Page 158 - UpperCrust e-Magazine Third Quarter 2024

CALCUTTA CALLING

Malini Banerjee

YAYAvar Chicken Pata Asomiya Fish
Pora
Curry
Hyatt Centric Ballygunge Kolkata,
17, Garcha 1st Lane,
Kolkata 700019
Mob: 0 62923 07614
Meal for two: Approximately R3500 +
taxes, with alcohol

Imagine you are a nomad wandering through
every state of the subcontinent and tasting
its cuisine. YAYAvar, which means 'nomad'
is dedicated to that nomadic gourmand
sampling its way through India.
The 126-seater restaurant has a small
18-seater al fresco section and has muted grey
interiors offset with warm terracotta and
earth tones. Brick red sofas, cane furniture,
earthen pottery as knickknacks along with lots
of greenery give life to the space. The outdoor
section features terrazzo-lookalike table tops,
long dramatic beaten metal drop lights and a
high ceiling that brings in dazzling sunlight.
Its menu captures the essence of our
country’s highways, railways and popular
holiday destinations in its meal. Based in
Calcutta, we began with the dishes from the
closest destinations to our metro, such as
Ghanto Tarkari − an homage to a streetside
dish available on the road from Cuttack to
Balasore. It is a street-side take on a dahi
vada and alur dum chaat served with a side of
tomato chutney, raw mango chutney, rotis and
a mixed vegetable side called ghanto. Next up and served with a side of roti, toor dal and Executive Chef Sougata
was a trip west to Ajmer with Kadhi Kachori aloo chaat. The mutton curry is the classic Halder, Hyatt Centric
which included a deep-fried aloo pyaj kachori red mutton gravy, similar to mutton gravies
with yogurt curry and chilli pickles. From the of the eastern states. A tangy light refreshing
hills, they served an inventive Sha Phaley the Asomiya Fish Curry served with the fragrant
crisp-fried Tibetan treat that was filled with short-grained Gobindobhog rice was another
chicken, minced egg and cheese instead of favourite.
the more conventional filling of minced meat Bursting at the seams, we would have
and onions. been happy to skip desserts had it not been
For mains, we tried two more Odia for Hyatt Centric's GM Glen D Souza's firm
dishes including a Chicken Pata Pora and belief that to miss their house-made gelato,
a mutton curry. The Pata Pora, true to its in particular, their Red Cherry Cheesecake
name, includes a leaf-wrapped chicken gently gelato would be a crime. Now there was a
slow-cooked in a bright zingy masala paste criminal temptation we gladly gave in to.

156 | UPPERCRUST | JUL-SEP 2024