Turkish Delights

The Land Of Mezze, Kebabs, Baklava!

Turkish cuisine has long tantalised my taste buds and a visit to this wondrous nation, steeped in Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman culture, is always as delectable as it is delightful.

Text: Fahad Samar

Flying into Ataturk airport, my wife Simone and I were whisked to the resplendent Shangri- La, Bosphorus where our suite commanded a stunning view of the famous turquoise-tinted strait that separates two continents. We had elected to stay six nights in Istanbul to leisurely explore the historic city formerly named Constantinople, after the Byzantine Emperor Constantine.

Our first meal in Turkey was a medley of mezzes, kebabs and koftas at the Shangri-La's waterfront bistro, where we grappled with delicious finger foods and the fact that we were luxuriating in Europe while gazing out at Asia. The next few days were spent visiting monuments that have driven armies into battle and poets into rapture. The Sultanahmet or Blue Mosque, renowned for its magnificent interiors of azure Iznik tiles. The Hagia Sofia, the ancient basilica built by Constantine, considered one of the world's greatest architectural marvels. The lavish Dolmabahce and Topkapi Palaces, that house innumerable treasures including personal artifacts said to belong to Prophet Muhammad (PBUH).

Between our excursions we would snack on street fare like pide (flat breads sprinkled with cheese and mincemeat), and dolmas (stuffed vine leaves). I developed quite an affinity for ayran, the tastier Turkish version of Indian chaas. In the evenings we feasted on local specialties like the aubergine-based Imam Bayildi and an array of succulent meats like Adana, Bostan, Iskender and Testi kebabs, the latter theatrically served at our table in a flaming earthenware jug.

The mandatory visit to tourist traps like the Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar resulted in the purchase of not only a few trinkets but also a smorgasbord of Turkish Delights and an astonishing variety of pistachio and almond filled baklavas.  

Following my nose through the winding market streets, I soon located Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, the legendary store where most locals queue to purchase Turkish coffee powder. A two-hour boat cruise on the Bosphorus was made all the more pleasurable with the aroma of freshly ground coffee wafting from my rucksack. It was a fragrance that would long linger in my luggage. Istanbul had proved a feast for the senses and we flew to Cappadocia for a change of pace and an experience that will remain forever etched in our memory.

Rising at 4.00 am in our cave hotel we were driven to the countryside where we could barely distinguish silhouettes of sleeping giants. Then, one by one, gas cylinders were ignited and these slumbering behemoths rose, bathed in a golden glow, to become fully inflated, massive hot air balloons that soon lifted us into the sky. As the sun began to rise in the distance we peered at the enchanted landscape that extended below us for miles; these were the mystical, mythical fairy chimneys of Cappadocia. 90 minutes later we were back on terra firma, but our heads were still in the clouds, giddy from celebratory champagne and an adventure considered a must-do on most bucket lists.

Next on our itinerary was a visit to the shrine of the great Sufi mystic Jalaluddin Rumi in Konya. Ours was a pilgrimage to pay respect to the savant who has touched the lives of millions with his wisdom and his verse. The Mevlana's message of peace and religious tolerance is as pertinent today as it was when he preached in the 13th century and we were moved to tears as we witnessed the Sufi dervishes perform the Sema dance, whirling ceaselessly to connect with the One.

After 12 days of travel it was time to put up our feet in idyllic Bodrum where the Mandarin Oriental has a spectacular luxury beach resort overlooking the Aegean Sea. As we entered our sprawling villa, replete with a private lap pool, I knew this was the perfect venue to relax and rejuvenate. While Simone enjoyed a traditional hammam experience at the Mandarin Oriental Spa, I decided to lounge in a cabana at the pristine Blue Beach and browse through a book I had picked up in Konya.

That evening,we dined on exquisite poached lobster and roasted sea bass which visiting two-Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Dunand had specially prepared. As waves gently lapped the wooden dining deck at Assaggio, the al fresco Italian restaurant, we raised a toast to our travels with some excellent Turkish wine. I was filled with gratitude that our journey from the Bosphorusto Bodrum had proved so enriching.

Remembering a quote from Rumi I had read earlier that day, I smiled. "And you? When will you begin that long journey into yourself?"