Page 67 - UpperCrust e-Magazine Third Quarter 2024

KOCHI | FOOD TRAILS

Thiyya cuisines and are known for their
quality as well as their middle-of-the-road
pricing. You can have a lavish meal for two
with your choice of fish and prawns for less
than Rs 2000.
I tried the Paragon at Lulu Mall and
was surprised at the crowds waiting to be
seated. It is not unusual to have to wait for
upto an hour for a table, particularly during
lunchtime. Their menu is extensive and
apart from their speciality Malabar cuisine
they also serve North Indian, Chinese and
Italian cuisines.
I, of course, was there to sample the
best they had in their speciality cuisine.
Our server was quick to point out to me
that their portions are large and so the best A traditional Kochi spread
I could do was try their seafood sampler.
With that he suggested I must try their so oily and flaky, almost having a steak-like uncommon to spot dolphins swimming
Kozhi Porichathu, which is Malabari masala- texture, that it is a must-try. past you while you are dining.
flavoured chicken deep-fried to perfection. The Raw Mango Prawn Curry with the Chef Meril Aricatt, the Executive Chef
The other must-have dish he recommended Malabar paratha was everything that food at the hotel and General Manager Sibi
was their Raw Mango Prawn Curry served does to make you happy. This was possibly Mathew, are perfect hosts. To make the
with Malabar paratha. the best Malabar paratha I have had on experience more memorable we took the
The seafood sampler started with my trip to Kerala. I believe for dishes like Taj speedboat from the Grand Hyatt to the
Chemmeen Pollichathu, which is medium- dosa and Malabar paratha, it is the scale at Taj Malabar. The journey took less than 10
sized prawns marinated with special masala which they are made which makes these minutes, which would have been at least
and deep-fried. Then, Koonthal Varattiyathu, dishes perfect. I have always found that the 45-minutes by road.A speedboat ride across
which is tender baby squid cooked with dosa at a 5-star hotel is never as good as the lake is a wonderful experience and being
ginger, garlic, onion and ground spices your roadside dosawala who is churning out picked up in your own private boat from
along with roasted coconut and curry possibly 150 to 200 dosas in 3 to 4 hours. one location to the other is a thing dreams
leaves. Next was Karimeen Pollichathu, The Malabar paratha at Paragon adds are made of. Travelling by boat across
again, which is Pearl Spot wrapped in nothing new to the ingredients, but it is so Kochi is not only practical but a romantic,
banana leaf and baked, and lastly, Chuttulli much more fluffy and flaky than anything memorable, and very unique, experience. I
Meen, which is a recipe handed down from else I had tried that it was a wonderful do hope the water ways around the lake will
ancient Jewish immigrants where king fish revelation. I am told by the locals that the be developed further, though.
is marinated in a mélange of pearl onions best Malabar paratha is either available at Our meal at Rice Boat was aptly titled
and green spices, and grilled. the Grand Hotel or at Paragon. Taste of Kerala. We started with Masala
The fried chicken, the squid, the prawn, The meal here is surprisingly reasonable Grilled Squid, which are squid rings
the king fish, the Pearl Spot were all with most dishes ranging between Rs 300- rubbed with ethnic spices and curry leaves
delightful. There is not a dish here which I Rs 500, which is quite a steal. Portions are followed by Tiger Prawns – Ularthiyathu
would not highly recommend. As this is the large and it is impossible for one person to (tossed with ginger, garlic, onions and
first time I was trying squid on this visit to finish everything. tomatoes). Both were done to perfection,
Kerala it was a wonderfully new addition to My last stop on my culinary pilgrimage and in this restaurant there is not only a
things that I had already tried. The roasted in Kochi was to the revered and often great emphasis on the quality of food, but
coconut and curry leaves had a wonderful called the ‘best restaurant in Kochi’ – the also on the presentation. Next, was the crab
depth of flavour as well as texture to this Rice Boat. Located at the Taj Malabar Hotel and coconut soup, which essentially was a
dish and the tenderness and sweetness of and designed to give the impression of a crab velouté with thyme and scallions. Not
the baby squid are very well balanced with traditional rice boat, this restaurant boasts a typically Malabari dish, but a sublimely
the garlic and the ground spices. The king views of the backwaters and the historic flavoured and very delicately balanced dish.
fish was prepared very differently to what I Mattancherry from its location on the Main courses included Meen Pollichathu,
had been eating before and again the fish is Wellington Island. During lunch it is not which is a standard in any meal you have in

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