All-day Cafés Buzzing and Busy

Cafés of yore were the Irani restaurants, which unfortunately have all but disappeared. Our cafés these days are charming, cheerful, bright and buzzing, with eclectic food choices. These are open all day, from 10 am to midnight, where, refreshingly, patrons are from all age groups and cutting across all backgrounds.

All-day cafés are not just coffee spaces but encompass all a diner can enjoy throughout the day. Which is why we have few that might not fit the perceived notion. Take a look.

You just can't go wrong eating out at any of the ones we have selected for you; each with its own inimitable ambience and absolutely divine menu.

Leopold Cafe

When visiting our city of islands, one of the major attractions might be the Gateway of India but equally significant is this 1871-established eatery by Farzad Jehani and Deenyar Irani, not too far from there. There is really no introduction needed for Leopold but indulge you, we must. How could we not have the Colaba staple in our pick of all-day diners? After more than 150 years, and all the storms weathered, it has stood strong and continues to be packed to the tables.

When we, non-tourists, visit Leopold, it’s mostly chill time with cronies, a pitcher of beer and club sandwiches. But the vast and consistent menu – we’re not quite sure when it underwent a rehaul and stayed that way – has something for everyone. Well, Continental, Mughlai and Chinese food lovers that is. Akuri is a speciality and a crowd-pleaser, the stroganoff, too. Mutton Kheema Pav is pretty much what you do at an Irani café and of course, and the Leopold Special Pasta with veg/chicken/prawns, when at Leo’s. There’s another weakness of ours when here. The Hot Apple Pie and the Chocolate Truffle Pastry. Sure, when in the mood, you could do a Navratan Korma or a Chicken Chilli Dry, but preferably, do Continental for that’s what the ambience even commands. Those tall beams, mirrors on the wall (some still hiding the bullet wounds from the terror attacks of 2008) and frames such as The Beatles on their famed Abbey Road crosswalk. 

Leo’s is a must for everyone in their lifetime, whether a Bombayite or not. There’s no dress code if you’re wondering. Step in for breakfast, lunch, dinner, teatime, what have you.

Cafe Mondegar

A few feet away from Leo’s is this other iconic café that tourists and city dwellers alike, flock to on all days of the week. Right at the start of Colaba Causeway – the street where little trinkets attract customers and old artefacts tempt the collectors, and where sales merchants triple the price for foreigners and haggle with the locals – stands this capacious eatery, with murals painted by cartoonist, Mario Miranda and an age-old jukebox which continues to belt out tunes as per your choice. It’s retro, it’s hip, fun, energetic, vibrant and has a separate space for more private and air-conditioned dining, too. Since 1932, Bombay has been gifted this European-styled café by the Yazdegardi family and it will stay this way for time immemorial.

Mondy’s is where you go to kick back a few (beers) while chomping down on those soft grilled chicken sausages and talking shop or your feelings over the loud music. Beer bites also include Mondy's Steak Boti and the fish fingers with tartare. Beef chilli and the Chicken & Cheese Burger are delish and the Stuffed Mushroom with cottage cheese, Cheddar, herbs and spinach, just as much. King prawns are delicately and sumptuously wrapped in bacon for the seafood lover. Steaks are de rigueur at Mondy’s. The
Grilled Tenderloin with mushrooms, capsicum, cheese and paprika is served atop a bed of pepper sauce and served with what else but fries! The American Mix Grill is another wholesome and hearty indulgence, served with sausages, ham, bacon and a sunny side up!

There’s Indian and Chinese here, too, and something for the health freaks to check out. breakfast starts as early as 7.30 am. Cereal, fresh fruit, yogurt and more is a great way to start your day, but if you’re heading to Mondy’s, do yourself justice and order a Chicken Mayo & Cheese Grilled!

Candies

When we have to make a plan to meet a friend coming into the city after a long time, our go-to is Candies. Rooted in Bandra for that’s where owner, Allan Pereira was born and raised, the café has been around for over 25 years with three locations to its name: Pali Hill, Union Park and Reclamation. Candies at Union Park is more for the takeaway days while Reclamation is for the intimate, dimly-lit meal or coffee with your thoughts for company.

Candies Pali Hill is at Mac Ronnells – the erstwhile café run by Pereira Sr way back when – showcasing a blend of Turkish tiles and handcrafted mosaics inclusive of figures such as Dalai Lama and The Beatles. The four-storey Portuguese-style villa is adorned with Moroccan lamps – there’s even a little lamp room and knickknacks from different corners of the world coupled with Parisienne paintings and vintage posters.

Candies can get packed to the tables on the weekends, even though there’s plenty of vertical space to take a seat in, surrounded by nature. The Room of Lamps offers you air-conditioned seating but when you have secluded and clean al fresco in a city like ours, you take it. You order from the snacks, rolls, sandwiches, burgers, wraps, pizzas, rotis, mini meals, salads, dessert, tea, coffee and juices, then take your tray up to your spot, or stay down if you choose, and converse like two kids in a candy shop – with glee.

