balance; Thai food achieves this with the five fundamental flavours – savoury, spicy, sweet, bitter and salty. This is only possible by using the finest produce, the most authentic ingredients, the true pastes and spices, and the most delicate cooking techniques. This is true of all Thai fine-dining."

Thai Royal cuisine pays attention to refinement, over heat. The fiery chilli is toned down, so it does not overwhelm the palate. No bones, no mess. Royals ate with their fingers, or a fork and spoon (no knives at the table). Time intensive, slow-cooking techniques – impossible with street food. Small, multi-course formats, rather than large sharing plates. All of which are found in the food at Thai Pavilion, though the portions are generous.

Chef Kanya says, "The one thing we don’t do is the exquisite carving of fruit and vegetables turned into flowers and scenes." She whipped out her phone and showed me pictures, and wryly said, "Takes too much time."

Chef Raghu spoke about how all the vivid colours in Thai food are drawn from the natural ingredients… the pandan leaf for green, red from the watermelon, yellow from turmeric, and blue from blue pea flower.

I have eaten at the Thai Pavilion often, and have stayed away from the salads. Chef Kanya treated me to both the pomelo and wing bean salads, and I am a convert. The pomelo has just that slight hint of sweet, the wing bean has crunch and spice, and both are perfect to kick off a meal.

I relish their seafood, which is always on point, and I am very partial to their Soft-Shell Crab. I have also enjoyed their pork dishes, cooked to perfection. The food is always pleasing to the eye, and I have never had a bad meal or experience there.

I asked Chef Raghu about the independent standalone restaurants that have sprung up in the last 25 years. "Many have been started by chefs who were trained at the Taj. They know standards, they know quality. They know that they don’t have the backing of a giant hotel chain, so they must succeed, no second chances. They are entrepreneurial, and are very focused on innovation."

What lies ahead? Chef Raghu is clear. "We want to work with local farmers who are growing the most beautiful mushrooms – this will add greater depth to our vegetarian dishes. We will bring in more international seafood as part of our fine-dining experience."

Chef Kanya’s eyes sparkle when I ask her what’s next for the restaurant. "In the next three years, I want to see a beautiful new menu with more food from southern Thailand." I’ve no doubt she’ll get what she wants.