Page 68 - UpperCrust e-Magazine Third Quarter 2024

FOOD TRAILS | KOCHI

What a fabulous view
Taj Malabar offers!

Rice Boat at Taj Malabar
Kochi. Here, they used the king fish in a Lobster Extravaganza Taj Malabar's Executive
very similar preparation like others where Chef Meril Aricatt
the fish is cooked in a banana leaf. The
Kerala Fish Curry had king fish cubes in
grounded coconut curry, served with rice,
idiyappam and Malabar paratha.
For dessert, we had the Karikku
Soufflé, which was essentially coconut milk
with whipped cream and malai. Again,
something very regional, very light and
very flavourful.
In vegetarian options they had the
typical rasam, vegetable stew, avial (mélange
of vegetables cooked with crushed coconut
and yogurt) and the stew is served with an dishes no restaurant I visited in Kochi cooking. I am accustomed to meeting
appam or idiyappam. could match. It is not gourmet cuisine but Michelin-star chefs or celebrity chefs,
A meal here is a curated experience, if you want to try what the locals eat, this however, here is someone who is a
presenting the best Kerala has to is the place. celebrity amongst chefs and amongst
offer in an intimate setting along the In the mid-range eating, which her peers, is recognised as someone who
backwaters, where service, presentation includes restaurants like Paragon, I think has done something spectacular for the
and authenticity of flavours and quality of Kochi has achieved something that most regional Malabar cuisine.
ingredients are the focus. other places struggle with. Good quality at One cannot get enough of the
Having eaten at other multiple moderate prices. There is no compromise variety of Malabar curries in Kerala, and
locations on this trip − and some of them in the quality of their raw ingredients despite Kerala Curry, appam, idiyappam
were just a quick fish curry and Malabar and they use high-quality fish for all and Malabar paratha being readily
paratha, and therefore do not find their preparations. available all over the country now, there
themselves in this review − I have noticed While there are multiple options to is yet something about eating a Malabar
that the quality of food across Kochi, choose from in the fine-dining category, paratha with Raw Mango Fish Curry sitting
particularly in the well-known and reputed I particularly liked eating at the Grand along the backwaters. Nothing matches
institutions, is of a high standard. Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty because they have that experience.
To sum it all up: Vellakanthari is a a very authentic chef in Chef Latha. She Eating out in Kochi is enough reason
different concept where the focus is on ensures that there is a certain earthiness, for one to visit this beautiful city. I could
home-style cooking with a variety of fish genuineness and passion infused in her go back again!

66 | UPPERCRUST | JUL-SEP 2024