China House

Grand Hyatt Mumbai Hotel and Residences

Text: Mohan Krishnan

We first encountered Peking Duck at Mr Chow’s in London. What an experience. That set us off on a trek to find the best PD ever. Mr Chow’s on 57th Street, Peking Duck House, Tse Yang and Shun Lee in Manhattan, One Harbour Road and many others in Hong Kong. All excellent.

In most places, PD is done three ways – first, the crispy skin wrapped in a light pancake slathered with plum sauce; next, the meat cooked in a wok with exquisite vegetables; and finally, a wonderful soup.

In 2008, we discovered the PD at China House in Bombay, and our search for the sublime was over. It’s an elegant restaurant. The entrance is striking, mod/trad, and the hero is the gorgeous open, live kitchen. They have a special oven, where the PD is cooked on the spit. The chef ensures that it’s perfect, then brings it out table side for the carving, slicing, and devouring. We always got the table right in front of the oven. Our gastric juices were amped up and ready for the feast.

The Dim sum is another level, and we had to pace ourselves between the two delicacies. We always left full of belly and heart.

Over the years, nothing has changed. I was delighted to learn that Chef Zhang, the Dim sum maestro has been with China House from the very beginning, and Chef Li who orchestrates the PD and the Beggar’s Chicken is also an old hand.

The Pagoda Area	Evenings at the Pagoda area	The bar is set!

As we sat down, Chef Neeraj Tyagi, Culinary Director for West India, asked if we would like the duck. Yes please. "Fire the duck," he ordered. "It takes 45 minutes. So, we’ll start you off with Dim sums."

What a feast. The Dim sums came in the lightest of wrappers, just enough to encase the delicacy, without any intrusion into the taste. We had:

• Black Pepper Chicken 
• Steamed Crab Meat and Scallops, with shrimp and egg-white, topped with salmon roe
• A delicate crab soup, with divine broth
• Crispy Cheung Fun
• Crispy Vegetable Dumpling with an artistically delicate crust.
• Chicken dumpling with soup inside. Take a bite out of the side, drain the hot soup, and then eat
• Mashed Edamame with Truffle

A delightful range of sauces came with different dumplings. There is a ginger sauce, with sliced ginger, that I can still taste.

And then the duck. A fully cooked golden bird, expertly carved. How delicately the skin crust and then the meat was shaved off, and the slices placed on a plate.

A basket full of steaming pancakes, and a trio of small bowls – plum sauce, garlic paste and sugar. Yes, sugar. You dip the crispy side of the sliced duck gently in sugar, just a few crystals, and pop it in your mouth. WOW.

We slathered the plum sauce all over the pancake, the thinly-sliced scallions and cucumber were layered on top, we rolled it up, and chowed down. The ultra-creamy garlic paste, had been whipped up to an airy texture. We dipped the roll in the paste and slurped away.

The last course was the light, perfect end. Delicate pieces of Steamed Sea Bass, jasmine rice and Wok-Tossed Veggies.

Table-Torched Green Tea Brûlée. Chilled Honey Melon Sago. And done.

I’ve saved the best news for the last. They have set menus, ranging from Rs.3700 to Rs. 5000. The menus are generous, and give you a tour of what the restaurant offers. The last even has Peking Duck, and is banquet length. Incredible value.

I’ll be back for the Beggar’s Chicken, more Wok-Tossed Veggies, Pork Belly and the Soft-Shelled Crab. Mainly, I’ll be back.

A delicious spread	Dimsum	Fish & Seafood	Dessert