Our choicest when dining at Candies comprise a handful from Mushroom & Cheese Omelette for breakfast to Lasagne Verdi/Bolognese at lunchtime. Malai Chicken Roti is creamy goodness and Quiche Lorraine soul-warming. The club sandwich is as classic as it gets, along with bread pudding.

Knead

There are puns on the word knead that you could throw around when dining at this Kala Ghoda café by a longtime culinary figure, Chef Moshe Shek. So do! And let the warm and friendly staff take care of all your ‘kneads’ as you pick up from the in-house deli and bakery. Marinated olives, pistachio pesto, French butter croissants with oodles of butter, the Real McCoy is what you can expect at Knead.

There are comfy loungers to chill in and tables and chairs to sit and dine at. Warm up with the Roast Mushroom & Pickled Mushroom Soup and move on to the Roast Pumpkin Cakes. Do a hummus date with a wide selection from spicy miso aubergine to eggs shakshouka or just the plain old delight, all served with pita as soft as a pillow. Flatbreads like the Spiced Labneh and the Grilled Alibaug Sandwich are scrumptious, the latter coming from the culinary school that Chef Moshe runs. You can order the Portobello Mushroom Pastry 20 minutes ahead and savour it fresh out of the oven. There’s an extensive array at Knead, but do narrow down on Lawn Tennis if you can. Green apple, Turkish cucumber, kale, spinach, celery and lime are slow-blended into this smoothie.

Smoke House Deli

We recall when we had hunger pangs at 11 pm post a lavish affair at The Penthouse of The St. Regis and were in a fix as to where to go for a wholesome meal that’s nearby. Where else but Smoke House Deli, Phoenix – a comfort spot we’ve been going back to for a while, one that we’re glad to see expand across the city and to other metros with 10 outlets established. In Bombay, our “favs” have been the Phoenix and Colaba delis, the latter a #delibythesea.

Riyaaz Amlani just knows what works, the formulae for a mass brand that hits the right notes, just like his Social. With SHD – established in 2011, albeit first in Delhi – it’s comfort food in big portions at VFM prices in quiet settings that don’t disturb you while you dine and chill out. There is artistry on the walls and on the plate, too. The Smoke House Charcuterie – a selection of house-cured meats and sausages made in-house with the help of a smoker – is one such dish that is a must-try. Vegetarians will delight in the Smoke Tomato & Brie sandwich in a five-seed malt with sun-dried tomato pâté. The Fried Chicken Burger is an indulgence worth giving in to and the Baconator as well, of oak-smoked bacon.

Laze your Sundays away with the Smoke House Deli Brunches, from 12-4 pm. Buckets of beer and flutes of champagne will flow. The food is an amalgamation of all things good and yum. Roasted Beetroot & Orange Salad with Feta, the Roast Pumpkin  Pâté., the Truffled Mac & Cheese, Peppercorn-crusted Filet Mignon and the Vegan Dark Chocolate Mousse are choices from the a la carte that you can savour on any day. There are ice-creams, sorbets and frozen yogurts, too.

Guru Kripa

The thing with iconic eateries that cater to all the masses, in droves, is that the proof is in the pudding. In the case of Guru Kripa at Sion, the proof has been in the dal pakwan first and foremost, then the samosa chole and the chole bhature, too, ever since its establishment in 1975 by the Late Vishindas Wadhwa. Students from colleges like SIES and professionals from the area alike flock most to this street fare joint for its pocket-friendly and highly taste-worthy food, with swift service so you’re not left waiting. This is what Bombay is all about, right!

Dal pakwan is the way to go at Guru Kripa, but only the early bird shall catch the worm. 7.30 am is when you get this Sindhi delicacy hot and fresh, and only till 9.30 am – runs out like hot cakes. There’s plenty more at this popular eatery which stays open till 11 pm, to cater to the varied tastes of Bombayites, from South Indian to sandwiches, chaat, pav bhaji and thalis. Pizzas and burgers are also rustled up and served for the “global” gourmand. Make sure you get a bowl of gulab jamuns to balance any spice kicks you may encounter.

Cafe Madras

Not too far from Guru Kripa is another crowd-puller, one that has serpentine queues from the wee hours on. Just the smell of the freshly brewed filtered coffee is enough to wake the senses. South Indian fare at Cafe Madras has been a Bombay staple since the (Gopal) Kamath family – now in the hands of sons, Devrath and Jaiprakash – from the 1940s.

Settle into this café with its basic ambience and traditional food that hits the spot. Piping hot sambar and chutney with a kick accompany the dosas, idlis, vadas and so on. The Madras Dahi Misal and the upma with sheera are delights you must gobble up here. A dosa that kicks it up a notch is the tuppa with extra clarified butter and spicy podi if you pick the Tuppa Podi. The appams with stew make for a wholesome, delicious meal when dining at lunch or dinner time as Madras is open till 10.30 pm. Closed on Mondays, note.